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AFT, MU1IAY MAX"' 



3 8 



s-7 



VOYAGE 



HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP ALCESTE, 




ALONG THE 



y> 






COAST OF COItEA. 



TO 

THE ISLAND OF LEWCHEW 






ACCOUNT OF HER SUBSEQUENT SHIPWRECK. 



BY JOHN M'LEOD, SURGEON, 

OF THE ALCESTE. 



SECOND EDITION. 



LONDON: 
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET. 

1818. 



^"«^ DSsot 






rrinUA by W. CLOWES, NorthumberlanJ-court, Strand, London. 



W 



TO 

JAMES WOOD, ESQ. 

OF POTTER HILL, 

THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE INSCRIBED, 

AS A TESTIMONY 

OF THE HIGH RESPECT AND ESTEEM 

IN WHICH HE IS HELD 

BY THE AUTHOR. 



By trans*®? 



**w *4jK 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



The author of the following pages has attempted to 
narrate (in the best and shortest way he can) the occur- 
rences of a voyage rendered remarkable by a combina- 
tion of extraordinary events, and the circumstance of a 
communication with an interesting people, with whom, for 
the first time, Europeans have had any intercourse ; and he 
has ventured a few occasional remarks, precisely as they 
arose in his mind on the spot, and which more mature re- 
flection has not induced him to alter. He is aware that his 
thoughts, as well as his mode of expressing them, may be 
liable to comment ; but he hopes that those who are mighty 
in criticism will be merciful in censure, and not visit 
with asperity that which is humble in pretension. 

His acknowledgments are due to Lieut. Dwarris 
for four Drawings, very correctly portraying the costume 
of the Coreans and the people of Lewchew. 



DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES. 



Toface 
Portrait of Captain Maxwell Title-Page 

Islanders of Sir James Hall's Group 42 

Corean Chief and Attendants 44 

Lewchewan Chief and Attendants « 71 

Garden of the Temple at Lewchew 76 

Fort Maxwell 251 



part/>j e 





L 
' H. M. S. ALCESTE 



TO 



CHINA 



CHAPTER I. 

Voyage from England to the Brazils, the Cape oj 
Good Hope, Java, and the Gulf of ' Pe-tche-lee. 

I HE British Government, on the repre- 
sentation of the Court of Directors of the 
East-India Company, respecting the trade 
with China, decided, with the view of re- 
lieving that branch of its commerce from 
the increasing vexatious impositions of the 
local authorities of Canton, on the mea- 
sure of sending an embassy to the court of 
Pekin. As on a former occasion of a si- 
milar kind, a distinguished nobleman had 
been selected to fill the situation of Em- 
bassador Extraordinary from the King of 

B 



2 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. ALCESTE 

Great Britain to the Emperor of China, 
who carried out with him a numerous 
suite, composed of gentlemen well skilled 
in every branch of natural knowledge, 
with many curious and costly presents ; 
so it was now determined to leave no- 
thing short that couJd contribute to the 
splendour and respectability of the pre- 
sent embassy. The Right Hon. Lord Am- 
herst (who had already filled the high 
situation of Embassador at the court of 
Sicily) was appointed to conduct this dif- 
ficult and delicate mission. Mr. Henry 
Ellis (formerly employed in a successful 
negotiation with the King of Persia) was 
named secretary of embassy, with dormant 
powers to act as Minister Plenipoten- 
tiary, should any accident to the Em- 
bassador render that circumstance ne- 
cessary. The Hon. JerTery Amherst, as 
page ; Mr. Hayne, as private secretary ; 
Mr. Abel, as surgeon and naturalist; the 
Rev. John Griffith, as chaplain ; Mr. 
Havell, as artist ; and Dr. Lynn, with 
Mr. Marrige, Mr. Poole, and some others 



TO CHINA. 



to fill the respective departments, consti- 
tuted the suite of his excellency. Lieut. 
Cooke, of the Royal Marines, was also 
attached to the embassy, on its landing in 
China, the guard being selected from that 
corps. The Hon. Mr. Abbot, Messrs. 
Martin, and Somerset, were likewise added 
to it at this period. 

Many valuable presents, supplied, as on 
the former occasion, by the East-India 
Company, for the emperor and his minis- 
ters, consisting of specimens of our im- 
proved manufactures, made by the first 
hands, were also prepared. The command 
of the naval part of the expedition was in- 
trusted to Captain Murray Maxwell ; and 
the Alceste, a frigate of forty-six guns, 
was fitted up for the reception of the Em- 
bassador and suite. His Majesty's brig 
Lyra, commanded by Capt. Basil Hall, 
and the General Hewitt Indiaman, by Capt. 
Campbell, accompanied the Alceste, the 
latter carrying out the presents. 

On the 9th of February, 1816, the ships 
sailed from Spithead, and soon cleared the 
Channel, with a favourable breeze, which 

b2 



4 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

continued with us to Madeira, where we 
arrived on the 18th. In Funchal road we 
found the Phaeton, having Sir Hudson and 
Lady Lowe, with their suite, on board, in 
their way to St. Helena ; and the Niger, 
with Mr. Bagot, on his mission to America. 
Our stay here was only twelve hours, and, 
in the evening, we pursued our course to 
the south-westward. The weather becom- 
ing hourly warmer, our people, who had 
been badly clothed, and had suffered a good 
deal from the severity of the cold in fitting 
out the ship, now began to thaw a little : 
things were beginning to find their proper 
places in the ship ; and those unaccustomed 
to the rolling motion had, by this time, ac- 
quired their sea-legs. On the 4th March, in 
the evening, at the moment of crossing the 
equinoctial line, the voice of some one, as 
from the sea, announced himself as Nep- 
tune's eldest son, and, after putting the usual 
interrogatories, added, that his father being 
a little indisposed, and rather squeamish 
about exposing himself to the night air, 
had deferred his visit until the morning, 
when he would personally call on board 



TO CHINA. 



to inspect the strangers who were now en- 
tering his dominions. The son of Neptune 
seemed now to sink again into the deep. 
In the morning, his godship, agreeable to 
promise, appeared, seated in his car (a 
gun-carriage), with his trident and other 
insignia, attended by Amphitrite, and all 
his usual train of inferior deities. He was 
received by a strange-looking guard of his 
own, the band striking up " Rule Britan- 
nia!" After paying his respects to the 
Embassador, the Captain, and the rest, the 
novices, of whom -there were not a few, 
were forthwith shaved, according to a 
practice immemorial, with a rusty iron 
hoop, full of notches ; and the lather being 
washed off, by playing the fire-engine in 
their faces, they were then wiped dry with 
a dirty swab. Much mirth and good hu- 
mour prevailed; and a double allowance 
of grog finished the ceremony. We expe- 
rienced none of the calms usual near the 
line, and nothing of moment occurred until 
we reached the lat. 20° 4" north, long. 31° 
52" west, on the 16th March, when the Lyra 
and Hewitt were directed to make the best 



6 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTl 

of their way to the Cape of Good Hope, 
whilst the Alceste proceeded to the capital 
of the Brazils, where we arrived on the 21st 
of that month. 

All the bold, as well as beautiful, features 
of nature, have conjoined to enrich the 
scenery of Rio Janeiro. The luxuriant de- 
scriptions of former travellers are by no 
means exaggerated, for it would indeed be 
difficult to exceed the truth in portraying 
the sublimity and grandeur of such a 
scene as presents itself on entering the har- 
bour. The numerous islets appearing on 
this extensive sheet of water, — its richly- 
wooded banks, rising like an amphitheatre 
on either hand, studded with villages and 
country seats, — added to the distant view 
of lofty and picturesque mountains, — form, 
altogether, a very unusual and noble land- 
scape. 

The death of the queen, which hap- 
pened the day previous to our arrival, at 
the good old age of eighty-two, had rather 
cast a gloom over the city of St. Sebastian. 
The batteries and ships fired five-minute 
guns during the whole day and night; the 



TO CHINA. 



Alceste, Indefatigable, and a Spanish fri- 
gate, following this example ; displaying 
also the usual exterior marks of grief, by 
hoisting the colours half-staff high 7 and top- 
ping the yards. The officers likewise wore 
crape ; and, from a positive order being 
issued to all the inhabitants to go into 
mourning, (which none dared, under the 
severest penalties, disobey,) the prices of all 
black articles felt a sudden and enormous 
increase. 

The government of the Brazils seems 
perfectly despotic ; and it is painful to 
see even Englishmen lose the natural free- 
dom of their character under such domi- 
nion. Some, who from long residence had 
imbibed the feelings of the Portuguese, 
would, in answering any question relative 
to public affairs, look cautiously around, 
to see who was near them, and then whisper 
their reply. 

The barbarous system, however, which 
formerly imposed the most annoying re- 
strictions on strangers, and prevented their 
landing, unless guarded like felons, has 
been happily overturned by the circum- 



8 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

stances attending the arrival of Sir Sidney 
Smith with a British squadron, who could 
not be expected to submit to this kind of 
treatment; and consequently, a more 
rational and liberal state of affairs in this re- 
spect, has been gradually brought about. 

The prince (now the king) during the 
period her majesty lay in state, was shut 
up, according to their usage, not to be seen 
by any but his chamberlain. 

Swarms of priests occupied every avenue 
to the palace, and hung in clusters on the 
staircases. St. Sebastian seems to be a 
soil, in which these members of the autos 
dafc still thrive well. 

With them the monastic discipline seems 
to be far less austere, than that which is ex- 
ercised over the poor nuns of the convent 
of Santa Teresa, who are said to be so de- 
tached from all former friends and con- 
nexions in this world, that even the death 
of a father or a mother is not communicated 
by name ; it being merely notified that a 
parent of one of them is this day dead, and 
they are called upon collectively to pray 
for the soul of the unknown deceased. 



TO CHINA. 



The Brazils have lately been raised from 
the state of a mere colony to the dignity of 
a kingdom ; and the residence of the court 
has conferred still more substantial advan- 
tages on it, arising from the emigration of 
the chief nobility from Portugal, and the 
transfer of their wealth to this country. 
Its commerce has of late years increased 
to a great degree, chiefly, however, under 
the direction of English houses. 

The return of the court to the mother 
country, it is thought, would be the signal 
of revolt ; for it is not probable the Brazils 
would long remain in their present fettered 
state, whilst colonies in all directions around 
them are freeing themselves from the oppres- 
sion of the mother country. The want of 
the usual public attentions of saluting the 
flag of a foreign power might have been ac- 
counted for under the present circum- 
stances of the court; but it was singular 
(considering, more particularly, our late 
relations with Portugal) that a house for 
the accommodation of the Embassador and 
suite, during their short stay, and which 
had been granted to the former embassy, 



10 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

should have been refused in the present 
instance. The hospitality, however, of 
Mr. Chamberlayne, the British minister 
here, amply supplied this deficiency. The 
places of public amusement were of course 
shut; and the only spectacle, during our 
stay, was the funeral of the queen, which 
took place by torch-light ; all the military 
that could be collected, both horse and 
foot, lining the streets (which were illumi- 
nated) from the palace to the convent of 
Ajuda. The hearse and state-coaches were 
drawn up at the grand entrance, covered 
with black cloth, and near them the chief 
mourners, who were eight of the nobles, on 
horseback. Their dress was the ancient 
Portuguese costume of mourning. Each had 
a large broad-brimmed hat, rather slouch- 
ing down upon the shoulders ; a long black 
cloak, or robe, with the star of some order 
affixed to it ; conveying to the mind of an 
English spectator the whimsical combina- 
tion of a coal-heaver, a priest, and a knight. 
The king, accompanied by the two elder 
princes, attended the coffin to the principal 
porch, and saw it deposited in the hearse, 



TO CHINA. 11 

when the whole cavalcade drove off, and 
the body was interred in the convent, with 
the usual religious ceremonies. The royal 
family next day appeared at the balconies 
of the palace ; on which occasion it is usual 
for the Portuguese to stand uncovered in 
the square opposite ; and, if any of the 
royal carriages are met on the road, the 
passengers on horseback must dismount, 
and even kneel. 

Neither of their Portuguese majesties can 
themselves be considered as regular beauties; 
but the princesses are good figures, and cer- 
tainly, upon the whole, handsome women. 
Don Pedro, their eldest son, promises to be 
a man of some spirit. Much indolence 
seems to exist among the inhabitants, and 
they are said still to possess their charac- 
teristic contempt of all reading; so that a 
publisher of books in the Brazils would 
probably earn but a lean livelihood. This 
country produces all the various fruits of the 
warmer climates ; such as pine-apples, 
oranges, limes, mangoes, guavas, melons, 
bananas, &c. ; the tea-shrub still conti- 
nues to be an article of growth, under the 



12 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

direction of some Chinese accustomed to 
manage it ; and it is to be hoped they may 
succeed in extending and improving its 
cultivation. The slave-trade still exists 
to its fullest extent ; and this class of the 
population, however useful they may be, are 
certainly not ornamental ; being the ugliest 
race of negroes that can be collected from 
the African coast — Gaboons, Congos, and 
Angolas. Our West-India islands having 
been generally supplied with Fantees, from 
the Gold Coast, with Eyeos, and Ashantees, 
who are a much finer-looking people ; this 
circumstance, added, perhaps, to their im- 
proved condition, their better clothing, and 
general treatment, gives a slave of Jamaica a 
far less degraded appearance than one in 
this country. Yet, though the situation of 
the former is much ameliorated (and un- 
doubtedly superior to his native state in 
Africa), it is unfortunate that the first Eu- 
ropean settlers of colonies, had not, instead 
of hunting down and oppressing the na- 
tives, trained them to habits of industry ; 
when the term slavery, so revolting to hu- 
manity even under the most favourable 



TO CHINA. 13 

circumstances, so contrary to reason and 
natural rio;ht, need never have been known. 
Our East-India possessions, and late occu- 
pation of Java, sufficiently demonstrate the 
practicability of this system. 

They do Buonaparte, here, the honour of 
being very much afraid of him ; and keep a 
bright eye to windward, lest he should break 
adrift from St. Helena, and come down 
upon them before the wind. This silly ap- 
pearance of fear is something like the 
weakness of ordering his name never to 
be mentioned, than which, perhaps, 
nothing tends more to keep up his con- 
sequence. 

This part of the Brazils is naturally hot 
during the months of December, January, 
and February ; but (more especially as the 
southern are found to be comparatively 
colder than corresponding northern lati- 
tudes,) it enjoys, during our summer, a sort 
of tropical winter, and is not considered an 
unhealthy climate. 

The town of St. Sebastian, without any 
public edifice worthy of notice, is regularly 
built, and, from the late influx of inha- 









14 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

bitants, is daily extending its limits ; but 
its police is bad, and the streets filthy. 
Although this country produces plenty of 
beef, yet, from want of care and manage- 
ment, it is such as would be considered 
carrion in England ; and in few parts of 
the world is there less accommodation for 
travellers, there being only a few casas, or 
inns, of the most wretched description. 

The Brazils display an inexhaustible field 
for the researches of the naturalist, for no 
where else can the objects of his inquiry be 
more varied or multiplied. The state of so- 
ciety here is represented, by those whose 
Ions residence and close intercourse afford 
them the means of judging, as extremely 
demoralized. The men, in their exterior 
appearance, are a squalid, hysterical, grim- 
looking set; but the ladiespthough generally 
little, and dark-coloured, are not deficient 
in beauty or expression of countenance; 
they want, however, that elegance of gait 
and graceful walk, peculiar to the Spa- 
niards. They are said to be more atten- 
tive to the external forms of decorum than 
to the essential practice of modesty ; but 



TO CHINA. 15 

this, if true, may " depend/' as was sug- 
gested by an elegant writer of the last 
embassy, " on the example of the men f 
for it would scarcely be reasonable to expect 
the perfection of female morals, where every 
manly virtue is unknown. At least three- 

urths of the world are in a slate of bar- 
barism where women have no character at 
all; being either immured in seraglios, 
or the mere slaves and play-things of 
their savage lords ; but among those na- 
tions in that portion of it which has a 
claim to civilization, where they are al- 
lowed to have minds, and assume their just 
rank, the slightest glance will shew, that 
when honour, intelligence, and worth, are 
held in most esteem by the one sex, they 
are uniformly rewarded by corresponding 
good qualities in the other. 

The ship having recruited her supply of 
very excellent water*, and other matters 



* Captain Cook complained of the water here being 
very bad. — At that time, perhaps, the aqueduct was not 
so extensively covered, and secured from the admission of 
impurities, as at present. 



16 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

adjusted, we took our leave of the American 
shore on the 31st of March, steering south- 
easterly until we got from 36° to 39° 
south, where we found the prevailing 
westerly winds. Keeping in the usual 
tract for ships crossing the Southern At- 
lantic, we passed the islands of Tristan 
d'Acunha, about fifty miles to the north- 
ward of them. The wind continuing fa- 
vourable, we saw the Table Mountain on 
the 18th of April, and anchored on the same 
day in the bay. We arrived at a gay time, 
in the middle of horse-racing and balls. 
An India fleet touched here, homeward 
bound, one of the ships having on board 
the Countess of Loudon and family, on 
their passage to England. Cape Town has 
now become almost an English place, and 
is too well known to require any descrip- 
tion here. 

As strangers, on first landing here, we 
were forcibly struck by the remarkable 
difference of complexion in the female part 
of the society, compared with the brunettes 
we had just left at Rio Janeiro ; and an 
Englishman is probably the more inclined 



TO CIITNA. 17 

to esteem the beauty of the Cape ladies 
from its great resemblance to that which 
he is accustomed to admire at home. It 
is hinted, however, that this resemblance 
exists chiefly during youth, and that, in 
their maturer years, they are apt (from 
sedentary habits and want of exercise) to 
acquire a peculiar Hottentotish obesity. 
But this, perhaps, is only said by ill- 
natured people. 

The ship having gone round to Simon's 
Bay, and the necessary refitment being 
completed, his lordship embarked at this 
place, with the usual marks of attention 
on the 6th of May, and we proceeded on 
our voyage. From 38° to 40° south, we 
found our expected winds ; but, as winter 
was far advanced in this hemisphere, (latter 
end of May, and beginning of June,) the 
weather was cold, bleak, and boisterous, 
with a heavy sea. On the 24th May we made 
the islands of St. Paul and Amsterdam. 
Smoke was seen, as we approached, issu- 
ing from the crevices of the latter. It is 
here where the hot springs so nearly adjoin 
to the great salt-water basin, as to afford the 

c 



18 VOYAGE OF H. M.S. ALCESTE 

singular exhibition of catching fish in the 
latter, and boiling them in the former, with- 
out taking them off the hook, and within 
reach of the rod. The state of the weather, 
which was very rough, and the time of the 
evening, did not allow us to verify this fact, 
but there is no doubt of its truth. An im- 
mense crater (now apparently converted into 
a sort of harbour, the sea having flowed into 
it) appears on the eastern side of the island. 
Having got sufficiently to the eastward 
for the purpose of fetching Java with the 
usual tropical winds, we began to haul 
to the northward and eastward, the wea- 
ther of course becoming daily warmer; 
and, on the 8 th of June, we saw Java Head, 
and anchored next day in Anjeri road, 
where we found the Lyra at anchor, and 
saw the Hewitt off Cape Nicholas, on 
her way to Batavia, they having only 
arrived two days before us *. This pas- 



* The superior sailing of the frigate enabled us to 
touch at Rio Janeiro, without in any way delaying the 
general passage ; as, notwithstanding this, she nearly 
overtook her consorts at the Cape. The same was the 



TO CHINA. 19 

sage was extraordinary for its rapidity, for 
in ninety -two days, under sail, the ship had 
traversed about fourteen thousand miles, 
and visited every quarter of the globe. 

After staying a day or two at the village 
of Anjeri (where we were amused with the 
ceremony of a Javanese wedding,) Colonel 
Yule, the resident of the Bantam district, 
accompanied by Mr. M'Gregor, waited on 
the Embassador to pay their respects ; and 
having provided the necessary accommo- 
dation for his lordship and suite to pro- 
ceed overland to Batavia, they all set out 
on their journey thither. During our short 
stay here, the king, or sultan, of Ban- 
tam, died; and his uncle (the nearest 
heir to the sovereignty) refused to accept 
the title, preferring to live in humble retire- 
ment The Alceste, having completed 
her water, sailed also for Batavia, as she 
had brought out duplicate despatches for 
the evacuation of the island of Java. The 



case here, though she remained ten days behind, being 
able to afford them, in such a run, a start of 1000, or 
1500 miles. 

c 2 



20 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

Lyra, in the mean time, had been sent on 
to China, with a communication from Lord 
Amherst to Sir G. Staunton. 

On the 21st June we sailed from Batavia, 
with the General Hewitt ; saw the island of 
Lucepara on the 23d, and entered the 
straits of Banca. Our voyage up the 
China sea presented nothing unusual. On 
the 9th of July we met His Majesty's ship 
Orlando, and received intelligence of the 
motions of our coadjutors at Macao. We 
joined them at anchor near the Grand 
Lemma on the following clay, and found 
along with the Lyra, the Discovery, and 
Investigator, two surveying ships belonging 
to the Company, having on board Sir G. 
Staunton, and some other gentlemen * be- 
longing to the factory, whose knowledge 
of the Chinese language rendered them 
necessary as interpreters. 

The apparent reason of choosing this 
rendezvous, was to be free from the im- 
pertinence of the Canton official people, 



* Messrs. Morrison, Manning, Toone, Davis, and 
Pearson. 



TO CHINA. 21 

who might naturally be expected to thwart 
the measures, and throw every possible im- 
pediment in the way of the embassy. 
Circumstances occasioning the delay of a 
day or two, the ships passed on to an an- 
chorage among the Hong Kong islands ; 
where the Anjeri water, not being deemed 
good, was changed for that which fell from 
the rocks, and was certainly uncontaminated 
by any vegetable matter, for few places 
present a more barren aspect than these 
islands. They are also called the Ladrones, 
from being the haunts of pirates ; and for 
such a purpose their situation is extremely 
well adapted. Here a message arrived, 
stating the emperor's pleasure that the em- 
bassy should be received as in the former 
instance ; and that the necessary orders had 
been sent to the ports of the Eastern and 
Yellow Seas for that purpose. 

On the 13th July the squadron (four ships 
and the brig) sailed ; and, coasting along 
the provinces of Quang-tung and Fokien, 
passed through the Straits of Formosa, and 
entered the Tung Hai, or Eastern Sea. 



22 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

The breeze altered its direction occasion- 
ally, but was always favourable ; and, pass- 
ing out of sight of the Chusan islands, we 
saw the land to the eastward, which we at 
that time conceived to be the south-west 
point of Corea. On the 24th we made 
Staunton's island, and Capes Gower and 
Macartney, on the south-east part of the 
Shan-tung promontory; and, the next day, 
rounding close the north-east point, we 
stood towards the Gulph of Pe-tche-lee. 
The country here had an extremely rugged 
and sterile look. On the 26th we passed 
through the Mee-a-tau islands, and steered 
to the mouth of the White (or North) 
River *, despatching the Lyra a-head, to 
announce the approach of the squadron. 

An address was now publicly read by 
Lord Amherst, to all the individuals who 
were to be attendants on the embassy, 
touching the great necessity of maintaining 



* It is doubtful whether Pei means white or north ; 
most probably the latter; as Pei or Pe-kin signifies 
Northern Court. 



TO CHINA. 23 

the strictest regularity and propriety of con- 
duct in their intercourse with the Chinese, 
so as to avoid every cause of offence or dis- 
agreement; and laying down general re- 
gulations for their conduct in all respects. 

During our passage up the Yellow Sea 
the weather was remarkably serene and 
fine, and we experienced none of the fogs 
which usually hang over the shallower parts 
of the ocean. 

We anchored, on the 28th, not many 
miles distant from the mouth of the river ; 
but the land is here so very low, that the 
mast-heads of the junks in the river, and 
the tops of the houses only of the village 
of Ta-coo, were visible from the ship. It 
would appear that the ships had entirely out- 
stripped the expectations of the Chinese ; 
for they had no idea of seeing them so soon, 
or that they should not have heard of them 
in their passage up. Such rapidity of 
movement never entered into their concep- 
tions ; for they, in fact, had scarcely heard 
of them at one end of their empire, when 
they found them at the other. 



24 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

The viceroy of this province (Pe-tche-lee) 
had been for some offence dismissed from 
his office; and his successor, having not 
yet left Pekin, it was not until the 4th Aug. 
that two duly-authorized mandarins of rank 
(Chang and Yin) came on board to pay 
their respects to the Embassador, and to 
give the necessary directions for the dis- 
embarkation of the presents. To those 
who had seen, for the first time, the Chi- 
nese costume, these mandarins had a very 
strange appearance. — On a back view, 
their short jacket, or gown, with their crape 
petticoats, gave them the look of bulky old 
women ; but, in confronting them, their 
clumsy boots and " beards forbade the in- 
terpretation/' Here also we observed their 
clerks, or men of letters, distinguished by 
twoenormous claws on theirleft hand, which 
render that limb in a great degree useless 
to them. The fishermen in this vicinity, 
(almost within a hundred miles of the capi- 
tal,) were literally naked, — even without a 
fig-leaf. This sort of indecency we were 
little prepared to meet, amongst a people 



TO CHINA. 25 

who affect to be so outrageously decorous 
as to discourage the art of sculpture, 
because it displays too distinctly the shape 
and lineaments of the human body. 

Chang was a civil, Yin a military, man- 
darin ; and they had, as usual, the title of 
Ta-zhin (or great man) added to their 
names. They were saluted on approach- 
ing the ship with seven guns each, and 
received with a guard. Every body was 
in full dress ; and it could not be said of 
this, as of the last embassy, that there was 
any want of splendour in this respect. 
After a conference, in some degree cere- 
monious, and partly for arranging future 
proceedings, they partook of a banquet 
in the captain's cabin, and then returned 
to the shore. Quang, the Chin-chae, im- 
perial commissioner, or legate, (as he has 
been variously termed,) holding a superior 
rank to either of the others *, being ready to 



* The person holding such an office as this, under 
the great seal, obtains a kind of temporary rank, entitling 
him, for the time, to take precedence even of the vice- 



26 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

receive the Embassador on shore, his lord- 
ship and the gentlemen of the embassy 
took their leave of us for awhile, landing 
in great state on the 9th of August ; the 
squadron being dressed in colours, the 
standard flying, the yards manned, and a 
salute of nineteen guns fired from each ship. 
They proceeded into the river attended by 
a number of Chinese junks, and by our 
boats in regular order. During the time 
we remained at this place, presents of bul- 
locks, vegetables, rice, tea, garlic, and other 
refreshments were, according to usage, sent 
off to the ships, but by no means in great 
abundance. Several of the bullocks were 
brought alongside dead, having been 
drowned in the bottom of the boats, or died 
otherwise in their passage off. This, how- 
ever, was not meant as disrespect or inci- 
vility, for they make no distinction them- 
selves between an animal that is killed by 



roy of a province, although he may have an inferior 
button or ball on his cap, and be a mandarin of lower 
order in the state. 



TO CHINA. 27 

the butcher, and one which dies naturally ; 
and in this way they eat dogs, cats, rats, 
and, in fact, all manner of carrion and 
vermin. 

In this respect, therefore, they made no 
strangers of us, for they gave us their own 
family fare. 






28 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 



CHAP. II. 



The ships visit Chinese Tartar/), the Provinces 
of Pe-tche-lee and Shantung, and examine 
the Coast of Corea. 

IT was now determined, by the senior 
officer, that the Lyra, attended by the In- 
vestigator, should take a southerly direction 
in the Gulf, whilst the Alceste and Dis- 
covery were to proceed to the north, a cer- 
tain rendezvous being pointed out for our 
meeting again, to which the General Hewitt 
was also directed. 

On the 11th we weighed, and stood to 
the north-eastward ; the Discovery in com- 
pany : the Lyra and Investigator to the 
southward. On the 13th saw the Sha-loo- 
poo-tien Islands, extending from north- 
west by north to west by south, distant 
about five leagues. We coasted along the 



TO CHINA. 29 

western shore of the Gulf of Lea-tun g, 
hitherto unexplored by any European ship; 
and found the land, as we advanced, be- 
came more and more mountainous. About 
noon, on the 14th, in latitude 39° 29' N. 
longitude 120° & E., the great wall of China 
opened to the view, bearing north-west 
by west, its nearest and lowest point being 
then distant about six or seven leagues ; 
but we approached it closer in the after- 
noon. 

Rising from the sea, this immense bar- 
rier passed over the first or lowest hill, and, 
mounting the second, was seen stretching 
to the right, in our point of view, ob- 
liquely towards its summit ; then on the 
third and still higher land, it inclined to 
the left, making an angle with the last 
range ; and, ultimately ascending the 
highest and most distant mountain, it was 
there lost. It extends for about fifteen 
hundred miles, and is carried equally over 
mountains and rivers. — " It is said not to 
be more than five-and -twenty feet high, 
flanked with towers at short distances, but 



30 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

of sufficient breadth for several horsemen 
to travel easily abreast. Report says, that 
one-third of the men in China, capable of 
labour, were employed in its construction, 
and that it was finished in the space of five 
years/' The opportunity of surveying this 
extraordinary structure, which, for more 
than twenty ages, has been deemed one of 
the greatest wonders of the world, afford- 
ed, more especially in this unexpected way, 
from the deck of a British man-of-war, the 
most pleasing sensations. Whether it is 
considered, as it is by some, a mighty ef- 
fort of human industry, or, as by others, a 
monument of laborious folly, still it is an 
amazing object, not only from its im- 
mense extent, but on account of its great 
antiquity ; and, from being so seldom vi- 
sible to an European eye, to have beheld 
it, even at this distance, was a high grati- 
fication of curiosity. Beyond the wall is a 
remarkable head-land, very much resem- 
bling Cape Sicie, a notorious place, near 
Toulon. The wind heading us here, we 
stood across, about sun-set, toward the 



TO CHINA. 



31 



coast of Chinese Tartary ; and on the 15th, 
in the evening, anchored in a bay * shel- 
tered by winds from the north-west to 
south, but open to the southward and west- 
ward, lat. 39° 33' N., long. 121° 19' E. 
We found here a cascade of water gushing 
from the rock, which was excellent. 

The natives, who most probably had 
never seen any ships of our class before, 
crowded down next morning on the beach, 
but shewed no inclination to come on 
board. Indeed the people here seemed to 
be less amphibious than those generally 
found on sea-coasts ; few fishing or other 
boats were to be seen, although a very 
large and fine harbour, for vessels of twelve 
or fifteen feet water, extended inland round 
a point from the head of the bay. 

The first officer who wandered up to the 
villages, about two miles from the watering- 
place, was nearly devoured by the curiosity 
of the inhabitants. 

Being seated beneath a tree, every part 
of his dress underwent the strictest scru- 

* Named Ross Bay. 



32 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

tiny, from the shirt-frill to the shoes ; but 
the anchor-buttons seemed most to attract 
attention, for they would refuse a dollar, 
and gladly accept a button, for any thing. 
The women here had, universally, small 
feet, all who were seen (and on the first 
morning every woman in the village made 
her appearance) being crippled. This we 
by no means expected to have found so far 
on the Tartar side of the great wall. 

But these people are, in fact, completely 
Chinese ; the language, dress, and religion 
of that country evidently prevailing: and 
they appeared to differ in no material re- 
spect from those we afterwards saw in the 
province of Shan-tung, except that they 
were less rude and uncivil. No public 
officer, or man of any rank, made his ap- 
pearance to inquire into the motives of our 
arrival. They were remarkably neat in 
their houses and gardens ; and there was 
an air of comfort about their villages, not 
always to be found in the more civilized 
parts of Europe. The face of the country 
is mountainous, and extremely denuded of 
wood ; not a tree being visible, except in 



TO CHINA. 33 

the immediate vicinity of their dwellings. 
The hills had the appearance of sheep- 
feeding downs in England ; and the soil, 
as far as we could penetrate, was excel- 
lent, and a good deal cultivated ; the holcus 
sorghum appearing a prominent object. 

Many deep fissures or gulleys were ob- 
served on the sides of the mountains, occa- 
sioned by the torrents from the melting- 
snow in summer ; for, although this part of 
the country is in the same parallel as the 
north of Italy or south of France, and was 
now (in August) very warm, yet the wintry 
season must be extremely cold, from the 
general situation and appearance of the 
country, and the bleak Avinds blowing over 
the uncultivated wilds to the northward of 
it. The rocks here were composed of a 
very ponderous sort of stone, evidently 
containing a great proportion of iron ; and 
some slate was observed. There would ap- 
pear to be some town of commercial im- 
portance situate at the head of the Gulf^ 
from the number of junks we saw passing 
up and down. Some matchlocks were no- 
ticed at this place, but they were merely in 



34 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

the hands of individuals, as fowling-pieces ; 
for no military people made their appear- 
ance. We were unable to procure a supply 
of fresh beef; — not from want of cattle, 
but they could not comprehend the value of 
Spanish dollars; this coin, of such universal 
circulation, being melted down, the mo- 
ment it gets into the hands of a Chinese of 
Canton. 

Having completed our water, we weighed 
on the 19th, and steered along-shore to the 
southward. At four in the afternoon, we 
saw a considerable town, lying in a hollow 
between two red cliffs, the neighbourhood 
immediately around it being rather fine, 
and better wooded than usual. It seemed a 
place of some trade, and a number of junks 
were lying at anchor in the roads. The 
narrow promontory which here extends into 
the Yellow Sea, and forms the eastern 
boundary of the Gulf of Lea-tung, was, 
from its resemblance to a sabre, named the 
Regent's Sword: the south end of it is the 
extreme Tartar point, and was called Cape 
Charlotte, in honour of her royal highness 
the princess. 



TO CHINA. 35 

Leopold's Isle lies a little to the north- 
west of this cape. 

The coast along this shore from our an- 
chorage was not unlike that from Plymouth 
Sound to the Start. Next morning (20th), 
steering southerly, we passed through a 
cluster of islands (nearly opposite and not 
very far distant from theMee-a-taus), which 
were named the Company's Group. The 
space between them and Cape Charlotte, 
St. George's Channel ; that through which 
we had formerly sailed, Leadenhall- Passage ; 
Ried's Rock and Grant's Island were also 
names appropriated on this occasion*. Soon 
after we saw the Mee-a-tau Islands ; and, in 
the afternoon, passed the city of Ten-cheu- 
foo, at which Lord Macartney, in the last 
embassy, touched. It looks very well from 
the sea, but the wall seems of much greater 
extent than is necessary for the town. We 
stood on to the eastward, and entered, in 
the evening, the bay or harbour of Kin- 
san-seu or Zew-a-tau. The clear and 



# This range naturally divides the Gulf of Pe-tche-lee 
from the Yellow Sea. 

D 2 



36 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

accurate description of it, by Sir Erasmus 
Gower, enabled the Alceste to proceed in 
without the least hesitation or difficulty. 
Here we found the General Hewitt. Capt. 
Campbell had communicated with the 
town of Ten-cheu-foo. There are two 
towns on the peninsula, forming the north- 
west side of the harbour, and one on the 
opposite shore. They have no fortifica- 
tions here; at least none deserving that 
name. The people appeared extremely 
gross and boorish, and we enjoyed the hap- 
piness of being crowded with them from 
daylight till dark, when they always went 
away without the least expression of thanks 
for civilities shewn them. We here noticed 
that all the females, high and low, had 
small feet, which is by no means the case 
in the southern provinces, especially about 
Canton. At the latter place, among the 
middling and lower classes, the feet are al- 
lowed to remain in their proper state, un- 
less the girl promises to be handsome, in 
which case she is crippled, in order to give 
the finishing touch to her beauty, and with 
the view of preparing her for the mandarin 



TO CHINA. 37 

market, where small feet bring a higher 
price, and she occasionally, also, obtains 
some interest or favour for her parents 
through the connexion. 

They walk, or rather totter along, like 
one shuffling on her heels only, without 
putting the fore part of the foot on the 
ground ; and, in moving quick, they not 
unfrequently tumble down, when they must 
get up again the best way they can ; for, 
Chinese gallantry was never observed to 
extend so far as to afford any help on such 
an occurrence. Some more cautious, were 
seen to move about, supporting themselves 
by the walls of the houses. Girls, from 
early infancy to eight or nine years old, 
were carried about in arms, their feet being 
too tender, during the first years of this 
absurd and cruel operation, to enable them 
to bear their weight ; the four smaller toes 
being turned down under the sole, the 
whole foot and ancle cramped, and the 
growth impeded by tight bandages, and a 
small shoe, which is generally again en- 
closed in a larger one. The pain and ir- 
ritation excited by this horrid process, as 



38 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

well as the want of exercise, evidently in- 
jures their general health, for all the female 
children had a sickly pallid look. It 
would be as difficult to account for the 
origin of this barbarous practice, as that 
of squeezing the waists of Englishwomen 
out of all natural shape by stays (an usage 
which has not long been laid aside) ; or 
of " treating men like mere musical in- 
struments/' and tuning them, as such, in 
Italy. 

We had here also an opportunity of ob- 
serving the mode in which Chinese wo- 
men ride ; a young lady, who appeared 
from her dress and the smallness of her 
feet, to be of the first fashion, being met by 
a party of the officers, on a path so narrow 
and rugged, as to afford time on both sides 
for a mutual and closer inspection than 
could have been otherwise obtained. She 
was only accompanied by an old man, who 
led the animal, which she bestrode, as men 
do in Europe ; but the stirrups were so 
short, and the saddle of such construction, 
that she looked as if seated in a chair. 
She wore a loose gown or wrapper, with 



TO CHINA. 89 

trowsers, which drew close above the 
ancle, to shew the feet and embroidered 
shoes; and her head was decked with a 
profusion of flowers. She had that lan- 
guid and insipid cast of countenance which 
may be seen by referring to a china tea- 
cup, where very faithful delineations of 
their higher class of females may be ob- 
served. It is somewhat extraordinary her 
being found at large in this manner. 

On shore the people were inhospitably 
rude, and even the children were encou- 
raged to be insolent, and to throw stones. 
One mandarin seized a basket of vege- 
tables from the officers' steward, ordering 
him and the interpreter (whom he also beat) 
into the boat, with a number of oppro- 
brious epithets, such as " Foreign Devils ! 
" Spies ! and Fanguays." Our relation with 
the embassy tied our hands at this time. 

Finding no refreshment was to be ob- 
tained here, and being told, by some one 
in authority, that there was a greater pro- 
bability of getting cattle at another har- 
bour, forty miles farther to the eastward, 
we prepared to proceed thither. 



40 VOYAGE OF H. M. S, ALCESTE 

We had by this time been joined by the 
Lyra ; Captain Hall having surveyed the 
western and southern shores of the Gulf 
of Pe-tche-lee, which were found to be in ge- 
neral low. One place, remarkable for its 
height over the adjoining land, had been 
named Mount Ellis. Here we parted for a 
time with our worthy friends of the Ge- 
neral Hewitt, the companions of our 
voyage outward ; that ship proceeding to 
Canton, to complete her ulterior objects. 
On the 26th we weighed from Zeu-a-tau, 
and next morning arrived at Oie-aie-oie, 
a very extensive and secure harbour, the 
Lyra sounding the passage in. On our 
entrance a number of mandarins, (or, as 
the seamen termed them, mad marines) 
came on board to pay their respects; and 
an old turret on the face of a hill fired 
three popguns by way of salute, turning 
out about a dozen and a half of soldiers, 
who looked a good deal like the stage- 
military in an old-fashioned play. 

Their salute was returned by an equal 
number of guns from the ships. At this 
place died Mr. Gawthrop, the master, aged 



TO CHINA. 41 

forty -three years, (thirty -three of which he 
had been at sea,) after a severe illness con- 
tracted at the Cape of Good Hope. He 
had been distinguished as a good seaman 
and correct navigator ; his career in the 
navy had also been marked by his abilities 
as a surveyor of coasts and harbours ; and, 
although a man of blunt manners, his ho- 
nesty was sterling. The ship's reckoning 
had been kept, during his confinement, by 
Mr. Taylor, the chaplain. 

We buried him at sea, near the mouth 
of the harbour, with military honours ; it 
not being considered right to inter him 
among a set of men who would have dis- 
turbed the grave for the coffin or the 
clothes, and of whose thievish disposition 
Ave had had the fullest example. We lost 
no time at this place, where nothing sub- 
stantial was to be found*, but proceeded 
to sea on the 29th, standing to the east- 
ward along the Shan-tun g shore. On the 
31st we saw the land bearing east ; but, 



# Here parted for Macao the Discovery and Investi- 
gator. They were towed up, and sailed down again, 



42 VOYAGE OF H.M. S. ALCESTE 

the wind being light, anchored in forty- 
three fathoms. Towards morning we 
weighed, and the next day anchored again 
among a cluster of islands, lat. 37° 45' N. 
long. 124° 40' 30" E. on the coast of 
Corea. The natives here exhibited, by 
signs and gestures, the greatest aversion 
to the landing of a party from the ships, 
making cut-throat motions by drawing 
their hands across their necks, and push- 
ing the boats away from the beach ; but 
they offered no serious violence. These 
islands were named Sir James Hall's 
Group ; the main land, of considerable 
height, was in view, and not far distant. 
Weighed again, and, the wind being 
easterly, stood to the southward. On 
the 2d we were out of sight of any 
land; but, the wind changing made sail 
easterly, and, on the 3d, passed a num- 
ber of islands, with which the sea was 
studded as far as the eye could reach from 
the mast-head ; and, on the 4th, stood into 
a fine bay formed by the main land to the 
northward and eastward, and sheltered in 
a great degree in other points by Helen's 



TO CHINA. 43 

and other islands to the westward ; and 
anchored in six fathoms in front of a vil- 
lage, a larger town being observed at some 
distance. In the evening six or seven 
large boats came off to the Lyra (being 
nearest the shore), having on board a chief 
(most probably of this district), attended 
by a numerous retinue. There he met the 
commodore ; and, after partaking of some 
refreshment, proceeded, although it was 
now dark, on board the Alceste. He was 
saluted, on leaving the Lyra, with three 
guns, which was repeated by the frigate. 
As he shoved off from the brig, one of his 
attendants, having in some way or other 
misbehaved, was by his order extended 
on the deck of the boat, and received, in 
a summary way, about a dozen and a half 
blows with a flat bamboo over the seat of 
honour ; and, as the culprit squalled, a 
number of his companions standing round 
him joined in the howl, either in derision, 
or to drown his noise. This ceremony 
finished, a flourish of trumpets and other 
instruments announced his approach to 
the frigate. He was a man apparently 



44 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

about seventy years of age, of a very ve- 
nerable and majestic mien ; his hair and 
beard of a hoary whiteness. His dress was 
a light blue robe, with lpose sleeves, and 
fastened round his middle by a buff- 
coloured leathern girdle. He had on his 
head an immense hat, not less than five or 
six feet round the brim, made of some sub- 
stance resembling horse-hair varnished 
over. The cavity to receive the head being 
fixed under the brim, that which rose above 
it, as in European hats, was not larger than 
a common tumbler. He wore a kind of 
half-boots, very much peaked and turned up 
at the points ; and in his hand he held a short 
black stick, twisted round with a silken 
cord, which seemed to be the badge of 
his office. Divested of his broad-brimmed 
hat, he would not upon the whole have 
made a bad representative of old King 
Lear. Of his attendants some were military, 
being distinguished by a short sword or ra- 
pier, the officers wearing peacocks' feathers 
in their hats (a distinction which also exists 
in China for men of merit) ; and the rest 
were civilians. He was ushered into the 



TO CHINA. 45 

cabin, where, in preference to chairs, he 
sat down upon one of the sofa-cushions, 
placed upon deck. It appearing to be 
etiquette for the head to be covered, the 
whole party, consisting of Captains Max- 
well, Hall, and other officers, conformed 
to this rule, and, squatting on the cabin- 
floor, with gold-laced cocked hats on, amid 
the strange costume of the Coreans, looked 
like a party of masquers. 

Much edifying conversation was no 
doubt lost on this occasion ; for much was 
said, but unfortunately not one word was 
understood ; the Chinese interpreter we 
had on board not being able to write his 
own language ; and some of the Coreans 
could write, although they could not speak, 
at least that dialect which he compre- 
hended. The old gentleman, however, 
displayed, by signs, his satisfaction at the 
mode of his reception ; and, after par- 
taking of some liqueurs and sweetmeats, 
took his departure late in the evening 
from the ship, when he was again saluted, 
his band striking up one of their martial 
airs. His own people, when speaking to 



46 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

this chieftain, put their two hands upon 
their knees, and bent their bodies forward. 

During the night several boats were an- 
chored near the Lyra, apparently to watch 
her motions ; and early in the morning the 
same chief, accompanied by a still greater 
retinue, was seen embarking at the nearest 
village, and soon after he visited the Lyra, 
where he breakfasted. He had in his train 
some secretaries, who employed themselves 
in noting down every thing relative to the 
ships which could be acquired by signs : 
the complement of men was described by 
pointing to them, and then, holding up 
ten fingers a certain number of times, 
they counted the guns, examined the mus- 
kets, measured the decks, and made other 
remarks. A shot was fired, by express wish, 
from one of the carronades ; and the dis- 
tance it went, but particularly its recochet- 
ting along the surface of the water, seemed 
to strike them with astonishment. After 
breakfast, a small party of the officers 
(Captains Maxwell, Hall, Messrs. Clifford, 
Lav/, and M'Leod) got into the boats with 
the view of landing at the village ; and the 



TO CHINA. 47 

old chief, thinking they were proceeding on 
board the frigate, accompanied them, his own 
boats attending. But no sooner did he per- 
ceive the course directed to the shore than 
his countenance fell, and he seemed altoge- 
ther in a state of great perturbation, making 
signs that he washed to go to the Alceste, 
and shaking his head when the\ r pointed to 
the town. 

Having reached the beach, the party 
landed, and were immediately surrounded 
by a concourse of people. The old chief- 
tain hung his head, and clasped his hands 
in mournful silence ; at last, bursting into 
a fit of crying, he was supported, sobbing 
all the way, to a little distance, where he 
sat down upon a stone, looking back at 
theofflcers with the most melancholy aspect. 
His feelings appeared to be those of a man 
who imagined some great calamity had 
befallen his country in the arrival of strange 
people; and that he was the unhappy being 
in whose government this misfortune had 
occurred. 

The natives, who had in the mean time 
been driven by their soldiers to a respectful 



48 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

distance, stood gazing in astonishment 
alternately at their afflicted chief and at our 
party. 

Captain Maxwell, observing the distress it 
occasioned him, would permit no advance 
on our side, and, beckoning to him to come 
back, he arose, and slowly returned. 

It was explained as well as could be 
done that no injury was intended, and that 
we were friends. The old man then pointed 
to the sun ; and, describing its revolving 
course four times, he drew his hand across 
his throat, and, dropping his chin upon his 
breast, shut his eyes, as if dead ; intimating 
that in four days (probably the period in 
which an answer could arrive from Kin-ki- 
tao, the capital, for he also pointed to the 
interior) he would lose his head. One of his 
secretaries, or legal advisers (an amazing- 
long-winded man), squatted on the top of 
a large stone, now made a harangue of con- 
siderable length, the purport of which was 
evidently against the advance of the stran- 
gers. Signs were made by us for something 
to eat and drink (thinking hospitality might 
induce them to invite us into their houses); 



TO CHINA. 49 

but messengers were instantly despatched 
to the village, who brought down little 
tables, with mats to sit on, and some re- 
freshments : these, however, not being the 
objects, they were not accepted, making 
them understand that it was unbecoming 
to offer them in that unsheltered manner, on 
the open beach ; and, by way of a hint that 
this was not our mode of treating strangers, 
invited them to return to the frigate, 
where they should dine handsomely, and 
meet with every respect. The old man, who 
had observed attentively, and seemed per- 
fectly to comprehend, the meaning of the 
signs, answered by going through the mo- 
tions of eating and drinking with much 
appearance of liveliness and satisfaction, 
smiling and patting his stomach afterwards, 
to say all was very fine ; then, looking grave, 
he drew his hand across his neck, and shut 
his eyes ; as if to say, " What signifies your 
" good dinners when I must lose my head?" 
Perceiving it was impossible to penetrate 
farther into the interior without violence, 
which we had neither the right nor the in- 
clination to use, the party re-embarked, 

E 



50 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

affecting to be much hurt at the treatment 
they had received. 

The old gentleman followed on board 
the Alceste, seemingly much dejected, and 
looking as if ashamed that he could not pay 
more attention. Wandering about the 
decks, attempting to converse, by signs, 
with every one he met, he took a piece of 
paper from a gentleman who was sitting at 
his desk, and wrote some characters upon 
it, which he seemed to require an answer to, 
but of course none could be given. The 
paper was retained ; and, being shewn 
some months afterwards to Mr. Banner- 
man, at Canton, turned out to be " I 
" don't know who ye are ; what business 
" have ye here?" It was pretty evident, 
however, that he was acting from orders 
which he dared not trifle with, rather than 
from any inhospitable feeling in his own 
nature; for in this respect there was a 
manly frankness in the behaviour of all the 
Coreans we saw, and not what could be 
considered an inclination to be rude. 

He received a Bible, which Captain 
Maxwell (to whom he seemed very thank- 



TO CHINA. 51 

fill for not insisting upon going into the 
town) presented him with, and carried it 
on shore with much care, most likely sup- 
posing it to be some official communica- 
tion. These people are stated to have so 
great a veneration for books, that the act 
of purchasing them is, in fact, a religious 
ceremony. 

Basil's Bay (which this place was named) 
lies in lat. 36° 9' N., long. 126° 32' E., be- 
ing, in sea-phrase, at least 120 miles high and 
dry up the country, according to the exist- 
ing charts. 

This afternoon (5th) got under weigh, 
and stood to the southward, through in- 
numerable islands, which were all high, 
rising like mountains out of the sea. 
None of them seemed of great extent, few 
appearing longer than three or four miles, 
and, as far as we could see, in some de- 
gree cultivated, the inhabitants generally 
crowding to the top of the highest emi- 
nence, where they remained huddled to- 
gether, and gazing until the ships were 
passed. 

On the 8th, anchored in lat. 34° 26' N., 
e 2 



52 



VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 



and here we discovered that the land seen an 
coming up the Whang Hai or Yellow Sea, 
(at present considerably to the southward 
and westward of us,) and which had been 
at that time Called Cape Amherst, was 
not the continent. It was now named 
Alceste Island ; and another range, about 
twenty in number, running north and south, 
rather within it, but outside the Corean 
Archipelago, were called the Amherst Isles. 
This morning, after sounding our way in, 
we came to an anchor in a most excellent 
harbour, named Murray's Sound ; the two 
islands which principally form it, Sham- 
rock and Thistle. 

Here a number of observations were 
taken, and surveys made, to ascertain the 
exact geographical position of the land, 
and the qualities of the anchorage; and 
distinguishing names were, of course, given 
to remarkable spots, which might serve on 
future occasions as leading marks. From 
the top of Montreal, one of the highest, 
135 other islands were distinctly counted ; 
the main land, which seemed very lofty, 
was seen ranging from north-east to east- 



TO CHINA. 53 

south-east, distant about forty miles. From 
Murray's Sound, Craig Harriet, a very 
peculiar rock, rising in sugar-loaf form from 
the sea, bears south 39°, west five miles. 
Another rock, Huntly Lodge, situate on 
an island, south 40° east, resembles a church 
with a square tower. Windsor Castle, 
north 40° 50' east. The direction of the 
sound itself north north-east half east, and 
south south-west half west ; it is a very se- 
cure anchorage, with excellent holding 
ground. The intervening spaces between 
the multitude of isles, generally from one 
to two, or three, and even four miles across, 
are all (at least as far as the boats ex- 
amined) close harbours, and capable of 
containing, in security, all the navies of 
the world. They form, in fact, an almost 
endless chain of harbours, communicating 
with each other. The rise and fall of tide 
is here considerable, but the setting of the 
currents among such a number of islands 
must, of course, be extremely various. 
They appear to be all inhabited, and there- 
fore must possess fresh water. On our first 
landing on Thistle Island, the women fled, 



54 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

with their infant children, over the hill, to a 
place which we named Eagle Point (from a 
large eagle being perched on the precipice 
as we came in), and hid themselves in 
recesses among the rocks ; whilst the 
men, in a body, but unarmed, waved 
and hallooed to us not to advance, mak- 
ing the usual signal with their hands across 
the throat. 

When they found, however, by repeated 
visits, that no hostility w T as intended, and 
that we were rather inclined to give than 
to take from them, they became a little 
more tame, would crowd round the officers 
to see them fire at a mark, bring them wa- 
ter to drink, and offer them part of their 
humble fare to eat; but all this they 
seemed to do in a perfect spirit of inde- 
pendence, and not from fear. Then sud- 
denly, as if recollecting they were acting 
contrary to orders in holding any cor- 
respondence whatever with strangers, they 
would lay hold of some of the gentlemen 
by the shoulders, and push them away, 
pointing to the &hip, intimating that was 
the most proper place for them ; and this 



TO CHINA. 55 

conduct was uniform wherever we touched. 
We observed no fire-arms among them, but 
some who came on board the Alceste dis- 
covered considerable acquaintance with the 
sword exercise. They cultivate as much 
grain as they want for their own consump- 
tion ; they feed cattle (at least for domestic 
purposes) ; and, as may naturally be sup- 
posed, from their peculiar and insular 
situation, they subsist a good deal by fish- 
ing. Of their government, general man- 
ners, and customs, it would be impossible 
to speak with any accuracy from so limited 
an intercourse as we had with them. 

China has very little communication 
with the barbarians of the west, and that is 
chiefly confined to a particular spot, the 
port of Canton ; Japan has still less, and 
Corea none at all. A connexion, however, 
is kept up with China by two or three 
annual junks from the eastern coast. 

What little knowledge we possess of Co- 
rea is mostly derived from the Jesuits of 
China, who certainly were not infallible 
guides in all matters ; but in the geogra- 
phy, general literature, and delineation of 



56 VOYAGE OF H, M. S. ALCESTE 

manners and customs, when unconnected 
with their own superstitions, their labours 
are entitled to a distinguished place in the 
republic of letters, especially when the dif- 
ficulties they had to struggle with are taken 
into consideration ; but here they were freed 
from every motive to deceive, and had only 
to tell the simple truth *i 

Corea (or Kaoli) is tributary to the em- 
peror of China, and sends him triennial Em- 
bassadors expressive of its homage. We 
saw enough, however, to convince us that 
the sovereign of this country governs with 
most absolute sway; and that, occasionally, 
he makes very free with the heads of his 
subjects. The allusion to this danger could 
not have been so constant and uniform, in 



* However well the Jesuits may have fared about the 
courts of Europe, their situation in China was by no means 
a sinecure ; and they must have been very much in earnest 
indeed, in that cause which could have induced them to 
remain in a country where, as helpless strangers, they 
were often extremely ill-treated, and received unmerciful 
bambooings. They have very pathetically described the 
face slapping punishment which was occasionally inflicted 
on them. 



TO CHINA. 57 

places so remote from each other, without 
some strong reason. 

This country, which is also called Chau- 
tsien by the Chinese, and Solho by the 
Mantchew Tartars, is, by the most authen- 
tic reports, separated on the north and 
north-west from the Tartar provinces by a 
chain of mountains, and at one part from 
Lea-tong by a barrier of palisades ; it is 
bounded on the west by the Yellow Sea, 
and on the east by the sea of Japan ; the 
straits of Corea, about 86 miles wide, di- 
viding it on the south-east from the latter 
country. 

It is represented as divided into eight 
large provinces, " containing forty inferior 
districts, in which there are thirty-three 
cities of the first class, fifty-eight of the 
second, and seventy of the third *. Its 
chief rivers, the Ya-lou and Tou-men rise 
from the Shanelin, or Ever-white Mountain, 
indicative of its being perpetually covered 
with snow. It is intersected in all directions 



* These cities are probably not very large. 



58 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

by mountains. It produces abundance of 
wheat and rice. From a species of palm 
found in this country, a gum or balsam is 
extracted, of which a yellow varnish is pre- 
pared, said to be little inferior in beauty to 
gilding. It has a small breed of horses, 
only three feet high. The sea-coast abounds 
with fish of various kinds ; and many whales 
are found every year towards the north- 
east ; some of which are stated to have 
the harpoons of the European whale-fishers 
sticking in their bodies, and must, conse- 
quently, have come all the way from Green- 
land, through the Arctic Ocean, along the 
north-coast of Asia or America, and by 
Behring's Straits, into the seas of Kam- 
tshatka, Jesso, and Japan/' 

" Their women are not under the same 
restraints as in China. Every seventh year, 
all the males of the several provinces who are 
fit to carry arms are obliged to attend at the 
capital in succession, doing military duty 
for two months ; so that during this seventh 
year, the whole male population of the 
country is in motion and under arms." 

About the end of the 16th century, it 



TO CHINA. 59 

appears the Japanese invaded and overran 
Corea, but were driven out again by the 
natives, assisted by the Mantchew Tartars. 
The latter, at this time, attempted to compel 
the Coreans to cut off their hair, and alter 
their dress ; but this occasioned a general 
revolt, which was only appeased by the 
Tartars yielding their point *. 

The law against intercourse with fo- 
reigners appears to be enforced with the 
utmost rigour*-}-. At one of the islands to 
the north, where we first landed, a Corean, 
in an unguarded moment, accepted a but- 
ton which had attracted his attention ; but 
soon after, as the boats were shoving off, he 
ran down into the water, and insisted on 
restoring it, at the same time (by way 



* The Chinese, in a similar case, evinced a very differ- 
ent kind of spirit. An empire consisting, according to 
their own returns, of three hundred and thirty millions, 
tamely permitted a handful of Tartars to shave their 
heads and dress them as they thought proper. 

*f It is said that the crew of a Dutch vessel, a con- 
siderable time since wrecked on the eastern coast, were 
detained in slavery for nineteen years, without being 
heard of, when some of them managed to get away. 



60 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

of reparation) pushing the boat with all 
his might away from the beach. On almost 
all occasions they positively refused every 
thing oiFered to them. His Corean majesty 
may well be styled " king of ten thousand 
isles/' but his supposed continental domi- 
nions have been very much circumscribed 
by our visit to his shores. Except in the 
late and present embassy, no ships had 
ever penetrated into the Yellow Sea ; the 
Lion had kept the coast of China aboard 
only, and had neither touched at the Tartar 
or Corean side. Cook, Perouse, Bougain- 
ville, Broughton, and others, had well de- 
fined the bounds on the eastern coast of 
this country, but the western had hitherto 
been laid down on the charts from imagina- 
tion only, the main land being from a hun- 
dred to a hundred and thirty miles farther 
to the eastward than these charts had led 
us to believe. 

The Jesuits, therefore, must have taken 
the coast of Corea from report, and not 
from observation, for their chart is most in- 
correct, and by no means corresponds with 
their usual accuracy. The Chinese written 



TO CHINA. 61 

characters have found their way here, but 
they would appear to be confined to the 
literati, for the common language has no 
resemblance in sound to the colloquial 
language of China. 



62 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTF. 



CHAP. III. 



Arrival at the island of Grand Lewchew — our 
kind Reception by the Natives — with some Ac- 
count of the History, general Character and 
Manners of this singular people — Remarks on 
the Climate and Produce of the Island. 

ON the 10th we got under weigh and 
proceeded on our voyage, standing through 
the south passage, and made sail to the 
southward, (giving the name of Lyra to an 
island which bore cast of Alceste's about ten 
or twelve leagues, and distant nearly the 
same north-westerly from Quelpart). On 
the 11th, sounded in forty-nine fathoms 
muddy bottom, in lat. 31° 42' N., long. 
126° 30' E. On the morning of the 13th we 
made Sulphur Island, a volcano, situated in 
lat. 27° 56 N., long. 128° 11' E. Whilst yet 
at a great distance, we could observe a 



TO CHINA. 63 

volume of smoke at short intervals bursting 
from its crater. We hove-to for some time 
under its lee, in front of a horrid chasm, 
from whence the smoke issued, but found 
it impossible to land, as there was much wind 
and swell, and the surf broke with tre- 
mendous violence around its base. The 
island, which does not appear above four 
or five miles in circumference, rises pre- 
cipitous from the sea, except in one or two 
spots ; and its height must be considerable, 
judging from the distance we saw it, per- 
haps 1,200 feet. The sulphurous smell 
emitted, even when two or three miles off, 
was very strong *. One end of the island 
displayed strata of a brilliant red-coloured 
earth, which had been noticed before on 
some part of the Corean main. One would 
almost be induced to believe that the mer- 
cury and sulphur, so abundant in these 
regions, had combined to give this ver- 



* A few families are placed here, at certain periods of 
the year, to collect the sulphur emitted by this volcano, 
which forms a considerable branch of revenue to the king 
of the Lew-chew islands. 



64 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

milion hue to the ground. From hence we 
stood on to the southward with a strong wind 
at north by east, which soon increased 
to a gale. Not having sufficient run for the 
night, and being totally unacquainted with 
the coast we were approaching, the ship 
was put under snug canvass, and hauled 
to the wind on the starboard tack. On the 
morning of the 14th we again made sail, and 
soon observed an island rising like a cone 
to a considerable height, with that of 
grand Lew-chew immediately behind it. 
The state of the weather would not war- 
rant our standing closer in with the land 
than about eight miles, as it now blew fresh 
from the west-north-west, which made it 
a lee shore. We hauled to the south-west- 
ward, and in the afternoon saw breakers 
under our lee, the Lyra being closer in, 
and rather a-head. To have put about 
with the wind, as it then was, would have em- 
bayed us for the night ; for the main 
body of the island seemed to form, with 
the peak we had left astern, and the 
position we were now in, a sort of bight. 
The Lyra, indeed, could not have tacked 



TO CHINA. 65 

in such a swell, and was almost too near to 
attempt wearing. Both ships, therefore, 
stood on with every sail they could carry, 
on the starboard tack, endeavouring to 
weather the reef. Much anxiety existed, 
at this moment, on board the Alceste, for 
the fate of the brig ; the breakers rearing 
their white tops close to leeward of her, 
and rolling, with terrific force, upon the 
rocks. By steady steerage, however, and 
a press of sail, she at last passed the dan- 
ger, and bore up through a channel formed 
by the reef and some high islets to the 
southward, very much to the satisfaction of 
all concerned ; and she was followed by the 
frigate. We hove-to, for the night, under the 
lee of the larger island, and the next morn- 
ing's dawn, the weather being now ex- 
tremely fine, displayed to our view a rich 
extent of cultivated scenery, such as we 
had not been lately accustomed to, on the 
naked coasts of Tartary and China. Rising 
in gentle ascent from the sea, the grounds 
were disposed more like the finest country- 
seats in England than those of an island so 
remote from the civilized world, — the tran- 



66 VOYAGE OF H. M. 8. ALCESTE 

quil, placid, and refreshing look of every 
thing around, forming a very pleasing con- 
trast with the boisterous sea and dangerous 
condition of the previous day. We were 
in front of a town, having a sort of line 
wall, along the water's edge, from whence 
some fishing-boats approached the Lyra, 
which by this time had anchored ; and on 
the people being interrogated, by signs, as 
to the proper anchorage, they pointed 
round the south-west end of the island, 
kindly offering, at the same time, some 
vegetables and fresh water, which they had 
in their canoes. 

We made sail in the direction indicated, 
carefully sounding and looking out as we 
advanced along shore, and at night an- 
chored in deep water. On the 16th, at 
day-light, we continued our course, and 
about noon descried a considerable town, 
with a number of vessels at anchor under 
it, in a harbour, the mouth of which was 
formed by two pier-heads. In the after- 
noon, having explored our passage through 
the adjacent reefs, (the Lyra leading), we 
anchored in front of this town. The asto- 



TO CHINA. 67 

nished natives, who most probably had 
never been visited by an European ship 
before*, were perched in thousands on the 
surrounding rocks and heights, gazing on 
the vessels as they entered. Soon after, 
several canoes came alongside, containing 
some people in office, who wished to know 
to what country we belonged, and the 
nature of our visit. By the assistance of the 
Chinese interpreter, whose language some 
of them understood, they were informed 
that we were ships of war belonging to the 
King of England, which had carried an 
Embassador from that monarch to the 
Emperor of China ; and, after having 
landed him and his retinue near Pekin, we 
had, on our return to Canton, where the 
Embassador was to re-embark, met with 
violent weather at sea, in which the ship 
had sprung a leak, obliging us to put in 
there, in order to repair our damages. To 
make this story feasible, the well was filled 



* Captain Broughton, after the loss of the Providence 
in 1797, anchored at this place in a schooner, and re- 
mained forty-eight hours. 

I 2 



68 VOYAGE OF H. M . S. ALCESTE 

by turning the cock in the hold ; and the 
chain-pumps being set to work threw out 
volumes of water on the main deck, to the 
great amazement of these people, who 
seemed to sympathize very much with our 
misfortunes. This ruse was necessary to free 
their minds from that state of alarm, which 
must naturally arise on the arrival of ships 
of such unusual appearance and force, and 
of a people with whose motives they were 
unacquainted, and who might justly be 
considered as the objects of suspicion had 
no reason but mere curiosity been assigned. 
They returned on shore, and put in requi- 
sition a number of carpenters, and people 
acquainted with the construction of their 
own vessels, who, at daylight in the morn- 
ing, hurried on board, bringing with them 
the rude implements of their art, in order 
to render what assistance they could in 
stopping the leak. This offer of kindness 
was, of course, civilly declined by the se- 
nior officer, on the ground that we had 
plenty of good carpenters on board, who 
were perfectly equal to the task; and stating 
that an asylum was all we required during 



TO CHINA. » 69 

the time of repair, with permission to take 
on board some fresh provisions and water, 
of which we stood much in need ; and all 
this we would most cheerfully pay for. 

An immediate supply of bullocks, pigs, 
goats, fowls, eggs, and other articles, with 
abundance of excellent sweet potatoes, 
vegetables, fruit then in season, and even 
candles * and fire-wood, followed this inti- 
mation ; supplies of the same description 
being sent on board as often as was ne- 
cessary, for about six weeks, the period of 
our stay on the island ; those who brought 
them taking a receipt to shew they had 
been delivered safely ; but the chief 
authorities, who sent them, obstinately 
refusing any payment or remuneration 
whatever. 

Meantime, it being found impracticable 
for the frigate to swing in the inner harbour 
at low water, the road in which we lay 
was accurately examined, and found to be 
so protected with coral reefs to seaward, 



* Their candles are made of unrefined wax, with paper 
wicks, and give an excellent light. 



70 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

and covered by the land to the eastward, 
as to be completely sheltered, except in a 
very slight degree at its entrance, and of 
sufficient extent and depth to contain even 
ships of the line. 

On the 20th, we moved up to the head 
of this road, to a place which we called 
Baronpool, where we afterwards rode out 
the equinoctial gales (or change of the 
monsoons). 

On inquiring of them where the king 
was, they said, after some hesitation, ten 
thousand miles off; and when it was 
hinted that it was necessary to have a 
party on shore, such as ropemakcrs and 
smiths, where they could have more room 
to work, and thereby expedite our refit, 
they requested this might not be done until 
they heard from the king, it being an 
unprecedented case, in which they were 
incompetent to act without orders. 

Unwilling to give cause of alarm or un- 
easiness to a people who seemed so well 
disposed, and for whose fears and suspi- 
cions it was but reasonable to make every 
allowance, we remained quietly on board 




- 



TO CHINA. 71 

until the 22d, when intimation was received 
that a great personage intended paying a 
visit to the commodore. 

At the mouth of a little river, opposite 
which we were anchored, we observed this 
chief embarking amidst a great concourse 
of people. He was saluted on his ap- 
proach with three guns from each ship, 
and received on board with every mark of 
respect. He was a man about sixty years 
of age, with a venerable white beard : his 
dress a purple robe, with very loose 
sleeves, and fastened round his middle with 
a sash of red silk ; he had sandals on his 
feet, with white gaiters, not unlike short 
stockings. His cap (the badge of his dig- 
nity) was made of some slight material, 
twisted neatly into folds, and covered with 
a light purple-coloured silk. He had a 
numerous suite with him; some were offi- 
cial people of different ranks, and the rest 
his persona] attendants. Here the occa- 
sion of our visit was again discussed ; the 
pumps were set to work to shew the effect 
of the leak ; and promises, on their part 
renewed, of every assistance. 



72 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

Although they had not heard from the 
king on the subject of our coining on 
shore, and notwithstanding it was contrary 
to a general rule for any stranger to land 
upon their coast; yet, they now said, a 
few of the officers were always welcome to 
walk about within certain bounds. After 
partaking of a very handsome entertain- 
ment, he took his leave, the captain pro- 
mising to return his visit. At one o'clock 
on the following day the boats were 
manned, and Captains Maxwell and Hall, 
with several of the officers in full uniform, 
proceeded into Napa-kiang *. This har- 
bour is the mouth of a river, at the en- 
trance of which, on each side, are strong- 
built walls or piers, for a considerable way 
up, and inside were anchored several 
rather large junks. Vessels under the 



# Napa appears to have been tine original name of the 
town ; but, since their connexion with China, the term 
Foo (or city of the first class) has been added ; making 
Napafoo. Kiang, another Chinese word, signifies river, 
and, when coupled with Napa, means merely the river, 
port, or anchorage of the place. 



TO CHINA. 73 

size of frigates could be received very well 
in this river ; — the bottom is soft mud. 
The river widens somewhat immediately 
above the anchorage, and in it is situated 
a very pretty and well wooded little island. 
At the landing-place the party were met 
by some of the chiefs, who had been most 
in the habit of visiting the ships, each of 
whom, taking one of the officers by the 
hand, led him through an immense col- 
lection of spectators to the gate of a 
public building, where the old gentleman 
already mentioned attended to welcome 
them into the house. Here an entertain- 
ment was served up in a style, which a 
pastry-cook, or connoisseur in eating, 
might describe, but which to another 
might be a difficult task. The utmost good 
humour, however, prevailed, and a liqueur 
(chazzi), something like rosolio, was passed 
round in abundance, so that it was 
quite a man's own fault if he was not 
cheerful. 

Many loyal and friendly toasts, appli- 
cable to both countries, were given and 
drank with enthusiasm. As they had 



74 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

hitherto generously supplied the ships with 
fresh provisions, vegetables, and fruit, and 
constantly refused any kind of payment, 
either in money or by way of barter, the 
captains thought this a proper opportunity 
to offer, as a mark of their personal re- 
gard, some presents to the chiefs, consist- 
ing of various wines, cherry brandy, Eng- 
lish broad cloths, a telescope, and other 
articles ; and on this ground only they 
were accepted ; reserving it to themselves, 
at the same time, to make what personal 
return they might think proper to this inter- 
change of friendship. 

At the end of this conference, it being 
proposed to take a walk over the city, a 
consultation was held among them ; when 
the request was mildly declined, (supposed 
to be through the influence of Buonaparte, 
a man of dark and peculiar aspect, so 
named because he was suspected of 
being the most inclined to keep us at arm's 
length,) stating, they were afraid some 
bad people might be induced to treat us 
with disrespect. It was evident they had 
not the power, without higher authority, 



TO CHINA. 75 

to admit us to freer access ; for the people 
themselves, almost without exception, ap- 
peared by this time to have no apprehen- 
sion about our motives. After much 
hilarity the party took their leave, attended 
in the same way as on landing. 

It was worthy of notice how much regu- 
larity and decorum existed among so 
many thousands as were here collected. 
A lane was formed, on the inner side of 
which the smallest boj^s (generally kneel- 
ing) were placed ; another row squatted be- 
hind these; then the men (those nearest 
stooping a little) ; and outside the still taller 
people, or those mounted on stones, &c. ; 
so that all, without bustle or confusion, 
might have a complete view of the 
strangers. The utmost silence reigned, and 
not a whisper was heard. Perhaps they 
had purposely sent their women out of the 
way,— but the ladies managed (as usual) 
to outwit them, and to gratify curiosity in 
defiance of every precaution to the con- 
trary. A number of them had either been 
placed intentionally on the other side of 
the river, or left there in consequence of 



76 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

all the men having come over to the show ; 
but the boats, in going out, had to pass 
within a few yards of their pier-head ; 
when, finding themselves in almost exclu- 
sive possession of that bank, they left their 
station on a hill, ran down to the point, 
and had their peep, whilst their friends on 
the opposite shore were unable (had it been 
their intention) to keep them in the back 
ground. 

About this period a mutual friendship 
began to exist between us ; confidence 
took place of timidity ; and now, instead 
of permitting only a few to visit the shore 
at a time, they fitted up the garden of a 
temple as a sort of general arsenal for us : 
the habitations of the priests were allotted 
as an hospital for the sick, whilst other 
temporary buildings of bamboo were 
erected for the reception of our powder, 
which required airing, and for various 
stores wanting inspection and repair. The 
rope-makers, smiths, and other artificers, 
were established at a convenient spot, 
about a mile farther along the beach. They 
continued their usual supplies, bringing 



TO CHINA. 17 

us even fresh water on board in their 
boats ; and, understanding we required 
some wood for spars, they felled fir-trees, 
floated them down the river, and towed 
them alongside, singing their usual boat- 
song, which had a very plaintive and 
pleasing effect. 

The island of Lewchew * is about fifty 
miles long and from twelve to fifteen broad ; 
Napa-kiang, our position, (and within five 
miles of Kint-ching, the capital,) lying in 
lat. 26° 14/ N., long. 127° 52' \" E. This is 
its south-west point, the main body of the 
island extending from hence north a little 
eastwardly. It is washed on the one side 

* It is called by an infinity of names in books and 
charts, such as Lekeyo, Lieoo-Kieoo, Lequeyo, Licu- 
Kieu, Likeo, Lieuchieux, Liquieux, and Loochoo; none 
of which have the most distant resemblance to the real 
sound, except the latter ; but as the first syllable is, ac- 
cording to the pronunciation of the superior order of 
the natives, liquid, as in Llewelyn, or the terminating 
syllables of Curlew and Pelezv, for which loo would be 
unsuitable, so Lewchew is here adopted as the only mode 
of spelling, which conveys the true tone or accent of the 
word. It is often by the lower classes corrupted into 
Doo-Choo. 



78 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

by the Northern Pacific Ocean, and on 
the other by the Tung Hai, or Eastern 
Sea. 

The rocks about it are all of the coral 
kind, and immense masses, some assuming 
very odd shapes, were seen every where 
along the sea-shore; and many of the same 
formation were found on the higher land, 
at some distance from the beach, whose 
situation is not easily to be accounted for, 
unless we suppose them to have been 
elevated by the force of volcanic fire. 

It is the principal island of a group of 
thirty-six, subject to the same monarch, 
and the seat of the government. The na- 
tives trace their history back to a period 
long anterior to the Christian era; but 
their first communication with the rest of 
the world, Avhen their accounts became 
fully corroborated and undisputed, was 
about the year 605, when they were in- 
vaded by China, who found them at that 
time — a time when England and the 
greater part of Europe were immersed in 
barbarism — the same kind of people they 
are at the present day, with the exception 



TO CHINA. /'J 

of a few Chinese innovations ; or, at least, 
they appear to have altered but in a very 
slight degree. Indeed, it is very obvious 
that a revolution in manners, and altera- 
tion of habits, are by no means so likely 
to occur with a people thus living in an 
obscure and secluded state, as among those 
who have a wider intercourse with other 
nations. The only connexion which the 
Lewchewans have had with their neigh- 
bours, and that but very limited, has 
been with Japan and China, from neither 
of whom they were likely to receive any 
example of change. 

The clearest, and, perhaps, the only ac- 
count given of their history is by Su-poa- 
Koang, a Chinese doctor or philosopher, 
who was, in 1719? sent as embassador to 
them *. The following is the substance of 
his report as to their origin : — " The Lew- 
u chewan tradition states, that, in the be- 
*' ginning, one man and one woman were 
" produced in the great void or chaos. 



* Vide Lettres Edifiautes, tome xxiii. 



80 VOYAGE or II. M. S. AtCESTE 

" They had the joint name of Omo-mey- 
" kicou. From their union sprung three 
" sons and two daughters; the eldest 
" of the sons had the title of Tien-sun, or 
" Grandson of Heaven, and was the first 
" king of Lewchew ; the second was the 
" father of the tributary princes ; the rest 
" of the people acknowledge the third as 
" their progenitor*. The eldest daughter 
" had the title of Celestial Spirit; the 
" second the Spirit of the Sea. After 
" the death of Tien-sun, twenty-five 
" dynasties reigned successively in this 
" country, occupying (according to their 
" story) a period of 17,802 years previous 
" to the time of Chuntein, who com- 
" menced his reign in 1187. This is their 
" fabulous history, of which they are very 
" jealous ; but nothing certain was known 
" until 605, before which the inhabitants 
" of Formosa and the adjacent islands 
" were denominated by the Chinese the 



# It seems rather unaccountable, in this marvellous 
tradition, that the third sun, to whom uo wife is assigned, 
should have had the most numerous progeny. 



a 



TO CHINA. 81 

Oriental Barbarians. In this year the 
emperor sent to examine them ; but, 
from want of interpreters, no clear ac- 
" count was obtained. They brought 
" back, however, some of the islanders to 
" Sin-gan-foo, the capital of the province 
" of Chen-si, and the seat of the court 
" under the Souy dynasty. Some Japan- 
" ese, who happened to be there, knew 
" the people, and described them as a race 
" of barbarians. The Emperor Yang-ti 
" sent forthwith some who understood their 
" language to Lewchew, to command 
" their homage, and acknowledgment of 
" him as their sovereign. The prince of 
" Lewchew haughtily replied, that he 
" would own none as his superior. A fleet 
" with ten thousand men was now fitted 
" out from Amoi and the ports of Fo-kien, 
" which force, overcoming the efforts of 
" the islanders, landed at Lewchew ; and 
" the king, who had put himself at the 
" head of his people to repel the enemy, 
" being killed, the Chinese burned the 
44 capital, and, carrying off five thousand 
" of the natives, as slaves, returned to 

o 



82 VOYAGE OF H. M. S» ALCEST& 

" China. From this, until 1291, the 
" Lewchewans were left unmolested, when 
" Chit-soo, an emperor of the Yuen fa- 
M mily, reviving his pretensions, fitted out 
" a fleet against them from the ports of 
" Fo-kien ; but, from various causes, it 
" never proceeded farther than the western 
" coast of Formosa, and from thence re- 
" turned unsuccessful to China. In the 
" year 1372, Hong-ou, emperor of China, 
" and founder of the Ming dynasty, sent a 
" great mandarin to Tsay-tou, who go- 
" verned in Tchon-chan, the country being 
" at this period divided, in consequence 
" of civil disturbances, into three king- 
" doms, who, in a private audience, ac- 
" quitted himself with such address as 
" to persuade the king to declare him- 
" self tributary to China, and to request 
" of the emperor the investiture of his 
" estate. 

" Having thus managed by finesse what 
" arms had been unable to effect, the em- 
" peror took care to receive, with great 
" distinction, the envoys sent by their 
" master. They brought offerings of fine 



TO CHINA. 83 

" horses, scented woods, sulphur, copper, 
" and tin, and were sent back again with 
" rich presents for the king and queen ; 
" among which was a gold seal. 

" The two kings of the other districts, 
" Chan-pe and Chan-nan, followed the ex- 
" /ample of Tchon-chan, and their submis- 
" sion was most graciously received. Thirty- 
" six Chinese families w 7 ere sent to live in 
" Cheouli*, where grants of land were 
" conceded to them ; here they taught the 
" Chinese written characters, introduced 
" Chinese books, and the ceremonies in 
" honour of Confucius. The sons of the 
" Lewchewan grandees were also sent to 
" Nankin to study Chinese, and were edu- 
" cated with distinction, at the expense of 
" the emperor. 

" The reigns of Ou-ning and Tse-chao, 
" the son and grandson of Tsay-tou, pre- 
" sented nothing extraordinary ; but that 
" of Chang-pa-chi was marked by the re- 
" union of Chan-pe and Chan-nan with 

* That district of Tchon-chan in which the capital is 
situated, and where we resided. 
G 2 



84 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

" Tchon-chan into one kingdom, and the 
" government has since continued in the 
" hands of a single chief. Lew chew is 
" said henceforth to have had consider- 
" able intercourse with China and Japan 
" in the way of commerce, much to her 
" advantage, and to have even mediated 
" between those two powers when misun- 
" derstandings had occurred. 

" The famous Tay-cosama, however, 
" emperor of Japan, whom the Chinese 
" call ambitious, piratical, irreligious, 
" cruel, and debauched, because he had 
" pillaged their coasts, sent a haughty letter 
" to Chang-ning, commanding him to 
" transfer his homage from China to Ja- 
" pan, which Chang-ning as firmly refused. 
" Notwithstanding the death of Tay-cosa- 
" ma, the Japanese fitted out a fleet at 
" Satsuma, made a descent on Lewchew, 
" took the king prisoner, and carried him 
" off, having plundered the palace, and 
" killed one of his near relations, who 
" also resisted the acknowledgment f 
" the Japanese. During a captivity of two 
" years, Chang-ning acquired the admira- 



TO CHINA. 85 

" tion of the captors by his unyielding 
" firmness and constancy in refusing to 
" swerve from his first allegiance, and 
" they generously sent him back to his 
" states. 

" The Tartar dynasty, soon after this, 
" was placed, by conquest, on the throne 
" of China, and made some alteration in 
" the nature of the tribute to be paid, stipu- 
" lating that envoys, in future, should be 
" sent to Pekin only once in two years. 
" Cang-hi paid much attention to the wel- 
" fare of Lewchew ; and his memory to 
" this day is much respected by the peo- 
" pie. It is said to be nearly a thou- 
" sand years since the bonzes of the sect 
" of Fo introduced their mode of worship 
" into these islands, which has continued 
" to the present time. 

" When they make a vow, it is not be- 
" fore the statues or images of their idols ; 
'* but they burn incense, and, placing 
" themselves in a respectful attitude before 
u certain consecrated stones, which are to 
" be seen in various public situations, they 
" repeat some mysterious words, said to 



80 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

" have been dictated by the divine daugh- 
" tersof Omo-mey-kieou. They have also 
" among them a set of holy women, who 
" worship certain spirits deemed powerful 
" among them, and who visit the sick, 
" give medicines, and recite prayers. This 
" seems to have given rise to the accusa- 
" tion of an old missionary at Japan, who 
" said they practised sorcery and witch- 
" craft. Cang-hi likewise introduced among 
" them the adoration of a new deity, under 
" the name of Tien-fey, or Celestial Queen. 
" Polygamy is allowed here, as in China, 
" but seldom practised. Men and women 
" of the same surname cannot intermarry. 
" The king can only take a wife from one 
" of three great families, who always hold 
" the most distinguished posts : there is 
" also a fourth, of the highest considera- 
" tion, but with which the princes cannot 
" form an alliance, because it is doubtful 
" whether that family is not itself of the 
" royal line. Their chiefs are generally 
" hereditary, but not always ; for men of 
" merit are promoted, and all are liable 
" to be degraded for improper conduct. 



TO CHINA. 87 

" The king's revenue arises from his own 

" domains ; from imposts on salt, sulphur, 

" copper, tin, and several other articles ; 

" and from this income he defrays the 

" expenses of the state, and the salaries 

" of the great officers. 

" These salaries consist nominally in a 

" certain number of bags of rice; but they 

" are paid generally in silks, and various 

" other necessary articles of clothing and 

" food, in proportions equal to the value of 

" so many bags of that grain. All their 

" interior commerce or marketting is per- 

" formed by the women and girls at regu- 

" lated limes. They carry their little loads 

" upon their heads with singular dexterity, 

" consisting of the usual necessaries of 

" life and wearing apparel, which they ex- 

" change for what they more immediately 
" want, or for the copper coin of China and 

" Japan*. The men are said to be neat 

" workmen in gold, silver, copper, and other 

# We saw no money among them. Lieut. Dwarris on 
one occasion observed a chief paying a man for some- 
thing with a note, which induced him to think they had 
paper money; but this note might have been an order for 
a bag of rice or piece of cloth. 



b» VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

" metals; and there are manufactories 
" of silk, cotton, flax, and paper. They 
" also build very good vessels, quite large 
" enough to undertake voyages to China 
" and Japan, where their barks are much 
" esteemed. They have adopted the Chi- 
" nese calendar with respect to the division 
" of the month and year. This island pro- 
" duces rice, wheat, and all sorts of vege- 
" tables, in abundance*. The people of 
" the coast are expert fishermen, and the 
" sea and rivers are well furnished with fish. 
" They are famous divers, and obtain shells 
" and mother-of-pearl, very much esteemed 
" in China and Japan. 

" They possess many woods proper for 
" dying ; and one tree in particular yields 
" an oil which is held in great repute. 
" They have likewise a great variety of 
" most delicate fruits, oranges, citrons, le- 
" mons, long-y-ven, lee-tchees, grapes, &c. 
" Wolves, tigers, and bears, are unknown ; 
" but they have many useful animals, 
" such as horses, water-dogs, black cattle, 



* The Sago-tree was also observed to be very plen- 
tiful. 



TO CHINA. 89 

" stags, poultry, geese, peacocks, pigeons, 
" doves, &c. 

" The camphor, cedar, and ebony, are 
" among the number of their trees ; and 
" they have also wood well fitted for ship- 
" building, and for public edifices. They 
" are represented as disdaining slavery, 
" lying, and cheating. They are fond of 
" games and amusements, and celebrate, 
" with much pomp, the worship of their 
" idols, at the end and commencement of 
" the year; and there exists much union 
" among the branches of families, who 
" give frequent and cheerful entertainments 
" to each other.'" 

The ceremony of installation of the king 
of Lew chew is thus described : " When 
" the king dies, his heir sends an embassa- 
" dor to the emperor, to make known that 
" circumstance, and to demand his inves- 
" titure. — Meantime the Lewchewans treat 
" as king and queen the prince and the 
" princess his wife, though it is not, ac- 
" cording to the Pekin regulations, until 
" after the installation that they assume 
" the titles. The emperor either sends 



90 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

from himself a qualified person to per- 
form this ceremony, or grants full powers 
to the Lewchewan embassador to do so 
on his return. 

" If the former is determined upon, the 
emperor orders the tribunal of ceremo- 
nies to find a fit person to sustain with 
dignity the majesty of the Chinese em- 
pire ; and the choice falls on whom they 
know the emperor wishes, a second being 
named in the event of death or sick- 
ness. The emperor, after approving the 
choice, admits the embassador to an 
audience, and gives him the necessary in- 
structions, and the presents intended for 
the king and queen. The mandarins of 
Fo-kien are ordered to equip a vessel, and 
to choose a captain, officers, sailors, sol- 
diers, and pilots, sometimes amounting 
to three hundred and fifty persons. The 
embassador is conducted from court with 
great pomp to the capital of Fo-kien, 
where he is lodged in a commodious 
palace, and treated with much distinc- 
tion. 
" He is embarked with great state, when, 



TO CHINA. 91 

" after the usual ceremonies to propitiate 
" heaven, and the goddess Tien-fey, they 
" make sail. On their anchoring near Napa- 
" kiang, the king gives the necessary or- 
" ders for receiving the embassador, with all 
" the honours due to the title of Celestial 
" Envoi/, that is, to the envoy of the son of 
" heaven, or the emperor of China. The 
" princes and grandees repair to the port 
" in their court dresses. A number of ves- 
" sels, richly ornamented, conduct the 
" stranger into harbour, where the embas- 
" sador and suite lands, and is attended 
" to his palace with great pomp by the 
" princes and grandees, who take care to 
u make such an appearance as to do ho- 
" nour to the nation. Every thing is regu- 
" kited with respect to the maintenance of 
" the embassador and retinue, who are all 
" permitted, even to the lowest domestic, 
" the privilege of carrying a certain quan- 
" tity of money, and of Chinese merchan- 
" dise, to make a little trade. In the time of 
" the Ming dynasty, the profits of the 
" Chinese were considerable at Lew- 
" chew ; at present only moderate. The 



92 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

embassador ordinarily piques himself on 
having no personal connexion with com- 
merce *. 

" After having taking some repose, he 
repairs to the grand hall, where he finds 
a magnificent estrade, on which he seats 
himself. On a signal given, at the same 
instant, the princes, ministers, and gran- 
dees of the first order, placed according 
to rank, make the nine prostrations to 
salute the emperor. The embassador 
stands ; and, after the ceremony, makes 
a profound reverence. When the chiefs 
of the second and third class prostrate 
themselves, he also stands, and after- 
wards presents his hand to them. On 
the performance of the inferior chiefs, 
the embassador is seated, but afterwards 
presents his hand to them. This ceremo- 
nial finished, some grandees on the part 
of the king come to congratulate the em- 
bassador on his safe arrival. The rest of the 
day is spent in repasts, public rejoicings, 

* This is quite in the inflated style of these celestials, 
whilst in the practice of every thing that is sordid. 



TO CHINA. 93 

" and concerts, in all the cities and neigh- 
" bouring villages, and on board the ves- 
" sels. On a certain day the embassador 
" goes to the temple of the goddess Tien- 
" fey, to return thanks for her protection, 
" and from thence to the imperial palace, 
" where he performs the Chinese ceremo- 
" nies, in honour of Confucius. On another 
" day the embassador with all his retinue 
" repairs to the royal hall, where are the 
" tablets of the deceased kings ; the heir to 
" the throne also appearing, but as a prince 
" simply. 

" The embassador then performs, in the 
" name of the emperor, the Chinese marks 
" of respect in honour of the deceased king, 
" the predecessor of the reigning prince, 
" and also for his forefathers; and presents 
" the odours, the silks, manufactures, and 
" silver, sent by the emperor for that pur- 
" pose. The prince then makes the nine 
" prostrations to thank the emperor, and 
" inquires after the state of his health. 
" He next salutes the embassador, and 
" dines, familiarly, and without ceremony, 
" with him. When all is regulated for 



94 VOYAGE OF H. M.S. ALCESTE 

the instalment, the embassador, with 
all his suite, and a great number of 
people, proceed to the palace. The 
court is rilled with lords and chieftains, 
richly attired, and ranged in due 
order. On his entrance, the embassador 
is received by the princes, and con- 
ducted, with music sounding, to the 
royal hall, where there is an elevated 
estrade for the prince and princess, and 
a distinguished place for the embassa- 
dor. All the princes, grandees, and minis- 
ters, standing, the embassador reads, 
with a loud voice, the imperial diploma; 
in which the emperor, after some eulogy 
on the defunct sovereign, acknowledges 
for king and queen the hereditary prince 
and princess his wife. This declaration 
is accompanied by exhortations of the 
emperor to the new monarch, to govern 
according to law ; and to the people of 
the thirty-six isles to be faithful in their 
allegiance. After it is read, the imperial 
patent is presented to the king, who 
transfers it to the minister, to be re- 
tained among the archives of the court. 



TO CHINA. 95 

" Then the king, queen, princes, &c., 
" make the nine prostrations, to salule and 
" thank the emperor. The embassador 
" next displays the rich presents from his 
" master to the king and queen, when the 
* usual thanks are returned. Whilst the 
" embassador reposes himself for a short 
" time in an adjoining apartment, the king 
" and queen, seated on their thrones, 
" receive the homage of the princes, 
" ministers, grandees, and deputies, of the 
" thirty-six isles. The queen then retires, 
" and the king entertains the embassador 
" with much splendour. 

" Some days afterwards, seated in the 
" royal chair, borne by many porters, the 
" king, followed by the princes and minis- 
" ters, and a brilliant suite, goes to the 
" hotel of the embassador. 

" The road is ornamented by triumphal 
" arches ; and at certain distances are 
" found tents, in which are placed fruits, 
" flowers, and perfumes. Around the 
" chair of the king are seven young girls, 
u on foot, carrying his flags and umbrellas. 
" The princes, ministers, and grandees, 



96 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

are on horseback, and are emulous to 
distinguish themselves, on this occasion, 
by their superb dresses and numerous 
suite. 

" The embassador, at the gate of the 
hotel, receives his majesty with great 
respect, and leads him to the grand 
hall. The king now again salutes the 
emperor ; after which he honours the 
embassador, by offering with his own 
hand wine and tea. This the embassa- 
dor declines; and, returning the cup, he 
takes one for himself, which he does not 
drink until after the king has first drank 
his. This ceremony finished, his majesty 
and suite return to the palace. He 
names, some days afterwards, an em- 
bassador to proceed to the court of the 
emperor, to thank his majesty, and to 
send him presents, a list of which is 
communicated to the Chinese embassador, 
and he orders a vessel to be equipped, 
which accompanies that of the Chinese 
on its return. At last, the imperial 
envoy, having determined the day of his 
departure, takes leave of the king ; and 



TO CHINA. 97 

" some time afterwards the latter pro- 
" ceeds to the hotel of the embassador, 
" to wish him a happy voyage, and to 
" make the usual prostrations in honour 
" of the emperor, and to return him 
" thanks. 

" During the sojourn of the embassador, 
" the king gives him frequent entertain- 
" ments ; sometimes in the grand palace ; 
" at others in his pleasure-houses ; and, 
" occasionally in water parties. The 
" queen, princesses, and ladies, assist at 
" these ceremonies. They have music, 
" dancing, and comedies, with songs, in 
" praise of the imperial and royal families, 
\\ and of the embassador, Sec." 

Such is the account of Supoa-Koang ; 
and, having observed a great part of what 
he relates to be true, it is but fair and rea- 
sonable to give him credit for what we had 
not the opportunity of actually seeing. 
One thing appears very evident, — that 
these poor islanders have been much 
cajoled and humiliated, as well as en- 
cumbered with a load of ceremonies, very 

H 



98 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

foreign to their nature, by the usurpation of 
the Chinese. 

The dress of these people is as remark- 
able for its simplicity as it is for its ele- 
gance. The hair, which is of a glossy 
black, (being anointed with an oleaginous 
substance, obtained from the leaf of a 
tree,) is turned up from before, from be- 
hind, and on both sides, to the crown of 
the head, and there tied close down ; great 
care being taken that all should be per- 
fectly smooth ; and the part of the hair 
beyond the fastening, or string, being now 
twisted into a neat little top-knot, is there 
retained by two fasteners, called camesashee 
and usisashee, made either of gold, silver, 
or brass, according to the circumstances 
of the wearer ; the former of these having 
a little star on the end of it, which points 
forward. This mode of hair-dressing is 
practised with the greatest uniformity, 
from the highest to the lowest of the males, 
and has a very pleasing effect, whether 
viewed singly, or when they are gathered 
together. At the age often years the boys 



TO CHINA. 99 

are entitled to the zisisashee, and at fifteen 
they wear both. Except those in office, 
who wear only a cap on duty, they appear 
to have no covering for the head, at least 
in fine weather. Interiorly, they wear a 
kind of shirt, and a pair of drawers, but 
over all a loose robe, with white sleeves, 
and a broad sash round their middle. 
They have sandals on their feet, neatly 
formed of straw ; and the higher orders 
have also white gaiters, coming above the 
ancle. The quality of their robes depends 
on that of the individual. — The superior 
classes wear silk of various hues, with a 
sash of contrasting colour, sometimes inter- 
woven with gold. — -The lower orders make 
use of a sort of cotton stuff, generally of a 
chesnut colour, and sometimes striped, or 
spotted blue and white. 

There are nine ranks of grandees, or 
public officers, distinguished by their caps; 
of which we observed four. — The highest 
noticed was worn by a member of the royal 
family, which was of a pink colour, with 
bright yellow lozenges. — The next in dignity 

h 2 



100 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

was the purple ; then plain yellow; and the 
red seemed to be the lowest. 

On the female attire we could make but 
little observation. — The higher ranks are 
said to wear (and some indeed were seen 
with) simply a loose flowing robe, without 
any sash ; the hair either hanging loose 
over the shoulders, or tied up over the 
left side of the head, the ends falling down 
again. The lower orders seemed to have 
petticoats scarcely deeper than a High- 
lander's kilt, with a short, but loose habit 
above. One lady, who very frequently 
promenaded at the nearest village, in front 
of the ships, appeared to have her robe 
richly embroidered. 

The island of Lewchew itself is situate 
in the happiest climate of the globe. — 
Refreshed by the sea-breezes, which, from 
its geographical position, blow over it at 
every period of the year, it is free from 
the extremes of heat and cold, which 
oppress many other countries ; whilst from 
the general configuration of the land, 
being more adapted to the production of 



TO CHINA. 101 

rivers and streamlets than of bogs or 
marshes, one great source of disease in the 
warmer latitudes has no existence : and the 
people seemed to enjoy robust health ; 
for we observed no diseased objects, nor 
beggars of any description, among them. 

The verdant lawns and romantic scenery 
of Tinian and Juan Fernandez, so well 
described in Anson's Voyage, are here dis- 
played in higher perfection, and on a 
much more magnificent scale ; for cultiva- 
tion is added to the most enchanting 
beauties of nature. From a commanding 
height above the ships, the view is, in all 
directions, picturesque and delightful. On 
one hand are seen the distant islands, 
rising from a wide expanse of ocean, 
whilst the clearness of the water enables 
the eye to trace all the coral reefs, which 
protect the anchorage immediately below. 
To the south is the city of Napafoo, the 
vessels at anchor in the harbour, with their 
streamers flying ; and in the intermediate 
space appear numerous hamlets scattered 
about on the banks of the rivers, which 
meander in the valley beneath; the eye 



102 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

being, in every direction, charmed by the 
varied hues of the luxuriant foliage around 
their habitations. Turning to the east, 
the houses of Kint-ching, the capital city, 
built in their peculiar style, are observed, 
opening from among the lofty trees which 
surround and shade them, rising one 
above another in gentle ascent to the 
summit of a hill, which is crowned by the 
king's palace : the intervening grounds 
between Napafoo and Kint-ching, a dis- 
tance of some miles, being ornamented by 
a continuation of villas and country- 
houses. To the north, as far as the eye 
can reach, the higher land is covered with 
extensive forests. 

About half a mile from this eminence, 
the traveller is led by a foot-path to what 
seems only a little wood ; on entering 
which, under an archway formed by the 
intermingling branches of the opposite 
trees, he passes along a serpentine laby- 
rinth, intersected at short distances by 
others. Not far from each other, on either 
side of these walks, small wicker doors are 
observed, on opening any of which, he is 



TO CHINA. 103 

surprised by the appearance of a court- 
yard and house, with the children, and all 
the usual cottage train, generally gam- 
boling about ; so that, whilst a man fancies 
himself in some lonely and sequestered 
retreat, he is, in fact, in the middle of a 
populous, but invisible, village. 

Nature has been bountiful in all her 
gifts to Lewchew : for such is the felicity 
of its soil and climate, that productions of 
the vegetable kingdom, very distinct in 
their nature, and generally found in 
regions far distant from each other, grow 
here side by side. It is not merely, as 
might be expected, the country of the 
orange and the lime ; but the banyan of 
India and the Norwegian fir, the tea-plant 
and sugar-cane, all flourish together. In 
addition to many good qualities, not often 
found combined, this island can also boast 
its rivers and secure harbours ; and last, 
though not least, a worthy, a friendly, and 
a happy race of people. 

Many of these islanders displayed a 
spirit of intelligence and genius, which 
seemed the more extraordinary, considering 



104 VOYAGE OF H. M.S. ALCESTJE 

the confined circle in which they live ; 
such confinement being almost universally 
found to be productive of narrowness of 
mind. Our friends here were an exception 
to the general rule. — Madera Cosyong, one 
of our most constant and intimate friends, 
acquired such proficiency in the English 
language, in the course of a few weeks, 
as to make himself tolerably understood. 
He evidently came on board, in the first 
instance, as a spy upon our conduct, 
before they were satisfied that we meant 
no harm ; and no man was ever better 
adapted for this duty; for, as his conci- 
liatory and pleasing manner won upon all 
hearts, he had therefore a natural access 
every where; and, had " stratagems or 
schemes" existed, he of all others was the 
most likely to have discovered them. 

Not assuming his proper character, 
which was that of a man of some dis- 
tinction, until his mind was satisfied about 
us, and then doing so with frankness, is 
a proof that such were his original motives. 
To acquire our tongue, he marked the 
sound of any English word for the most 



TO CHINA. 105 

Familiar articles of the table, or terms of 
conversation, and noted them in symbols 
of his own language, with their significa- 
tion, which enabled him, with slight re- 
ference to his vocabulary, to manage with- 
out having recourse to the interpreter. If 
he happened to be walking on shore with 
any of the officers, he would not lose the 
sound or meaning of a word because he had 
not his book with him, but scratched it on 
the leaf of a tree, and transcribed it at his 
leisure. His first attempt to connect a sen- 
tence was rather sudden and unexpected. 
Rising to go away one evening after his 
usual lesson, he slowly articulated, " You 
" give me good wine, — I tank you, — I go 
" shore/' — He delighted in receiving in- 
formation, and his remarks were always 
pertinent. — The map of the world, with 
the track of the ship across the various 
oceans from England to Lewchew, with the 
different intervening continents and islands 
were pointed out and explained to him, 
which he, as well as others, seemed to trace 
with peculiar care, and at last, in a great 
degree, to comprehend, although the sub- 



106 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

ject was, in the first instance, entirely new 
to them, for they certainly had no idea of 
the vast extent or figure of the globe. He 
was gay or serious, as occasion required, 
but was always respectable; and of Madera 
it might be truly said, that he was a gentle- 
man, not formed upon this model, or 
according to that rule, but " stamped as 
" such by the sovereign hand of Nature." 

They all seemed to be gifted with a sort 
of politeness which had the fairest claim to 
be termed natural ; for there was nothing 
constrained, nothing stiff or studied in it. 

Captain Maxwell having one day invited 
a party to dine with him, the health of the 
king of Lewchew was drank in a bum- 
per : — one of them, immediately addressing 
himself with much warmth and feeling to 
the interpreter, desired him to state how 
much they felt gratified by such a compli- 
ment ; that they would take care to tell it 
to every body when they went on shore ; 
and proposed, at the same time, a bumper 
to the king of the Engelees. A Chinese 
mandarin, under the like circumstances, 
would, most probably, have chin-chinned 



TO CHINA. 107 

(that is, clenched his lists) as usual ; he 
would have snivelled and grinned the esta- 
blished number of times, and bowed his head 
in slavish submission to the bare mention 
of his tyrant's name ; but it never would 
have occurred to him to have given, in his 
turn, the health of the sovereign of England. 

This superiority of manner brought to 
our recollection the boorishness of the Chi- 
nese near the Pei-ho. Some mandarins, 
who were not of a rank sufficiently high to 
be entertained in the cabin, were invited 
to dine with the officers ; and some of 
them, after gnawing the leg of a fowl, 
would without any ceremony thrust the 
remains of it into any other dish near 
them ; and instead of following our example 
(as the Lewchewans uniformly did), in 
pouring out the wine into glasses, or, indeed, 
in any way accommodating themselves to 
our style, they would take up, with both 
hands, the decanter, and, applying it to 
their greasy mouths, thereby secure the 
exclusive possession of that bottle. 

These islanders are represented as being 
remarkable for their honesty and adherence 



108 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

to truth, and to this character they appear 
to be fully entitled. The chiefs informed 
us that there was little probability of their 
stealing any thing ; but, as iron implements 
were a great temptation, they begged that 
none might be left carelessly about. — 
Although, however, the rope machinery 
and other articles remained, for many nights, 
unguarded on the beach, and their oppor- 
tunities on board were numberless, yet not 
one theft occurred during the whole of our 
sojourn among them. 

That proud and haughty feeling of na- 
tional superiority, so strongly existing among 
the common class of British seamen, which 
induces them to hold all foreigners cheap, 
and to treat them with contempt, often 
calling them outlandish lubbers in their own 
country, was, at this island, completely 
subdued and tamed by the gentle manners 
and kind behaviour of the most pacific 
people upon earth. Although completely 
intermixed, and often working together, 
both on shore and on board, not a single 
quarrel or complaint took place on either 
side during the whole of our stay ; on the 



TO CHINA. 



109 



contrary, each succeeding day added to 
friendship and cordiality. 

Notwithstanding it was an infringement 
of their established rules for strangers to 
land upon their coasts, yet they granted 
every possible indulgence, and conceded 
the point as far as they could ; for their 
dispositions seemed evidently at war with 
the unsocial law. When any of the officers 
wandered into the country beyond the 
bounds prescribed, they were never rudely 
repulsed, as in China or Morocco, but 
mildly entreated to return, as a favour to 
those in attendance, lest they should incur 
blame ; and, as this appeal was powerful, 
it was never disregarded. 

They erected little temporary bamboo 
watch-houses or sheds, where those engaged 
in this duty resided ; and, as we wandered 
about, handed us over from one post to 
another. In these houses they always 
pressed the officers to partake of their fare, 
which was often very good, especially a kind 
of hung beef, which they have the art of 
curing extremely well. 



110 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

They appeared to be much accustomed 
to these pic-uic sort of parties, having a 
small japanned box, containing sliding 
drawers for the various viands, which a boy 
generally carried, on the end of a bamboo, 
to any part of the fields where they thought 
proper to dine. 

One man, very often accompanied by 
Geroo, or (as he was sometimes termed, 
from having a constant smile upon his 
countenance) thelaughingmandarin,seemed 
to carry about with him a constant supply 
of these refreshments, and chazzi, a liqueur, 
which led us to believe that he had been 
deputed for the express purpose of paying 
attention to our officers. 

The sudden vicissitudes of weather to 
which we had been exposed, by leaving 
England during extreme cold, and pass- 
ing suddenly into the torrid zone ; then im- 
mediately afterwards into the cold raw cli- 
mate of the southern Atlantic ; meeting with 
heat again at the Cape of Good Hope; then 
crossing in rather a high latitude the chilly 
Southern Ocean ; and, quickly following 



TO CHINA. Ill 

that appearing on the burning coast of Java; 
might, in fact, be said to have exposed us, 
in the short period of four months, to the 
effects of three summers and three winters; 
and proved, as might naturally be sup- 
posed, extremely trying to the health of the 
men. On our arrival at Lewchew, our cases 
of sickness, though not numerous, were se- 
vere ; and to the kindness of the natives 
may, in a great measure, be attributed their 
recovery. They were not only comfortably 
lodged, but the higher class of people * 
daily attended, inquiring into their wants, 
giving additional coogas or eggs, and other 
delicacies, to those whose cases more par- 
ticularly required them, and paying a 
cheering attention to the whole ; for theirs 



* One elderly man, whom Mr. Fisher (the assistant 
surgeon), who was always at the hospital, thought to be a 
physician, wrote something at the desk, which Mr. Fisher 
concluded was a prescription. On translating it afterwards 
at Canton it turned out to be a moral maxim, " Let not 
" the present day be passed in idleness. — The days of our 
" youth will not return. — By being diligent and studious 
" we arrive at offices of rank." — (Literally) " We ride 
" on horseback, and wear embroidered clothes." 



112 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

was a substantial, not a cold or ostentatious, 
charity. 

A young man, whose case had long been 
hopeless, died here. On that night a coffin 
was made by our own carpenters, whilst 
the natives dug a grave, in the English man- 
ner, in a small burial-ground under some 
trees near the landing-place. 

Next morning; we were astonished to find 
a number of the principal inhabitants clad 
in deep mourning (white robes with black 
or blue sashes), waiting to attend the fune- 
ral. The captain came on shore with the 
division of the ship's company to which the 
man belonged, and proceeded to the garden 
where the body lay. His messmates bore 
the coffin, covered with the colours; the 
seamen ranged themselves two and two, in 
the rear of it ; next were the midshipmen ; 
then the superior officers ; and, last of all, 
the captain, as is usual in military cere- 
monv of this kind. The natives, who had 
been watching attentively this arrangement, 
and observing the order of precedence to 
be inverted, without the least hint being 
given, but with that unassuming modesty 



TO CHINA. 113 

and delicacy which characterize them, 
when the procession began to move placed 
themselves in front of the coffin, and in this 
order marched slowly to the grave. The 
utmost decorum and silence prevailed 
whilst the funeral service was performing 
by the chaplain, although there was a con- 
siderable concourse of people ; and after- 
wards they marched back, but in different 
order, to the garden. Here they took the 
directions for the shape of a stone to be 
placed at the head of a tomb, which, as a 
mark of respect, they had already begun 
to erect over the grave. This was soon 
finished ; and the shape of the English let- 
ters being drawn with Indian ink, they, 
notwithstanding the simplicity of their tools, 
cut out with much neatness the following 
epitaph, which, when explained to them, 
seemed to be highly gratifying: — 

Here lies buried, 

Aged Twenty-One Years, William Hares, Seaman, 

Of His Britannic Majesty's ship Alceste. 

Died Oct. 15, 1816. 

This Monument was erected 

By the King 

And Inhabit ts 

Of this most hospitable Island. 



114 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

The day after the interment they appeared 
at the tomb, with their priests, and per- 
formed the funeral service according to the 
rites of their own religion. There is not 
an act of these excellent and interesting 
people which the mind has not pleasure in 
contemplating and recollecting. Not sa- 
tisfied with having smoothed the path of 
death, they carried their kind regards even 
beyond the grave ! 

Of our religion they could form no idea, 
nor was it possible to explain it to them. 
They seemed at first to consider us as wor- 
shippers of the sun or moon, and, of course, 
our astronomers as high priests, from seeing 
them busied about an observatory which 
had been erected in our garden, with a large 
telescope for the examination of the hea- 
venly bodies. 

One Sunday a munber of them were ob- 
served, during divine service, peeping 
through the quarter-deck ports, but were 
not noticed in sufficient time to invite 
them in. 

Captain Maxwell, in riding one morning 
to inspect the progress of the artificers, by 



TO CHINA. 115 

the stumbling of his horse, which fell among 
the rocks, not only fractured the bone, but 
badly dislocated the joint of his fore-finger. 
Some of his Lewchewan friends, who were 
near him, ran to the next village for one of 
their surgical professors. He soon arrived, 
and, after much salutation, proceeded to 
examine the injury, (the dislocation had 
in the interim been reduced by the coxswain 
pulling upon it,) and stated that he would 
come on board the ship, whither the cap- 
tain was then proceeding, in an hour, with 
the applications he thought necessary for it. 
At the time appointed, one of the chiefs, 
with this surgeon, and another more in the 
character of a physician, and their retinue, 
some of them bearing a medicine-chest, 
made their appearance alongside. The in- 
jury being again examined, (and it having 
been previously decided that they were to 
have the management of the cure, under 
surveillance, in order to observe how they 
would act,) a fowl was killed with much 
form, and skinned, and a composition of 
flour and eggs, with some warm ingredients 
about the consistence of dough, was put 

i 2 



116 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

round the fractured part, (which had the 
effect of retaining it in its position,) and the 
whole enclosed in the skin of the fowl. As 
this fowl appeared to have been sacrificed, 
its skin being applied to enclose the whole 
was most probably meant to act as a charm. 
The manual part finished, the physician 
proceeded to examine the general state of 
health, and the pulse appeared to be his 
chief, and indeed only guide, in this re- 
spect. The arm was laid bare to the shoul- 
der, and he applied his fingers with great 
attention, and with as much solemnity as 
ever issued from Warwick-lane, to the 
course of the artery, and at all parts of the 
arm where he could feel it beat, to ascer- 
tain whether it was every where alike ; and, 
lest there should be any mistake in this 
point, the other arm underwent the same 
investigation ; the whole party looking all 
the while extremely grave. Having now 
decided as to the medicines necessary on 
this occasion, his little chest was brought 
forward, with his pharmacopoeia, and a sort 
of Clinical Guide, directing the quantity 
and quality of the dose. 



TO CHINA. 117 

His chest was extremely neat, its exterior 
japanned black, and a number of par- 
titions in it, again subdivided, so as to 
contain about a hundred and eighty dif- 
ferent articles (quite enough in all con- 
science, even among the greatest hypo- 
chondriacs and drug-swallowers) ; but they 
were fortunately all simples, being a col- 
lection of wood-shavings, roots, seeds, and 
dried flowers of his own county. There 
appeared also some ginseng, a product of 
Tartary and Corea, much in vogue in these 
parts. Small portions of the specified 
articles were measured out with a silver 
spatula, and put up in little parcels md 
directions were now issued as to the i.iode 
of boiling and drinking the decoction. 
Next day they were highly delighted to 
hear the good effect of their medicines, 
though they had never been taken (as 
many a poor doctor is cheated by cunning 
patients) ; and a new application was 
brought for the finger, termed a fish poul- 
tice, so composed as to look, and indeed 
to smell, something like currant-jolly. 

Having carried on this scheme for a few 



118 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

days, they were then informed that the 
finder was so much better as to render their 
attendance unnecessary any longer ; and, 
as a reward for their services, they were 
presented with some little articles, and 
among others, as an addition to the chest, 
some spirits of hartshorn, displaying to 
them its effect on the olfactory organs, 
with which they were quite astonished and 
pleased ; some spirits of lavender and oil 
of mint, they also considered a great 
acquisition. The physician, more espe- 
cially, seemed to be a very respectable 
man, and was treated as such by those 
about him. Their practice seems to be a 
good deal derived from the Chinese, for 
their notion of the circulation of the blood, 
or rather their having no correct notion 
about it, is the same. Neither have they 
any idea of anatomy from actual observa- 
tion, and, of course, the greater opera- 
tions cannot be undertaken ; one man 
only was examined by Mr. Rankin, who 
had lost his arm, and his stump was rather 
a rude one. Some corn was left with them, 
which they promised to cultivate ; and for- 






TO CHINA. 119 

Innately Captain Hall had some English 
potatoes, which were likely to be pro- 
ductive, and the mode of planting them 
was particularly described. Their own, or 
sweet potatoes (convolvulus batatas) with 
which they supplied us, contain a great 
quantity of saccharine matter, and are 
extremely nutritious. Their fields were 
extremely neat, and their furrows ar- 
ranged with much regularity by a plough 
of a simple construction drawn by bulls, 
assisted occasionally by the use of a 
hoe ; and they practised irrigation in 
the culture of their rice. A young bull 
of English breed (though calved on the 
island) was presented to the chief autho- 
rities by Captain Maxwell, leaving them 
also a cow (having two on board), so that 
it is possible the next visitors who touch 
at Lewchew may find a larger, though 
they cannot find a better, race of cattle. 

The mode of dancing of these people 
may, strictly speaking, be termed hop- 
ping ; for they jump about upon one leg 
only, keeping the other up, and changing 
occasionally, making a number of extra- 
vagant motions, and clapping with their 



120 VOYAGE OF Hi M. S. ALCESTE 

hands, and singing at the same time their 
dancing song. According to our notions, 
this was their only ungraceful action. A 
number of them thus engaged, more espe- 
cially when joined by the officers, (who 
must needs acquire their style,) formed 
rather a grotesque assembly. They at- 
tempted our mode of country-dancing, and 
managed (considering it was necessary 
to make use of both feet) tolerably well. 

The Lewchewans are a very small race 
of people, the average height of the men 
not exceeding five feet two inches at the 
utmost. Almost the whole animal crea- 
tion here is of diminutive size, but all 
excellent in their kind. Their bullocks 
seldom weighed more than 350lbs., but 
they were plump and well-conditioned, 
and the beef very fine ; their goats and 
pigs were reduced in the same proportion, 
their poultry seeming to form the only 
exception. However small the men might 
be, they were sturdy, well-built, and ath- 
letic. The ladies we had no opportunity 
of measuring, but they appeared to be of 
corresponding stature. 

These islanders, most probably, ori- 



TO CHINA. 121 

ginated from Japan or Corea, having a 
good deal of the Corean lineaments, but 
rather milder, and softened down. They 
are obviously not of Chinese origin, having 
nothing whatever of that drowsy and elon- 
gated eye which peculiarly distinguishes 
the latter ; nor would it seem that the few 
Chinese and their descendants settled on 
the island freely mixed with the native Lew- 
chewans, the national features and the 
natural disposition of the two people being 
perfectly distinct, and differing in every 
respect. Neither have they any mixture of 
Indian blood, being quite as fair as the 
southern Europeans ; even those who are 
most exposed being scarcely so swarthy 
as the same class of society in Spain or 
Portugal . 

The Chinese language is learnt by a few, 
as the French is in our own country ; but 
the Bonzes, or priests, who are also school- 
masters, teach the boys their native lan- 
guage, which is a dialect of the Japanese, 
and is rather soft and harmonious ; and they 
have nothing of that hesitation in utterance, 
or appearance of choking, which is observed 



122 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

in the former, often requiring the action of 
the hands to assist the tongue*. The orders 
and records of government are in their own, 
or Japanese character; but they have books 
in the Chinese language. 

They burn the bodies of their dead, and 
deposit their bones in urns, (at least in our 
neighbourhood,) in natural vaults, or 
caverns of the rocks along the sea-shore. 
The graves of the few Chinese residents here 
are formed in their own style. 

Crimes are said to be very unfrequent 
among them, and they seem to go perfectly 
unarmed, for we observed no warlike in- 
struments of any description ; and our 
guns, shot, and musketry, appeared to be 
objects of great wonder to them. It must 
have been the policy of the Chinese to 
disarm them, for it appears that, in the 
first instance, they defended themselves 
nobly against their attacks, as well as those 
of the Japanese. Not even a bow or arrow 



* In this respect the Chinese seem to resemble what 
is said of a Frenchman : — That if his hands are tied he 
cannot speak. 



TO CHINA. 123 

was to be seen ; and, when they observed 
the effect of fowling-pieces in the hands of 
some of the gentlemen, they begged they 
might not kill the birds, which they were 
always glad to see flying abont their houses ; 
and if we required them to eat, they would 
send in their stead an additional, quantity 
of fowls on board every day. An order 
was immediately issued by the commanding 
officer to desist from this sort of sporting. 

The people of Tatao and the north-east 
islands are reported to have been in pos- 
session of books previous to the Chinese 
attack on Grand Lewchew, and to have 
been even more polished than in the prin- 
cipal island. Tatao and Ki-ki-ai are said 
to produce a sort of cedar, termed kien- 
mou by the Chinese, and iseki by the inha- 
bitants, which is considered incorruptible, 
and brings a great price, the columns of 
the palaces of the grandees being generally 
formed of it. 

A remarkable production is found on 
this island, about the size of a cherry-tree, 
bearing flowers, which, alternately on the 
same day, assume the tint of the rose or 
the lily, as they are exposed to the sun- 



124 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

shine or the shade. The bark of this tree 
is of a deep green, and the flowers bear a 
resemblance to our common roses. Some 
of our party, whose powers of vision were 
strong (assisted by vigorous imagina- 
tions) fancied, that by attentive watching, 
the change of hue from white to red, under 
the influence of the solar ray, was actually 
perceptible to the eye; — that they altered 
their colour, however, in the course of a 
few hours was very obvious. 

The vessels of these islands, in the gene- 
ral appearance of their hulls and plan of 
rigging and sails, are precisely the same as 
we had observed throughout the whole of 
our track from the Gulf of Pe-tche-lee to 
Napa-kiang. They had, in common use, 
canoes hollowed from the trunk of a tree, 
much the same in shape as those of other 
parts of the world where they are employed, 
and of sufficient size to contain easily from 
six to eight or ten people. For purposes 
of heavier burden, they had boats strongly 
built, and rather flat-bottomed. 

In these boats they brought our water, 
bullocks, and other stock, on board. The 
water was not sent in barrels, but in open 



TO CHINA. J 25 

tubs, and baled from these into our 
casks. 

During our stay here, the Lyra was de- 
tached by the Commodore, in consequence 
of the people having told us that there was 
a closer and more secure harbour to the 
northward, to circumnavigate and examine 
the coast of the great island ; which service 
Captain Hall performed, and returned to 
Napa-kiang, in seven days. 

The state of cultivation was represented 
as very fine on Sugar-loaf Island, (that 
which we first made on the day of our ar- 
rival), and a town was observed, which had 
a very handsome appearance from the sea ; 
trees, as usual, filling up the interstices 
between the houses, which rose from the 
water- side to the foot of the high land. 

About twelve miles easterly from this 
island they anchored near an islet, which 
was named Herbert's Isle ; and from thence 
proceeded in the boats to examine what 
seemed to be the mouth of a river; it is 
reported that within this place the depth 
was not less than ten fathoms, the whole 
passage being narrow, and the direction 



126 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

tortuous ; in fact they here discovered a har- 
bour, not inferior in any respect, and in 
some superior, to Port Mahon, in Minorca. 
The banks of this winding arm of the sea 
are high rocks, overgrown with climbing 
plants and flowers. It has, moreover, the 
advantage of Mahon of having a second 
outlet or communication with the sea : it 
being discovered that an island in the mouth 
of a deep indent in the coast of the main 
island formed a circumnavigable passage, 
with safe anchorage in every part of it, and 
a sufficient depth of Avater for the largest 
class of ships, with good holding ground. 
It was named Port Melville. 

In glens, formed by the opening of the 
rocks on its right bank, were observed 
several little villages, prettily situated ; and 
the inhabitants were found to be the same 
civil creatures as on every other part of the 
island. 

The north-eastern parts of the great Lew- 
chew would appear not to be so populous, 
and therefore not so much cultivated, as 
the south-western side, or Cheouli, a 
greater extent of forest land being noticed; 



TO CHINA. 127 

and on the western side also seemed to be 
the best and safest places for anchorages. 

A few days previous to our leaving the 
island, intimation was sent that a man of 
the first distinction (said to be one of the 
princes, and nearest heir to the crown) in- 
tended paying a visit to the ship. He was 
carried down to the mouth of the little river, 
opposite to the anchorage, in a close chair, 
or palanquin, amidst an immense concourse 
of people, who had flocked from all parts to 
this spot. He embarked in great state, in 
their own boats, with their flags flying ; and 
was saluted, on his approach to the ships, by 
seven guns from each, and received on board 
the Alceste with every possible mark of 
respect and attention ; the rigging being 
manned, and the officers in full dress. He 
was above the usual size of theLewchewans, 
and had rather more of the European cast cff 
countenance. His robe was of a dark pink- 
coloured silk ; the cap rather lighter, with 
bright yellow lozenges on it. In his mien 
and deportment there was much dignified 
simplicity ; for, although his carriage was 
that of a man of high rank, it was totally 



128 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

unmixed with the least appearance of 
hauteur ; and his demeanour was, alto- 
gether, extremely engaging. 

As he passed along the decks, his own 
people saluted him by kneeling ; clasping 
the hands before their breasts and bowing 
the head. He examined minutely every 
thing about the ship, and seemed equally 
pleased and surprised with all he saw. 
After joining in a sumptuous collation in 
the cabin, he took his leave with the same 
honours as when he came on board, 
having previously invited the captain and 
officers to an entertainment on shore. 
The day appointed for this feast hap- 
pening to be the 25th of October, the 
anniversary of our venerable Sovereign's 
accession to the throne, a royal salute was 
fired, at sun-rise, by both ships ; at noon 
the standard was hoisted, the ships dressed 
in colours, and another salute fired ; after 
which the boats, with their flags flying, 
containing the captains and every officer 
that could possibly be spared, proceeded 
into Napa-kiang. 

They were received precisely as on the 



TO CHINA. 129 

former occasion, except that the number 
of grandees was greater, and there ap- 
peared a higher degree of state. The 
prince received the party at the gate, and 
conducted them into the hall. Three tables 
were laid close to each other ; the first for 
the great man and the captains, the second 
for the superior officers, and the third for 
the young gentlemen. This prince, or 
chief, did the honours of his own table, 
occasionally directing his attention to the 
others ; but a man of some rank was 
added to each of them, for the purpose of 
seeing the strangers properly treated, as well 
as to pass and proclaim the toasts ; and for 
this purpose they were allowed to be 
seated, all the rest standing round the 
room, but, at the same time, joining 
heartily in the general mirth and glee. 
The healths of our King and Royal Family 
were toasted with much respect, and the 
anniversary of his Majesty's accession was 
a day of real jubilee at Napafoo. The 
sovereign of Lewchew, the queen and 
princes, were proposed by our party; 
whilst our hosts (never deficient in politeness) 

K 



130 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

toasted the wives and children of their 
friends the Engelees. In dining on board 
the ship, Captain Maxwell had given con- 
fectionary to those who were married, in 
parcels, proportioned to the number of 
children they had; and on this occasion 
they returned the compliment ; in the dis- 
tribution of which the greybeards were 
highly amused on observing some of the 
young midshipmen acquiring at once wives 
and large families. 

Some personal presents from the cap- 
tains were on this day offered to the 
chiefs, consisting of various articles as 
before, adding some damask table-cloths, 
and elegantly cut decanters and glasses, 
which they seemed greatly to admire. Spe- 
cimens of their manufactures in cloth were 
sent on board the ships in return. 

At their departure, the prince attended 
the party nearly to the landing-place ; and, 
when about to take his leave, two small 
additional presents (at the suggestion of 
Captain Hall) were given to him, as 
memorials. One was a very neat pocket 
thermometer (the use of the larger ones 



TO CHINA. 131 

having been explained to him on board), 
and the other a cornelian seal set in gold, 
with a ribband attached to each ; they 
were hung round his neck ; and the cere- 
mony, being in public, had the appear- 
ance of investing him with an order, with 
which he seemed to be highly gratified. 
As the boats shoved off from the landing- 
place, the crews, whom they had hand- 
somely entertained, gave them three cheers, 
which they returned in their own style of 
salutation ; and in this manner followed 
the boats along the pier, to the mouth of 
the river. They had sent on board the 
ship a great number of coloured paper 
lanterns, for the purpose of illuminating 
her at night, in honour of our King. This 
was done after dark, the lanterns being 
regularly ranged along the yards and 
rigging, the main-deck ports illuminated, 
sky-rockets thrown up, and blue lights 
burnt at the yard-arms, bowsprit, and 
spanker-boom ends, with a feu-de-joie 
of musquetry, thrice repeated round the 
ship. The whole had a very brilliant 
effect from the shore, where thousands of 
k 2 



132 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

the natives had collected to view this 
display. 

The occurrences of this day, so novel 
and remarkable, will often be recalled 
with delight by all who witnessed the 
pleasing scene of two people differing 
widely in national manners, language, 
and dress; distinct, in fact, in every thing 
that is exterior, yet so harmoniously 
united in hearty good-will and convivial 
friendship. 

The king himself never made his appear- 
ance (at least publicly), but about this 
time a letter was written by him, and 
presented to Captain Maxwell, to be de- 
livered to our Sovereign ; the purport of 
which was to state the happiness he felt 
in having had an opportunity of affording 
an asylum to his ships, and expressing a 
hope that the attentions he had been able 
to shew them during their stay at his 
island, might prove satisfactory to the 
King of the Engelees. 

About this time the boatswain's wife of 
the Alceste, who had been a good deal on 
shore, and was much noticed by the higher 



TO CHINA. 133 

class of natives, had a splendid proposal 
made by a deputation from some great man, 
to remain behind; a grand house to live in, 
and all manner of finery and attentions ; 
great offers were also made to the boat- 
swain to induce him to comply with this 
bargain ; but (after two days' considera- 
tion) the negotiation was broken off on the 
part of the husband, who refused to part 
with her. These proposals most likely 
came from the king, for it is not probable 
that any subject could have entered into a 
treaty of this sort. It was observed, how- 
ever, that the prince who visited the ship, 
very courteously presented her with a fan 
as he passed her on deck. 

A young lady of high rank, who had a 
great curiosity to see this Inago-Engelese, 
or Englishwoman, was brought to her one 
day when she was quite alone, and walked 
round her for a considerable time, eyeing 
her with great appearance of surprise. 

The marriages of this country are not 
managed blindfold, as in China ; but the 
young people are permitted to make their 
own choice, and to communicate without 



134 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

reserve; and the kind manner in which 
they treated their children, indicated the 
full enjoyment of domestic happiness. 

The period of our departure being now 
fixed, all the stores were embarked on the 
evening of the 26th October. The next morn- 
ing, as the ships unmoored, the Lewchew- 
ans, as a mark of respect, arrayed them- 
selves in their best apparel, and, proceeding 
to the temple, offered up to their gods a so- 
lemn sacrifice, invoking them to protect the 
Engekes, to avert every danger, and restore 
them in safety to their native land ! In the 
manner of this adieu there was an air of 
sublimity and benevolence combined, by 
far more touching to the heart than the 
most refined compliment of a more civi- 
lized people. It was the genuine benignity 
of artless nature, and of primitive inno- 
cence. Immediately following this so- 
lemnity, our particular friends crowded on 
board to shake hands, and say " Farewell V 
whilst the tears which many of them shed, 
evinced the sincerity of their attachment. 
Even hard-faced Buonaparte was not un- 
moved ; and, as the ships got under weigh, 






TO CHINA. 135 

they lingered alongside in their canoes, dis- 
playing every sign of affectionate regard. 

We stood out to seaward ; and, the breeze 
being favourable, this happy island soon 
sunk from the view ; but it will be long re- 
membered by all the officers and men of 
the Alceste and Lyra; for the kindness and 
hospitality of its inhabitants have fixed upon 
every mind a deep and lasting impression 
of gratitude and esteem. 



136 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 



CHAP. IV. 



Passage from Lewchewto Canton — Discuss weighty 
Matters with the Chinese Authorities — Result 
of these Discussions — Observations on the 
Chinese People. 

STANDING between what had been 
termed Lyra's Reef (where she had been so 
nearly lost) and the Isles of Amakirrima, 
we pursued our course to the south-west- 
ward. On the next day we saw Typinsan, 
one of the most considerable of the Lew- 
chewan group. 

It was on some reefs not far distant from 
this island, that the Providence, sloop-of- 
war was wrecked in the year 1797, whilst 
employed on a voyage of discover}^ in these 
seas. Having a little schooner in company, 
the lives of the people were fortunately 
saved ; but the very small quantity of water 
and provisions in this vessel, with such a 



TO CHINA. 137 

sudden addition to her crew, rendered it 
absolutely necessary to apply to the natives 
here for assistance. 

Captain Broughton says, " After an- 
choring the schooner, a canoe immedi- 
ately came off to us, and to them we 
expressed our wants, which they seemed to 
comprehend, as they left us directly and 
soon after returned with water. 

" From the vessel we could see two large 
villages ; and a boat, with an officer, went 
to each of them. They were received in 
the most friendly manner, and the boats 
returned full of water. In the afternoon 
they sent in canoes a much larger quantity, 
with some wood and large packages of 
canary seed *, also some poultry and pigs, 
without asking for any thing in return, or 
seeming to expect it. They strongly ex- 
pressed a desire for us to proceed to the 
eastern village, where they could more con- 
veniently supply our wants, whither we pro- 
ceeded and were made welcome with a boat- 
load of wood and three large hogs. After 



*T 



his was most probably millet. 



138 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

breakfast on the following day, we paid a 
visit on shore to our humane friends, who 
received us with the greatest civility in a 
large and convenient house, well adapted 
to the country : the floors were matted, and 
every thing relating to the furniture ex- 
tremely neat. On these mats we sat in the 
oriental custom, and partook of the refresh- 
ments they offered, such as tea, pipes and 
tobacco. 

" Several venerable old men encircled 
our party, dressed in large loose gowns of 
fine manufacture, similar to tiffany, of va- 
rious colours, and different patterns. These 
flowing garments »were tied round the middle 
with a sash ; and they also wore trowsers 
and sandals. The crown of their heads 
were shaved, and the hair from behind 
brought up to a knot on the top, and se- 
curely fastened by metal pins in the Malay 
style. They made use of fans universally; 
and some wore neat straw hats, tied under 
the chin. The aged men had most respect- 
able beards. 

" The house appeared to belong to the 
principal people, and was in an elevated 



TO CHINA. 139 

situation, at some little distance from the 
sea, environed by a square wall of stones, 
twelve feet high, with a gateway to enter 
by, over which was a guard-house. The 
rooms were spacious, opening on the sides, 
with projecting balconies. We found no 
difficulty in making them comprehend our 
wants ; but extreme satisfaction in finding 
they had not only the inclination, but the 
power of supplying them. 

" We were desirous of walking about the 
town, but this they strongly objected to, 
nor could all our persuasions induce them : 
not wishing to give any offence we gave up 
the point, and proceeded in the boat, some 
distance to the watering-place, where we 
found the inhabitants most cheerfully as- 
sisting our people in drawing water from 
a stone well, that had been made for water- 
ing the adjacent plantations/'' 

The account also relates that a party was 
sent in the boats to examine that part of 
the coast, where they conjectured any pro- 
visions from the ship might have drifted 
on shore, but without success. This party 
landed on another little island which they 



140 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

found inhabited and cultivated, but inac- 
cessible except at one part. They found 
here human skulls in caverns, among the 
rocks which (from being unacquainted with 
this mode of depositing the bones of their 
dead) they imagined were the remains of 
some shipwrecked people, not so fortunate 
as themselves. 

Here also the natives had water and po- 
tatoes ready for them on landing, and 
otherwise treated them with great civility. 

Having received a number of bags of 
wheat, of rice, and sweet potatoes, with a 
bullock, some hogs, plenty of poultry, and 
even jars to hold their water, they prepared 
for their departure. " When the schooner 
was ready for sailing" (says the narrative), 
" we paid our last visit, carrying with us 
some trifling presents, the most acceptable 
we had. We endeavoured to make them 
comprehend how sensible we were of their 
kind attention, and I believe we succeeded, 
as they accepted our gifts with great satis- 
faction, particularly a drawing of the ship 
and a telescope. 

" After partaking of their refreshments, 



TO CHINA. 141 

these venerable old men accompanied us 
to the beach, where the long-boat, com- 
pletely rigged and fitted with sails, lay 
at anchor, ready for their acceptance. 
They received her with great joy, and 
directly took possession. 

" Thus did we part most amicably with 
these humane civilized people, not unaf- 
fected by the favours we had received 
from them in our distressed situation.'" 

It also appears that on touching at another 
of these Islands, about sixty miles farther to 
the westward, the inhabitants must have 
heard of their misfortune, for here likewise 
they were ready with refreshments for them. 

The same manners, character, and dis- 
position seem, therefore, to prevail among 
the inhabitants of all the Lewchewan Isles, 
and it is also worthy of remark, that their 
treatment of the crew of the Providence, 
who had no force, but, on the contrary, 
were helpless and distressed, could only 
have proceeded from the purest spirit of 
benevolence. 

On the 30th, we descried Botel Tobago 
Xima, rising high, rugged and precipitous 



142 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

from the sea, and very much resembling, in its 
general features, St. Helena. Passing to the 
northward of it, we discovered, on the same 
day, the island of Formosa. The south- 
east part (that which we saw) is extremely 
high and mountainous, as, indeed, the whole 
of it is represented to be ; and with the wind 
at N. E., as we then had it, and blowing 
strong, the surf rolled in with dreadful force 
upon the reefs extending from it. The 
western parts of Formosa are under the 
dominion of the Chinese, but the eastern 
shores are still occupied by the aboriginal 
inhabitants. They are stated to be in a 
very uncivilized condition; that they can 
run with the swiftness of a greyhound ; and 
are such expert marksmen with the bow and 
arrow, as to kill a pheasant on the wing 
with the greatest certainty. The water of 
the island is considered most insalubrious. 
The mode of courtship here is rather 
odd : When a young man fixes his affections, 
he hovers about the house where the object 
of his regard resides, and plays upon some 
musical instrument, which signal the lady 
answers by coming out to meet him, and 



TO CHINA. 143 

settle the matter, provided he is to her 
taste ; should it be otherwise, she takes no 
notice, the gentleman whittles in vain, and 
must try his fortune elsewhere. The bride- 
grooms here transfer their filial duty to their 
fathers-in-law, and, in fact, are considered, 
after the marriage, as part of the wife's 
family. Captain Broughton remarked that, 
instead of boats or canoes, they used small 
floats in fishing here, composed of bam- 
boos lashed together, about twenty feet by 
six, the mast in a wooden step in the cen- 
tre ; and they appear to sail fast, each float 
containing three men. It is somewhat sin- 
gular that on the coast of Tartary we 
observed the same sort of rafts, though not 
formed of bamboos. Becoming too dark 
to see our way between the south end of this 
island, and the rocks of Vele Rete, we bore 
up, until, by our run, we were fairly to 
the southward of this danger, and then 
hauled to the wind on the starboard tack. 
The passage across the Straits of Formosa 
was boisterous in the extreme, blowing a 
severe gale at N. E., with that sort of tum- 
bling sea felt in many other parts of the 



144 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

world, and which is infinitely more trying 
to ships than the long expansive swell of 
the wider ocean. The Alceste was a good 
deal injured, and the Lyra had nearly 
foundered, the foretop-sides giving way, 
and sustaining other damage. On the 2d 
November saw the grand Lemma ; and on 
the same day pushed up to the anchorage, 
at the island of Lin tin, without a pilot. 
Here we remained unnoticed for some days, 
when a number of men-of-war junks an- 
chored near us, and a mandarin (their 
admiral) came on board, who, after the 
usual interrogatories, promised that a pass 
and pilot should be sent to us, to proceed 
up the river. In the time of Lord Anson, 
the Typa, near Macao, was of sufficient 
depth to receive the Centurion, a sixty- 
gun ship ; but, at the present day, no 
frigate of large size can with propriety 
enter it, having become much shallower 
from the deposition of mud. To have 
brought up the provisions and stores for the 
use of the ships, which had been left at that 
place, (subject to the conjoined imposi- 
tions of the Chinese and Portuguese,) in 



TO CHINA. 145 

hired vessels, would have been expensive : 
the Lyra, therefore, was ordered down for 
that purpose. 

We soon began to experience the invete- 
rate ill-will of the viceroy, or Tsong-tou, of 
Canton, who, well aware that the object of 
the embassy was, in a great measure, directed 
against his extortions, and those of his 
myrmidons, on our commerce, naturally 
entertained the most perfect hatred and 
detestation for any ship attached to such a 
mission. The people of Lintin (no doubt 
by the influence of their superiors) dammed 
up the course of the water ; and it was not 
until sentries were placed along the little 
stream, to keep it clear, that we were en- 
abled to fill our casks. The Comprador, 
or the person employed to supply ships with 
provisions and necessaries, could only 
smuggle himself on board after dark ; and 
then hurried away trembling, for fear of 
being found near us at daylight with his 
boats. His master, (or partner,) Aming, 
had very lately been tortured, imprisoned, 
and fined ; or, to use the Chinese phrase, 
squeezed in a very heavy sum, on suspicion 

L 



146 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

that he knew of the intention of the captains 
of some Indiamen to proceed into the city, 
in order to present a memorial to the 
viceroy ; and that he had not given infor- 
mation of this circumstance, that it might 
have been prevented. It seems the viceroy, 
in malicious feeling to the General Hewitt, 
because she had been connected with the 
embassy, would not permit her to load, 
under pretence that she was a tribute ship ; 
that she must wait to carry back the unac- 
cepted presents, and of course could have 
no room for teas. Had it even been 
intended that she should carry back the pre- 
sents (which was not the case, as, in the 
event of their not being received, they 
were to be otherwise disposed of), still they 
would not have occupied the tenth part of 
her tonnage ; and, besides all this, it was 
no business of the viceroy to intermeddle 
with the arrangements about the unaccepted 
tribute. The senior captain of the India- 
men, attended by a party of his brother 
officers, and some of the gentlemen of the 
factory, on finding other measures vain, 
proceeded, therefore, to make a personal 



TO CHINA. 147 

application to the viceroy, and to present 
a memorial, stating the great hardship and 
unreasonableness of this prohibition. This 
bold manoeuvre, however, was unattended 
with success ; and so far from the memo- 
rial being received they were treated with 
every indignity, and hooted by the people. 
The General Hewitt was guarded with more 
rigour than ever, being surrounded by war 
junks ; and, previous to our arrival, Capt. 
Colin Campbell, of the navy, who, being 
unemployed, accompanied his brother in 
this voyage, with all who happened to be 
on board, were detained prisoners, at the 
second bar, for more than live weeks. 

On the 7th another mandarin came on 
board, who disclaimed any knowledge of 
the former, or what he had promised, 
stating, through the medium of an inter- 
preter, (who seemed himself a man of 
some little consequence, and who evi- 
dently enjoyed peculiar satisfaction in re- 
peating whatever was galling to the feel- 
ings of a Briton), that he had been making 
fools of 2is about sending a pass; that the 
Embassador had been sent away in dis- 



148 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

grace from Pekin ; that he must soon 
arrive here, when he would be immediately 
sent on board, and dismissed with all the 
English ships from the country, and so 
forth ; adding that we must remain at our 
present anchorage, not attempting to pass 
up the river; and even,- during our stay 
here, it would be necessary to have a 
security-merchant to answer for our good 
conduct. The latter part of this rhodo- 
montade about a security-merchant for the 
king's ship, Captain Maxwell begged might 
not be repeated, unless they wished to be 
thrown overboard ; quietly telling them he 
would wait a reasonable time longer for the 
viceroy to send down a pass, or chop, to 
proceed up the river, which he was de- 
sirous of doing for two reasons: 1st, The 
ship required caulking and other repairs, 
which it was impossible to accomplish in 
her present unprotected and exposed situa- 
tion. Next, the Lion, in the former em- 
bassy, had been admitted to a place of 
safety ; and the emperor having, in the 
first instance, expressed his pleasure that 
the Alceste should have the same re- 



TO CHINA. 149 

ception, it could only be considered an 
indignity to be excluded ; and would be 
a bad precedent. They now became a little 
more cool ; and, after some desultory con- 
versation, took their leave : but previously 
Captain Maxwell insisted on their admit- 
ting (to exclude them from all shuffling), 
that, if a pass was not sent down within 
a certain time, he was to take it for 
granted that leave was given. 

That time arrived without the least no- 
tice being taken of us ; and the pilot who 
had come on board, in the hope of carry- 
ing us up, sneaked off in the dark, say- 
ing it was dangerous for him to have any 
connexion with us . 

Against an open attack a British com- 
mander can never be at a loss how to act; 
but the present was a most trying and em- 
barrassing case, and imposed a very heavy 
and serious weight of responsibility. That 
His Majesty's ship should be supplied by 
an unauthorized individual under cover of 
night, and by stealth, was not to be en- 
dured ; to be denied admission to the har- 
bour, and detained in an unprecedented 



150 VOYAGE OF 11. M. S. ALCESTE 

manner, at this season of the year, in an 
open and dangerous road, could not be 
viewed but as an act of absolute hos- 
tility; and to all this were added sneering 
insult, and contempt, of the most mortify- 
ing kind. 

To have waited longer for an explicit 
answer would have been vain ; for a 
Chinese who could so far forget himself, 
even in the most common occasions of 
intercourse, as to give a frank, ingenuous, 
and undesigning reply to any communica- 
tion, would be considered by his own 
countrymen a fool, and by foreigners a 
prodigy. 

They are a people, who, by early edu- 
cation and constant habit, are ?nan(zuvrers, 
and always enjoy a much higher satis- 
faction in obtaining any purpose by fraud, 
trick, and overreaching, than by the most 
direct, candid, or honourable means ; and 
afford a strong exemplification of the dis- 
tinction between low cunning and true 
wisdom. 

On the other hand, the king's represen- 
tative was in their power, and this circum- 



TO CHINA. 151 

stance rendered a decision on the case still 
more difficult; but it was equally clear 
that the government- which attempted to 
dishonour the flag would not respect the 
Embassador ; and experience has fully 
proved, that the tame submission of other 
nations has only added to the arrogance, 
and fostered the insolence of the Chinese. 
This, perhaps, was the impression on 
Captain Maxwell's mind, when he got 
under weigh on the 12 th ; but not a word 
was expressed. ' The examination, how- 
ever, of the locks and flints on the car- 
ronades by the gunner, with a few other 
minor preparations, were hailed as auspi- 
cious omens, and excited the most pleasing 
hopes ; for the Chinese have no foreign 
friends ; every seaman, whether of the 
navy or merchant's service, from expe- 
rience of their faithless conduct, consider- 
ing himself in a state of warfare from the 
moment he enters their territory. We got 
up as far as Lankeet Flat that night, 
without a pilot; but Mr. Mayne, the 
master, who knew the ground, volunteered 
to carry up the ship as far as she could 



152 VOYAGE OF II. H. 8. ALCESTE 

swim. Here we anchored for the night, 
and spoke the Cornwall Indiaman, bound 
homewards. 

About two o'clock P. M. next day we 
again weighed, the flood tide serving, and 
beat up towards the Bocca Tigris, or 
Bogue, then distant a few miles. The 
Bocca Tigris is the mouth of the principal 
branch of that river, on which Canton is 
situated, and where it is contracted to 
about the breadth of the Thames at 
London ; but the banks are formed by 
high land, more especially on the east 
side. 

The fortifications on this pass were for- 
merly insignificant, and allowed to remain 
in a very dismantled state; but lately they 
have been repaired and strengthened with 
much care ; an additional battery of forty 
guns being built, rather farther up, and on 
the same side with old Annan-hoy ; a 
hundred and ten pieces of cannon, of dif- 
ferent calibres, being at present mounted 
on these forts, including that of the island 
of Wangtong opposite, the whole three 
being able to keep up a cross fire, as they 



TO CHINA. 



153 



are within half-gunshot of each other, with 
a garrison at this time of about 1,200 men. 
Chumpee, which lies in a corner farther 
down, has about twelve or fourteen guns ; 
but a ship may keep out of reach of them. 
As we advanced, some war-junks formed a 
line off Chumpee, and were soon after 
.joined by several more, making altogether 
seventeen or eighteen. They carry, on an 
average, six guns, with from sixty to eighty 
men each. About this time (five o'clock) 
the same loquacious linguist before men- 
tioned came on board from the mandarins, 
and desired, in a high and domineering 
tone, that the ship should be directly 
anchored ; and stating that, if we pre- 
sumed to pass up the river, the batteries 
would instantly sink her ; availing himself, 
at the same time, of that favourable oppor- 
tunity, to express his personal sense of low 
consideration for us, and plainly telling the 
captain he thought him very impertinent. 
The latter calmly observed that he would 
first pass the batteries, and then hang him 
at the yard-arm, for daring to bring on 
board a British man-of-war so impudent a 



154 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

message : his boat was then cut adrift, 
and himself taken into custody. The 
junks now commenced firing blank cart- 
ridge, which we returned with three guns 
from the ship, affecting to consider this as 
a mere salute. On the next tack we passed 
close to these warriors, who remained 
quiet until we got inside of them, and 
opened Chum pee ; when that fort, little 
Annan-hoy, and the junks (now under 
weigh), began to fire at us with shot. At 
this moment the wind becoming light and 
baffling, we were obliged to drop anchor 
in Anson's bay, in order to hold the 
ground we had gained, and that they 
might not suppose they had driven us 
back ; and in the act of wearing for this 
purpose, we gave the admiral of the junks 
a single shot only, by way of a hint*. The 
forts immediately ceased firing; and their 



* This first shot was fired by the Captain's own hand, 
that, in the event of the Chinese demanding those who 
fired, instead of those who ordered, or of seizing upon any 
innocent person, he might fully place himself in the situa- 
tion of being individually responsible for all consequences. 



TO CHINA. 155 

junks anchoring near us, all remained 
quiet until a little after eight o'clock, when 
a light breeze sprung up, which enabled us 
to lay our course, and the anchor was 
again weighed. The moment this was ob- 
served by the junks, they beat their gongs, 
fired guns, and threw up sky-rockets, to 
give the alarm, and in an instant the bat- 
teries were completely illuminated, dis- 
playing lanterns as large as moderate-sized 
balloons, (the finest mark imaginable for 
us), commencing also a warm, but ill- 
directed fire, from both sides. Steering 
a steady course, the ship returned a slow 
and regular fire, as the guns could be got 
to bear, without yawing her. 

From the lightness of the breeze, which 
the cannonade seemed to lessen, it was a 
considerable time before we got abreast of 
the largest battery. At last, when within 
pistol-shot of the angle of it, and just be- 
fore they could get all their guns to bear 
into the ship, a whole broadside, with cool 
aim, was poured in among them, the two- 
and-thirty pounders rattling the stones 
about their ears in fine style, and giving 



156 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

them at the same time three roaring 
cheers. 

This salvo was decisive at this particular 
point ; their lights disappeared in a twink- 
ling, and they were completely silenced ; 
but from the island opposite they still con- 
tinued their fire, the balls which passed 
over and around us striking New Annan- 
hoy, which had thereby the full benefit of 
their own as well as our shot. 

Soon after this our point was gained ; and, 
standing up the river, we displayed our 
stern to these gentlemen. It is somewhat 
extraordinary that it should have been 
gained so easily ; for, notwithstanding we 
were nearly an hour wrangling in this nar- 
row passage, not a man (on our side) was 
killed, the ship only hulled twice, and some 
trifling damage done to the rigging. Al- 
most any European gunners, with the same 
advantages, would have blown the frigate 
out of the water. During this affair, the 
flashing of the guns on the glassy surface 
of the river, and the rolling echo of their 
reports along the adjoining hills, had a very 
grand and animating effect, and reminded 



TO CHINA. 157 

our people of other days. The Chinese 
linguist, who had crawled below when he 
saw matters taking a serious turn, and 
having observed there was no joking in the 
case, began in real earnest to think, as one 
part of the promise had been fulfilled, that 
his time had now arrived. Coming trem- 
bling upon deck, he prostrated himself, 
and, kissing the Captain's feet, begged for 
mercy. At that moment, hearing the order 
given to " stand by the larboard guns for 
" Tiger Island," (on which we then sup- 
posed there was a battery,) he said, with a 
rueful countenance, " What ! no hab done 
" yet?" " Not half done" was the reply: 
" How many guns have you got on Tiger 
" Island V — but, without waiting to answer 
this question, (or indeed reflecting in his 
perturbation that there were none at all,) 
he wrung his hands, groaned heavily, and 
dived again below. 

We stood on for some miles further, and 
then anchored. The Chinese, no doubt 
were rather astonished to find that we could 
not only pass their forts, but sail up the 



158 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

river, even in the dark without a pilot. — The 
truth is, Chinese pilots are utterly useless, 
and although all our ships are obliged to 
receive them on board, and pay them, yet 
they must trust entirely to their own ma- 
nagement. Next morning, before day, we 
found ourselves surrounded by their grand 
fleet; but they were wise enough to make no 
attack ; for, having now broken the ice, it was 
too late for half-measures, and there was 
plenty of grape at hand to pick their teeth, 
had they offered the least molestation. 

Half-measures seem to be a bad system 
in any dealings, but more especially with 
uncivilized people, for they are apt to attri- 
bute forbearance to fear, and acquire, under 
that impression, fresh courage. 

When the late Admiral Drury was in- 
duced to make a show of force at Canton, 
but was withheld, by circumstances, from 
proceeding to actual hostilities, there was 
no end to their gasconading ; they consi- 
dered his retiring as a great victory gained, 
and it is celebrated as such by an inscrip- 
tion in one of their pagodas. 



TO CHINA. 159 

On the morning of the 15th, the Alceste 
anchored among the Indiamen at second 
bar, still attended, but with perfect respect, 
by their fleet. 

In the evening, Captain Maxwell, at- 
tended by two gentlemen of the ship, pro- 
ceeded in person to Canton to demand 
satisfaction (after having taken it) for the 
insult offered in firing upon the king's ship. 
On their way up they remained one evening 
with Captain Campbell, of the Hewitt, and 
on that night, the news of the business with 
the batteries having become public, much 
alarm was at first excited at Canton, as to 
the consequences of this measure ; but the 
next morning they were agreeably surprised 
by the appearance of several tea-junks 
alongside, with part of her cargo ; the vice- 
roy having given permission for her to load 
immediately ! — It also came to pass that the 
said viceroy thought proper to send down 
to the frigate, on this day, a high mandarin, 
attended by one of the Hong merchants, to 
wait upon the captain to welcome him into 
the river, and compliment him with all pos- 
sible politeness ! 



160 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

It appeared, therefore, that the late head- 
thumping ceremony produced both tea and 
civility ; and, most probably, it is the only 
mode of Ko-towing *, by which we will ever 
receive either, on reasonable terms, from 
the Chinese. They affect in their usual 
disingenuous cant, to despise our com- 
merce ; they say they could do perfectly 
well without it, and it is a mere matter of 
grace and favour that we are permitted to 
approach their shores, and carry on a trade 

* Ko-tow is the ceremony exacted from all tributary 
princes and embassadors on approaching the presence 
of the emperor, and consists in kneeling, placing the 
hands forward, and then knocking the head thrice against 
the ground. The patient now stands upright, and, by word 
of command, kneels and knocks again, and afterwards a 
third time, making, in all, three prostrations, and nine 
thumps; on which the music strikes up the tune of " Sub- 
jugation manifested! a glorious subjugation!" ( Ellis's 
Account of the Embassy) : and this is required not merely 
in the imperial presence, but on receiving any message, 
or donation of broken victuals, from the emperor, and 
the Dutch Embassy (whom they lodged in a stable,) ac- 
tually performed this ceremony for some half-gnawed 
bones in 1 795, without gaining a single point. (Vide Van 
Braam's own account.) A man, to be much about court 
in China, would require a skull as thick as a buffalo's. 



TO CHINA. 1G1 

highly to our advantage ; but, when the 
company's agents were lately driven to the 
necessity of abandoning Canton, of stop- 
ping the trade, and giving up all concern 
with them, having actually taken their de- 
parture, struck the flag and flag-staff, and 
were on their way down the river, the 
Chinese authorities became alarmed, and 
sent after them to beg they would return, 
making such fair promises as patched up, 
for a time, their differences. Neither will 
they trade honestly, or say at once there is 
an end of all intercourse ; and day after day 
we are trifled with and insulted by them. 

The removal of our trade for a single 
year, and the appearance of a few of our 
lightest cruizers on their coasts, would throw 
the whole of this celestial empire into con- 
fusion ; for they are not prepared for the 
loss that would occur in the one case, nor 
to meet the tumult and convulsion that 
would be excited by the destruction of their 
fisheries and coasting trade in the other. 
So feeble is their naval power, that, after 
warring with the pirates for many years, 
who chased their vessels up the river, and 

M 



162 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

sacked the towns and villages within a few 
miles of Canton, they were at last obliged 
to compromise with them, bribing the whole 
to be quiet, and making their chiefs first- 
chop mandarins. 

Krusenstern, the intelligent Russian navi- 
gator, who had occasion, in his voyage 
round the world, to touch at this port, 
where he experienced much vexation and 
insult, says, with great truth and pro- 
priety, what all equally feel, that " the 
forbearance and mistaken lenity of the 
greater civilized powers have emboldened 
these savages, not only to consider as bar- 
barians all Europeans, but actually to treat 
them as such/' 

Captain Maxwell, on arriving at the city, 
sent in a strong note to the viceroy on the 
subject of his rudeness to the ship, which 
the latter answered by a letter from the 
Hong merchants to Sir Theophilus Met- 
calfe, the chief of the factory, who told the 
merchants, that, having no control over the 
king's officers, he neither could receive nor 
communicate it. The Hong people next 
applied to Captain Maxwell personally, 



TO CHINA. 1G3 

with their letter of explanation about the 
fracas that had occurred ; but he refused 
to receive either them or their letter, on the 
ground that Chinese merchants were not 
the proper channel of communication be- 
tween him and the viceroy. There the 
matter rested. The substance of this epistle 
was known to be some flimsy excuse about 
a mistake in sending down the chop or pass, 
which not being received by the mandarins 
at the forts, they were obliged to act ac- 
cording to orders. But Avhat shewed the 
barefaced effrontery of their assertions was 
their public account of the business, whilst 
in the very act of presenting this letter of 
explanation, (for they affect to give a 
public account of all transactions), which 
stated that the affair at the Bogue was a 
mere chin-chinning or saluting matter alto- 
gether. The first report, previous to the 
official fabrication, was forty-seven killed, 
besides a number of men spoiled-'' (wounded), 

* Among these wise and enlightened people, if a man is 
materially spoiled he must die; for they neither will per- 
mit the necessary knowledge to be acquired for the per- 

M 2 



164 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

which probably might be near the truth, 
considering they stood rather thick ; but, 
after the appearance of the edict, it be- 
came a subject on which " no man can talk*." 
This is what the Chinese call " making 
" face" or keeping up appearances, with 
respect to any circumstances they are 
desirous of having reported their own 
way ; and the people on the spot are 
literally ordered not to believe the evidence 
of their own senses, but to take the pro- 



formance of any operation, nor will they allow a stranger, 
who has that knowledge, to save him, but at the risk, of 
his own life ; as, in the event of the patient dying within 
forty days, from that or any other cause, the anatomist 
would certainly be strangled, or, if he had plenty of 
money, well squeezed, at least. 

* There was, however, a good deal of talk, sub rosa, 
upon the subject, and the shot found in the battery 
having been sent up to Canton and weighed, they hai- 
yawed a great deal at what w r e termed our smaller ships 
throwing shot of 25 catties (52lbs.) each, asking seriously 
about the probable consequences of the rejection of the 
embassy, and whether our larger ships could come up the 
river. The last accounts from China state that these 
feelings have rather ncreased than diminished. 



TO CHINA. 165 

clamation or edict * (as it is termed) for 
their guide, which is spread about in other 
parts, and handed down to posterity as 
good history, which no man dares to con- 
tradict. Few, it is supposed, will be cre- 
dulous enough (who have ever been in 
China) to believe, that the people have 
the privilege of criticising the conduct of 
their superiors, or even of remarking 
publicly on the conduct of the Emperor. 
The law which permits them to do so may, 
indeed, be considered as a very severe 
piece of irony on their actual state. 

That the viceroy had an intention of 
insult beyond the mere exclusion of the 
ship is rendered more than probable from 
the circumstance of a number of barges 
having been placed in the back passage to 
Macao, and not in the route of Lord 
Macartney to Canton, which were re- 
moved from that situation immediately 



* Some how or other the word edict has crept into 
general use for any piece of common information, whether 
it is from the Emperor, or has the force of a law or not. 



166 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

after the late occurrence; and likewise 
from the general tenour of his conduct 
throughout. Be this as it may, it would 
clearly have been a triumph to his cause, 
and that of his adherents, that the Em- 
bassador should have arrived at Canton 
with as little eclat and appearance of 
respect as possible; it would have added 
(as exterior is every thing with them) in 
the eyes of the Chinese, as well as foreign- 
ers, to the idea of disgrace and discomfi- 
ture to an obnoxious mission. But the 
advance of the ship to Wampoa not only 
commanded as brilliant an entry for the 
embassy * as ever had been witnessed on 



# That the Chinese did not join in it, is only an addi- 
tional proof that they would have prevented it, had they 
dared ; indeed, a few days before the arrival, of the Embas- 
sador, it became necessary, from their conduct in stoning 
and annoying our boats in passing up and down the river, 
to write to the Viceroy, requesting this practice might be 
discontinued ; and hinting that the next application to him 
would be a personal one. The letter was translated into 
Chinese by Mr. Bannerman, and as a ship employed in 
an embassy is assumed by the Chinese to be, for the 



TO CHINA. 167 

any other occasion; but, what was of equal 
importance, it sustained the dignity of the 



time being, in the service of the Emperor, it was couched 
as follows : — 

" His Britannic Majesty's Ship Alceste, 

" December, 16, 1816. 
" Sir, 

u The very distinguished honour 1 at present enjoy of 
being employed in the service of his Imperial Majesty, 
the Emperor of China, together with the profound re- 
spect and duty I owe to my own Sovereign, must have 
entirely prevented my incurring the risk of any further 
humiliation to their respective services, by addressing a 
second letter to your Excellency, whilst a moon had 
passed away, and my former one, stating the insult and 
outrage offered to both, in the assault made upon this 
ship on the 13th of last November, was still unanswered. 

" But, as the Chinese people, who live in the boats, 
and upon the banks of this river, encouraged, no doubt, 
by the unfriendly and inhospitable conduct of your Ex- 
cellency towards us, have also commenced an attack, by 
using most opprobrious language, making signs as though 
they would cut our heads off, and frequently throwing 
large stones, so as to endanger our lives, when passing 
quietly to and from Canton, it becomes an essential duty 
for me to inform your Excellency that there are limits to 
the patience and forbearance of an English ship of war; 
any trespass beyond which it would be cowardice and 
ignominy to endure. 



168 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

flag, and reduced the viceroy (after offer- 
ing every insult) to the meanness of con- 



" My instructions from my King are most positive to 
treat the Chinese people with the greatest kindness and 
regard, which I have hitherto done, and am anxious to 
continue to do ; but as his Britannic Majesty, when 
giving these gracious orders, could not have anticipated 
that his ship was to be fired upon by Chinese forts and 
fleets, with the view of destroying her; and that his offi- 
cers and men were to be daily exposed to insult and 
injury from the unrestrained licentiousness of the lower 
classes of the people of China, I must endeavour, should 
your Excellency not deem it expedient to put an imme- 
diate stop to these disgraceful and dangerous proceed- 
ings, to act under such unlooked for circumstances, as I 
think will best merit hereafter his Majesty's approbation, 
who always estimates the honour and dignity of his 
crown, by the safety and protection it affords to his 
people in every quarter of the globe. 

u I have the honour to be, 
" Your Excellency's 
" Most obedient and very humble servant, 

" Murray Maxwell." 
" To 

" His Excellency the Viceroy of 
" Canton." 

An edict or order was immediately placarded on 
receipt of this, desiring the people to desist from any 
molestation of the English. 



TO CHINA. 169 

gratulating those who had defied his flotilla 
and battered his fortifications. 

Canton may be considered the most in- 
teresting city in China. It is one of the 
first in point of size, and, perhaps, the very 
first with respect to wealth ; and here, as 
the native manners may be seen in all their 
purity as perfectly as in any other part, the 
traveller has also the advantage of viewing 
them as connected with Europeans, and of 
noticing their brightest efforts of imitative 
genius, which the encouragement afforded 
by the commerce of the place calls forth. 

The number of junks * and boats of all 
descriptions in motion upon the Tigris 
surpasses even the busy scene displayed 
upon the Thames ; for here the boats are 
the only residence of some thousand fami- 
lies, who live entirely on the water, and 
manage to obtain a livelihood, some by 
plying passage, others by fishing and pick- 
ing up floating articles, and not unfre- 
quently by exercising their talents like our 
mud-larks and river pirates. 

# A Chinese junk accords with our conceptions of the 
appearance of Noah's ark. 



170 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

The Pagodas on the banks of the Tigris 
are magnificent objects, and the appearance 
of the river at night, completely illuminated 
by the lamps and lanterns in all the boats, has 
a very pretty effect. Infanticide is said not 
to be so common in China as was at one time 
believed ; but that it actually exists is not 
attempted to be denied even by the Chinese 
themselves ; one of whom, on being inter- 
rogated seriously on this subject, readily 
admitted, without seeming to consider it as 
a crime, that they certainly did drown their 
children when they were so numerous as to 
be inconvenient to them; but that boys 
might be exposed alive, and, if picked up, 
they became coolees or slaves. It would 
appear, therefore, that female children 
are most likely to become the victims in 
this way, from being less useful to their 
parents when they grow up ; for the patri- 
archal law of China considers the sons as 
slaves of their father ; and he is entitled to 
sell them as such, should occasion require. 
The entertainments given by the Hong 
merchants at Canton to their European 
friends are considered to be very super Id. 



TO CHINA. 171 

Seldom fewer than a hundred people sit 
down in the great hall to dinner, which is 
usually dressed in our style, (although they 
have also their chop-stick feasts), and plenty 
of the best viands, wines, and fruits, cover 
the table. Bird-nest soup is also handed 
round as a great treat, to which the Chinese 
attribute very extraordinary and invigo- 
rating qualities. On us, however, it pro- 
duced no unusual effect ; and we should not 
have known it from any other, had it not 
been pointed out. These bird-nests, which 
are collected in the Sunda Archipelago, are 
rather expensive articles, being purchased 
by an equal weight of silver. Their com- 
position is not yet exactly known, but it is 
some gelatinous substance, most likely of 
the vegetable kind, which the swallows 
pick up. They have also a soup made 
from sharks' fins, which they consider a 
great delicacy. People who have an aver- 
sion to dog-eating, cautiously avoid their 
hashes *. 

* The puppies intended for the tabie, which are 
carried about in baskets for sale, have a very sheepish 
look, being covered with a lamblike woolly coat. 

A specie* 



172 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

During the whole of the entertainment, a 
play is performing on a stage erected at one 
end of the hall, the subject of which it is 
difficult, in general, for an European to 
comprehend, even could he attend to it, for 
the deafening noise of their music. By 
collecting together in a small space a dozen 
bulls, the same number of jack-asses, a 
gang of tinkers round a copper caldron, 
some cleavers and marrow-bones, with 
about thirty cats ; then letting the whole 
commence bellowing, biding, hammering, 
and caterwauling together, — some idea 
may be formed of the melody of a Chinese 
orchestra*. Their jugglers are extremely 
adroit, and the tumblers perform uncom- 
mon feats of activity. 

The Chinese government, with regard to 
religion, is tolerant. It appears to be in 
worldly concerns only that it is tyrannical, 
and seems to be indifferent as to what a 

A species of dogs with black tongues, mouths, and 
throats, are likewise very common throughout China. 

* Their softer music, employed at their weddings, and 
other occasions unconnected with the stage, is not un- 
pleasing to the ear. 



TO CHINA. 173 

man professes, provided he does not inter- 
fere in state affairs. Some one, calling 
himself a Catholic bishop, was, a short 
time before our arrival, strangled in one of 
the provinces, being suspected of intermed- 
dling with temporal matters, and pro- 
moting the late rebellions. Another was 
said to be under sentence of death on the 
same accusation. 

They not only worship their own tutelary 
deities, but they are represented as making 
offerings to evil spirits, or, as it is vulgarly 
termed in this country, they " hold a 
" candle to the devil/' in order to avert 
mischief. They have not the advantage of 
any particular day set aside for public 
worship, nor do they attend their temples 
congregationally. Their priests or bonzes 
are not treated with that reverence and re- 
spect which is justly and reasonably due to 
the respectable ministers of religion in all 
countries. They are otherwise free, however, 
from indecorum and irregularity, having no 
wild fanatics, such as exist in India; they 
are not troubled with domineering spiritual 
inquisitors, as in some of our neighbouring 



174 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

countries; nor have they any impious 
quacks and mountebank preachers, abusing 
toleration and dishonouring religion, as in 
England. 

The Chinese are strangers to love : from the 
spirit of their institutions, which unnaturally 
prohibit all intercourse between the sexes, 
that passion can never be felt ; and marriage 
is a mere cold-hearted bargain, conducted 
through the medium of some female agent, 
whenever a man finds it convenient to have 
a wife. As he never sees the lady until he 
unlocks the door of the sedan chair in which 
she is brought home, the key of which is 
previously sent to him, he is, of course, very 
liable to have tricks played upon him. — 
For example, more especially as polygamy 
is allowed, a man may have a wife suffi- 
ciently young to be considered his daugh- 
ter ; should he want money, and the lady 
another husband, (both very likely cases,) 
or from any other reason should they wish 
to part, and think proper to act in collu- 
sion, she is sold as his daughter to another 
man, who is thus imposed upon by having 
a second-hand wife palmed off upon him, 



TO CHINA. 175 

instead of a new one. The rigour of the 
law against offenders of this kind, which 
awards a very severe bambooing to all 
principals, aiders, and abettors, affords a 
proof that frauds of this description are not 
un frequent. The gentleman has the pri- 
vilege, on the first sight, of locking the door 
of the chair, and of sending his bride home 
again to her parents, (provided he can 
afford to lose the money he paid for her) 
but for the poor woman there is no choice 
left. On her side it is a " better or worse" 
case ; and what seems still more unfair, a 
Chinese husband is empowered, (in addition 
to the other causes of divorce existing in 
most countries,) to put away his wife, should 
she turn out either sickly or too talkative. 

With a people who still imagine the earth 
to be a plain, and China in the middle, 
with all her tributary kingdoms around 
her; who are equally uninformed with 
regard to astronomy ; who, in the pro- 
hibition of the study of the human frame, 
preclude the attainment of the very basis 
of all medical knowledge ; and who, in fact, 



176 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

in every branch of natural philosophy, are 
equally ignorant, and resolved to continue 
so; it is evidently impossible to connect the 
term science in any shape or manner. 

The natural productions of the country, 
and their acquaintance with agriculture 
and the arts, (as far as they had advanced 
previous to that glorious edict which stamped 
them perfect, and commanded they should 
not proceed beyond the bounds of excel- 
lence,) have already been described, by those 
whose peculiar opportunities, as well as 
talent forobservation, enabled them to speak 
fully, and with precision, on those subjects. 
The government of China, however plau- 
sible it may sound in theory, is, by all that 
can be observed in a transient view, and 
by every concurrent testimony of residents 
in the country, most iniquitous and tyran- 
nical in practice. The mandarins, and 
even the Emperor, it is true, cannot boldly 
and openly chop off heads like a Turkish 
bashaw or the dey of Algiers, but they 
have the knack of rendering life very 
miserable, and assume the power of bam- 



TO CHINA. 177 

booing, torturing, fining (or squeezing), and 
every species of oppression short of death. 
The human kind can scarcely be more de- 
graded than in China, for no where is 
power more diabolically perverted. Their 
laws, with the exception of some absur- 
dities (such, for example, of visiting mere 
accidental homicide with the same punish- 
ment as the most deliberate murder), read 
very well ; and, were they duly and impar- 
tially administered, might be found suffi- 
ciently adapted (as all laws ought to be) to 
the genius and character of the people they 
are formed for ; but this is by no means 
the case; bribery and corruption being so 
common, as scarcely to be the objects of 
indignation or remark. 

A few years since an affray took place 
(as usual) between some of the seamen of 
the Indiamen who were at Canton on leave, 
and the Chinese mob, in which one of the 
latter by an unlucky blow was killed. The 
Chinese authorities demanded blood for 
blood, one of the seamen having been 
seized and detained in the factory : this, 
however, was not tamely yielded to (as in 

N 



178 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

the case of the innocent gunner, who was 
sacrificed in so cowardly a manner many 
years ago), but was resisted on the ground 
either of the aggression of the Chinese, or 
of a mutual inclination to fight, in which a 
man happened to be killed, without the 
least previous intention of murder. For- 
tunately the Lion, of 64 guns, Captain 
Rolles, happened to be there, which pro- 
bably gave some weight to these argu- 
ments ; and the mandarins, having no ob- 
jection to compromise the matter for 
money, proposed that a certain sum should 
be paid to them for the benefit of the de- 
ceased's relations, and a slave could then be 
purchased of the Portuguese at Macao, 
who might be strangled in lieu of one of 
the sailors, and thus the law would be per- 
fectly satisfied ! 

It may easily be imagined this proposal 
was not acceded to ; and at last, after much 
discussion, the matter was arranged in some 
way or other without resorting to this hor- 
rible mode of expiation *. 

* Related by J. Cotton, Esq., of the English factory at 
Canton. 



TO CHINA. 179 

It is lamentable to observe that the in- 
stitutions of any nation should have the 
effect of deadening every feeling of sym- 
pathy, and of exciting, instead of discou- 
raging, " man's inhumanity to man ;" but 
such is the case in this country ; and when 
any one is severely wounded by accident, 
or falls into a river, or other situation of 
danger, he is certain of receiving no assist- 
ance from the by-standers, who will most 
probably take to their heels, in order to 
save themselves from being the last person 
seen near him. 

About midnight, some time in Novem- 
ber, 1816, when the Alceste was lying at 
second bar, the shrieks of some people in 
the water were heard near the ship. The 
Hon. Mr. Stopford, who had the watch, 
and another gentleman, collecting a few 
individuals who happened to be on deck, 
jumped into a boat alongside ; pushed off 
to their assistance ; and, directed by their 
cries, picked up, one after the other, three 
Chinese, who were plunging about in the 
river, which is here several miles wide. 

It was a fine night, and a number of 
N 2 



180 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

small junks were moving up under easy 
sail, several of whom passed within a few 
fathoms of these people who were bawling 
for help ; and although they could, with- 
out the slightest difficulty, have saved the 
whole, they continued their course, the 
crews standing upon deck, and viewing 
their struggles with the most callous indif- 
ference. 

On carrying the three men on board the 
frigate, it appeared they had been crossing 
the river at this place, in a little Sanpan, or 
boat ; in which were, besides themselves, 
the wife and child of one of them ; and 
that this boat had been run down by one 
of the headmost junks, which passed on 
without taking the least notice, and regard- 
less of their fate, although they had occa- 
sioned the mischief; the others coolly 
following their example ; when they were 
fortunately heard from the ship, and pre- 
served by the boat. The poor woman and 
child being unable to swim, sunk and were 
drowned. 

Before day-light these people got a pas- 
sage on shore by a boat which happened to 



TO CHINA. 181 

be passing near the ship, and in the course 
of the forenoon one of them returned on 
board with a cumshaw, or present, of three 
wild ducks, which he presented on his 
knees to the gentleman who had saved him, 
stating that, by the junk running over their 
sanpan, he had lost his wife and a bull 
child, (his only mode of expressing a boy,) 
and must himself with the other men have 
perished also, but for the assistance we af- 
forded them. Pleased with this appearance 
of heart and gratitude, where so little was 
expected, some money and provisions were 
given him for his ducks, and he was allowed 
to bring on board fish and other articles for 
sale, which, from becoming rather a fa- 
vourite, soon enabled him to repair the loss 
of his boat. 

The Chinese, viewing them in every point, 
are assuredly a very singular race, and afford 
a melancholy example of the perverseness of 
human nature — they exhibit the extraordi- 
nary instance of a people who have had for 
some thousand years a dawn of civilization, 
which, from the operation of the most nar- 
row-minded principles, has never brightened 



182 VOYAGE OF H. ft. S. ALCESTE 

into day. But for the presumptuous folly of 
supposing themselves at the summit of per- 
fection, and the absurd tyranny of fettering 
the human understanding, by forbidding all 
innovation and improvement, China might 
and ought to have been at the present hour 
the greatest nation of the world. Instead of 
impotent and gasconading pretensions to 
universal supremacy, she might have en- 
joyed, from her early and local advantages, 
the real glory of being the seat of arts, 
literature, wealth, and power. 

What have the governors or the governed 
gained by this pretended non-intercourse, 
and stupid contempt of the rest of man- 
kind ? The frequent change of dynasty 
and constant rebellions tend to shew that 
the former have been by no means secure ; 
whilst the debased and humiliated state of 
the people sufficiently evinces that their 
sordid and illiberal plan confers no benefit 
on the general mass. 

The Chinese, however, are not without 
their admirers. Some attribute their sus- 
picious meanness, knavery, silly pride, and 
other ill qualities to their depraved mode 



TO CHINA. 183 

of government, which narrows their ideas 
by compelling their attention, and attaching 
importance entirely to the observance of 
useless forms and ceremonies ; and by ad- 
mitting of no deviation from one contracted 
path, even in the simplest transactions 
of life ; and that, were it not for these 
shackles of the mind, they would be a gay, 
civil, industrious, and honest people. Per- 
haps there may be a good deal of truth in 
this argument, and it is, therefore, extremely 
unfortunate that some change does not 
take place in a system which produces 
effects so injurious to the reputation of 
mankind. Another, and very distinct class 
of encomiasts, (of the true antediluvian 
school,) affect to hold them in high es- 
teem, solely on account of their unvarying 
habits, and tenacious adherence to their 
ancient customs ; and as they are now, in 
all respects, precisely what they were two or 
three thousand years ago, they venerate 
them as living monuments of former times, 
and as valuable specimens of the antique ! In 
their present state, however, from whatever 
cause it is produced, few moderns will take 



184 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

their leave of them with sentiments of regard 
or estimation ; and even the most invete- 
rate antiquarian, had he more concerns 
with them than those merely speculative, 
might be divested, perhaps, of some of his 
prejudices. 

Of the embassy, we had heard nothing 
distinctly for nearly five months, except 
that it had not been received ; and it was 
not clearly understood, until its arrival at 
Canton, that the refusal to submit to a 
humiliating ceremonial,consideredas stamp- 
ing it with a character purely tributary, was 
the cause of this failure ; and that a recep- 
tion on the unconditional terms of the 
Chinese would have been deemed more 
prejudicial to the objects of the mission 
than even a rejection by a firm resistance. 
But these weighty matters are foreign to the 
subject of a mere simple sea-voyager, and 
are so well described by those officially 
connected with them, as to render any far- 
ther observation unnecessary. Although 
the viceroy of Canton was in daily com- 
munication with the legate, or commis- 
sioner, appointed to accompany the em- 



TO CHINA. 185 

bassy through the country, yet he main- 
tained a sullen silence as to the probable 
period of its arrival, making no communi- 
cation that we might prepare for that 
event; and it was not until the 31st of 
December that a letter of old date, having 
been detained for some time, was put into 
Captain Maxwell's hand, from Lord Am- 
herst, stating when the embassy was likely 
to enter Canton, which took place on the 
following day. A procession of boats, 
consisting of the barges of the two men-of- 
war, those of the factory, the American 
consul*, and all the Indiamen, which were 
very numerous, with their respective flags. 



# Mr. Wilcox on this occasion very handsomely vo- 
lunteered to attend the entry of the Embasador into Can- 
ton, stating, that he considered it right for nations in 
amity with each other to shew a mutual respect in all 
countries, but more especially in one like this, request- 
ing only a suitable position for his barge and flag in the 
procession; and a place perfectly satisfactory to him was 
immediately assigned by Captain Maxwell. He was 
the only public functionary of any foreign power, then 
present, who, in this respect, seemed uninfluenced by the 
Chinese, and fearless of their opinion. 



186 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

the captains and officers in full dress, and 
the boats' crews in uniform clothing, pro- 
ceeded some miles up the river, where they 
fell in with the Chinese barges, having the 
embassy on board. This meeting was 
highly gratifying to both parties, after a 
separation of nearly five months, during 
which each had, in .its respective route, 
observed many novel scenes, and encoun- 
tered extraordinary occurrences. 

Lord Amherst removing into his own 
(or the Alceste's) barge, a double line of 
boats were formed on each side, and in 
this order proceeded down the river, and 
was landed at the entrance of the great 
temple, on the Honan side, from whence 
he was conducted to his residence by a 
very numerous assemblage, who had col- 
lected to receive him. The apartments in 
this place had been fitted up with much 
taste and great appearance of comfort, 
under the inspection of Mr. Urmston, of 
the factory, and was by far the most com- 
modious and respectable quarters they had 
met with in China. A temporary build- 
ing, or wooden frame covered with yellow 



TO CHINA. 187 

screens, and containing a chair of state, 
having also yellow ornaments and the 
usual insignia of the Emperor, was erected 
in the principal square, for the occasion of 
the viceroy's interview with the Embassa- 
dor, in order to deliver the Emperor's 
letter to the Prince Regent. This cere- 
mony took place some days after the 
arrival of his lordship. The viceroy had 
been ordered by his court to make a 
speech to the Embassador, on presenting 
this letter (which speech had been in 
rehearsal for some months, and the sub- 
stance of it publicly known through the 
medium of Portuguese translations) ; and 
it appeared that the tenour of this embryo 
harangue was rather of an insulting na- 
ture, containing such expressions as " Your 
" good fortune has been small ;" " You 
" sighed after happiness, and were unable 
" to lift your eyes up to heaven," i. e. to 
view the celestial Emperor, and others of 
a similar kind. The preamble of this edict 
also stated, that there appearing to be no 
want of respect in the King or Prince, who 
had sent over so many seas to pay him 



188 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

homage, but that the fault lay in the Em- 
bassadors not understanding the rules of 
true politeness ; he therefore " wishing to 
" shew lenity to inferiors/' had accepted 
some trifling articles of the presents of the 
said King, and in return had bestowed pre- 
cious gifts, agreeably to the maxim of 
Confucius, "Take little, and give much;"* 
and that, " on the receipt of these gifts, 
the Embassadors became exceeding glad, 
and expressed great contrition -f- for their 

* The precious gifts (bestowed agreeably to the maxim 
of Confucius) would not probably bring five pounds, if 
put up to public auction. 

*f" A tolerably strong example of this sort of jctce- 
making occurred during the discussion about the per- 
formance of the ceremony, in which they had recourse to 
an imperial lie ; the Emperor declaring, through his mi- 
nisters, that he himself had seen Lord Macartney per- 
form it; and they coolly called on Sir G. Staunton, who 
had been page in that embassy, to vouch for the truth 
of the fact ; and that he did submit to the Ko-tow is the 
face they have put upon it in all the records of the em- 
pire. They also hinted to Lord Amherst, " that he might 
perform the Ko-tow here, and make any report he 
pleased when he returned to England." A proposition 
which, of course, was treated with the contempt it 
deserved. 



TO CHINA. 189 

conduct; and went on to say " that the 
viceroy, on their arrival, was to give them 
an entertainment in compliance with good 
manners, after which he was to rid himself 
of them as soon as possible ; and should 
they again supplicate him to accept their 
presents, he was enjoined to say to them, 
6 The edict has passed, and cannot be 
revoked ! the Emperor can be troubled no 
more Y and so forth." As it appeared this 
intended address had been made by them 
matter of public notoriety, it was under- 
stood, that, in order to prevent any palaver 
of this sort, a hint was given to the viceroy 
the day previous to the interview, cau- 
tioning him against the use of any im- 
proper language, as it might call forth 
replies which would be unpleasant. At the 
time appointed this meeting of ceremony 
took place, and was accompanied by the 
appearance of guards, music, and other 
attendants, there being much state ob- 
served on each side. 

The Emperor's letter, contained in a 
bamboo case, covered with yellow silk, was 
now taken from this throne, and presented 



190 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

to the Embassador, who transferred it to 
his secretary ; and the persons on either 
side, who were (by previous regulation) 
allowed chairs, having taken their seats, 
and the usual unvarying number of com- 
plimentary questions having been gone 
through, such as " What age are ye ?" and 
some others of the same high importance, 
the viceroy began to state, through the 
medium of Mr. Morrison, who interpreted, 
" By the favour of the Emperor you have 
traded to this country for more than a 
hundred years, very much to your ad- 
vantage/' — " Tell him/' said Lord Am- 
herst, " the advantage is mutual/' This 
being done, the viceroy replied, " No, the 
advantage is very much on your side." 
" Repeat to him/' said his lordship, " that 
the advantage is strictly mutual/' From 
the dignified and independent manner in 
which this was spoken, (a manner which, 
of course, from his peculiar situation, and 
the different style of those he had to deal 
with, he could have no conception of), 
and perceiving, also, a determination to 
repulse every thing bordering on imperti- 



TO CHINA. 191 

nence, he seemed to be quite awed and 
disconcerted ; the thread of his discourse 
was broken, and he got no farther on 
with this mighty specimen of altiloquence, 
than to say something about " the sub- 
ject being a disagreeable one ;" when the 
Embassador, considering the public busi- 
ness ended by the presentation of the 
Emperor's letter, rose up, and wishing 
him a very good morning, retired in the 
same state as on coming to this hall of 
audience. 

A public breakfast was, a few days 
after this, given in the hall of the factory, 
to Lord Amherst and Kwang, the impe- 
rial commissioner, who had accompanied 
the embassy on its route, when the man- 
ner in which Chinese mandarins exact 
respect from their inferiors was displayed 
by the personal attendants of the said 
Kwang, who were, as usual, supplied with 
ropes, bamboos, and other instruments of 
punishment. A Chinese, who had been 
thrust, by those behind him, too near the 
mandarin's chair (on his leaving the fac- 
tory), was seized by two of these people, 



192 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

who threw the noose of their rope around 
his neck, and pulled with all their force in 
opposite directions, until the poor wretch 
fell down senseless, and black in the face. 
He was then thrown out into the yard 
opposite the factory ; but as their intention 
had not been to strangle him completely, 
he in a short time revived. The whip is 
not only in constant use, to keep in order 
the humbler mob, but even within the 
precincts of the imperial palace it was 
observed, on the morning on which the 
embassy was there, to be exercised most 
unmercifully upon some of the court man- 
darins, by those of still higher rank, who 
literally flogged them like a pack of 
hounds. This sort of discipline may, per- 
haps, be quite necessary, and very pro- 
perly applied ; but surely that society 
which either requires, or is willing to sub- 
mit to such treatment, cannot be con- 
sidered by any rational mind, of that 
polished, civilized, and refined character, 
which has been so long (but so falsely) 
attributed to the Chinese. 

On the 20th, every thing being ready, 



TO CHINA. 193 

his Excellency left Canton on the forenoon 
of the 20th January, 1817, and was 
attended in the same style as on entering 
it, except that, in passing the various 
ships in that branch of the river, leading 
to Wampoa*, each saluted with nineteen 
guns, the Chinese war-junks also saluting. 
The viceroy, just as the Embassador had 
embarked in his barge to proceed down 
the river, approached near in his boat, and 
made a tender of a complimentary card, 
which was not accepted, it being deemed 
an improper time and mode of presenting 
it. On the 21st the Alceste weighed and 
stood down the river ; and on the morning 
of the 22d, as we passed our friends at the 
forts, each battery fired a distinct salute, 
in honour of the Embassador, as did the 
different war-junks ; and their whole mili- 
tary force, exclusive of that in the bat- 



* The Alceste had at first only advanced to the 
second bar, but some whispering among the Chinese, 
that she was not to be permitted to come up as far as the 
Lion, occasioned her sudden appearance one day (with- 
out any leave), at Wampoa, the Lyra in company. 

O 



194 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

teries, was drawn out in line in Anson's 
Bay, and fired a feu-de-joie with their 
match-locks. 

The ship answered all these in rotation, 
with three guns to each. On the same 
evening we anchored off the city of Macao, 
and the next morning his Excellency 
landed ; but here the ghost of the late 
queen made its way through the centre of 
the earth, (for we were now antipodes to 
the Brazils), and prevented any public 
attentions being paid to the Embassador, 
because the accounts of her death had just 
arrived. The fact is, these poor people 
dare not, were they ever so willing, do any 
thing which they think may be displeasing 
to the Chinese, under whom they live in a 
state of miserable thraldom ; the latter 
having it in their power, and frequently 
resorting to the measure, of stopping their 
allowance of provisions whenever they dis- 
play the least symptom of being unruly ; and 
in the present case it seemed to be the wish 
of the Chinese to have the whole manage- 
ment of the honours to the Embassador ; a 
mandarin receiving him on going on shore, 



TO CHTNA. 196 

although within their walls, precisely as he 
would have done, had the Chinese flag, 
instead of that of the Portuguese, been 
flying there. 

In China there seems to exist a super- 
stitious dread of all foreign women, and 
their importation is strictly prohibited. 
They imagine that the most calamitous 
effect would be produced by their setting 
foot on the celestial soil ; or, perhaps, that 
their unrestrained liberty would be a bad 
example for their own secluded females. 
English ladies, therefore, w r ho frequently 
arrive here in ships that have touched at 
India, are, in order to prevent them from 
doing any mischief, obliged to land at this 
settlement before the ships are permitted to 
pass up the river ; and a heavy duty must 
also be paid upon each, which the Man- 
darins pocket, notwithstanding the women 
are strictly confined within the narrow 
limits of the Portuguese territory. 

Macao is stated to be a possession of 
little or no value to the crown of Portugal ; 
and, under the circumstances of its present 
tenure, certainly not one that is either 

o 2 



196 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

honourable or independent. The cave of 
Camoens is the only object here which 
attracts the notice of a traveller, from its 
being the spot in which he composed his 
celebrated poem of the Lusiad. Camoens, 
certainly the greatest, and, perhaps, the 
only, Portuguese poet whose fame ever 
extended beyond the boundaries of his own 
country, deserved a better fate ; and it is 
painful to think that he died a beggar in the 
streets of Lisbon. 



TO CHINA. 197 



CHAP. V. 



The Ships visit Manilla. 

ON the 9th of January, the Embassador 
having re-embarked, we took our leave of 
China, steering for Manilla, the capital of 
the Philippines, or Spanish India, where 
we arrived on Monday the 3d of February, 
but found it was only Sunday at this 
place, owing to the different routes by 
which the Spaniards and the Portuguese 
advanced to the Asiatic seas ; the one by 
Cape Horn, the other by the Cape of 
Good Hope; a circumstance which may 
produce an awkward effect on people 
newly arrived at Manilla ; — for instance, a 
stranger invited to a party on Wednesday, 
without at all reflecting on the way he 
came thither, might dress himself for the 



L#8 VOTAGE OF H. M. 3. ALCESTE 

occasion, and make his appearance on 
Tuesday. The town of Manilla, from its 
peninsular situation, having on one side 
the sea, and on the other a deep and rapid 
river, with strongly-fortified ditches across 
the isthmus, ought to be, with a proper 
garrison, very defensible, for there are no 
commanding heights in its immediate 
vicinity ; but their soldiers consist almost 
entirely of mulattoes and blacks, and 
seem to be in a very lethargic state of dis- 
cipline. 

The Metees, or Mulatto women, who 
are a mixture between the Spaniards and 
the natives, are remarkable for their sym- 
metry of form and stately mien, and this 
sort of beauty is so universal as hardly to 
admit of an exception. The religion of 
the Indians, under the immediate control 
of the Spaniards, is Christianity ; and they 
have even native priests, but their minis- 
terial powers are very limited, and they 
are not admitted to the same privileges as 
the regular Spanish clergy. At Mindanao 
and the other islands (of which there are 
more than a thousand), where they are 



TO CHTNA. 199 

governed by their own sultans, it is said to 
be a mixture of Mahomedanism with their 
original Pagan rites. The banks of the 
river, as well as the lake from which it 
issues, called the Laguna de Bayo, (its 
nearest part about eighteen miles from the 
city), are represented as extremely beau- 
tiful, and abounding in tropical scenery. 

This lake extends more than thirty miles 
into the interior. Near its head are some 
remarkable hot springs, called " Los 
Banos," or baths ; but they seemed rather 
too hot for that purpose. Luconia * is 



# Canada is said to have derived its name from the 
Spaniards, when they landed in that quarter, repeating 
the words " aca nada," or " nothing here," (meaning 
there was no gold to be found,) which the Indians caught 
the sound of. Some similar occurrence appears to 
have occasioned the name of Lu§on. When Magellan's 
party first went on shore they found one of the native 
women beating rice, as is usual at the present time, in a 
mortar hollowed frcm the trunk of a tree; and, finding her- 
self surrounded by strange men, she held up to them the 
large wooden pestle, calling out Looson, which is the 
native term for it; and this becoming a by-word among 
the Spaniards, they named the island Lucon, which has 
been modernized into Luconia. 



200 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

about four hundred miles in length, and 
two hundred in breadth ; and, were it 
made the most of, is fully capable of 
affording all the. productions of either 
Western India or of the neighbouring 
Archipelago. 

It is so healthy, that the medical people 
have scarcely any practice, and complain 
that there are no " enfermedades rey- 
nantes," or reigning diseases, such as the 
yellow fever, as it exists at the Havannah, 
Vera Cruz, Carthagena, and other settle- 
ments more (by their reckoning) to the 
eastward. This misfortune most probably 
proceeds from the very limited intercourse 
which Manilla has, compared to any of the 
others, with Europeans, or new-comers, the 
Spaniards w T ho inhabit it being almost 
without exception Creoles *, and therefore 
assimilated from their birth, to the climate. 
This restricted intercourse may be observed 
in there not being a single inn for the 



: This term does not mean a person having the least 
mixture of black blood, but merely a white born in the 
country. 



TO CHINA. 201 

accommodation of strangers in the whole 
city of Manilla or its suburbs. Chinese 
emigrants are here in thousands, and are 
very industrious and money-making, being 
the chief artificers and traffickers in small 
matters, resembling the lower class of 
Jews. From their being found scattered 
about in all the Indian islands, they might 
indeed be considered as the Jews of the 
east, were they only half as honest. Not- 
withstanding their contempt of foreigners, 
Chinese emigrants are found living under 
foreign governments in greater numbers 
than those of any three European nations 
put together. 

The Spaniards appear not to be fully in 
possession of Luconia at the present day. 
They may be said, indeed, only to be 
masters of the ground they occupy in a 
military point of view ; for, by their own 
accounts, it is not only dangerous to travel 
without an escort in the country, but it is 
not safe for a Spaniard to walk out singly 
after dark about the suburbs of Manilla. 
A day or two after our arrival, three of the 
natives, who had been concerned in the 



202 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

murder of a marchioness, were strangled 
before the porch of one of their churches. 
These people seemed to have been actuated 
not by a spirit of plunder, but of revenge, 
for some real or supposed injuries, as the 
deed was committed in the public square, 
by dragging her from the carriage on her 
return home in the evening ; and in this 
way frequent assassinations occur. A gen- 
tleman of the Alceste being in a party one 
evening, where observations on the murder- 
ous character of the natives were the subject 
of conversation, took occasion to observe 
that if such was the case it would be neces- 
sary to keep a look-out in going homewards ; 
but he was assured that, as an English 
officer, he had nothing to fear. " No, Senor, 
" temen ustedes, pero matan a nosotros," 
" They are afraid of you, but they kill us/' 
It cannot be fear alone that induces the na- 
tives to spare the English officers, who 
certainly freely exposed themselves at times 
and in situations the most favourable for 
assassination, without suffering the slightest 
injury ; and it is probable that a French, 
German, or any other transitory stranger 



TO CHINA. 203 

might do the same ; for it evidently is to 
their own immediate rulers that this feeling 
of hostility exists ; and it is, no doubt, the 
result of their impolitic mode of governing. 
Such a state of things would render the 
Philippines a very easy conquest to amy in- 
vading force in time of war ; but the court 
of Spain, at present, seems to have most to 
fear from those sentiments of independence 
which have extended from Buenos Ay res to 
Manilla, and appear to be a point of union 
in which almost all classes are agreed, not 
excepting even the hierarchy. 

The celebrated and unfortunate Perouse, 
when at this place in his voyage of disco- 
very, made the following remarks : — " Ma- 
" nilla is built on the shore of a bay of the 
" same name, which is more than twenty- 
" five leagues in circumference. It lies at 
" the mouth of a river, navigable as far 
" as the lake from which it rises, and is, per- 
" haps, the most delightfully situated city 
" in the world. Provisions of all kinds are 
" in the greatest abundance there, and ex- 
" tremely cheap ; but clothing, European 
" hardware, and furniture, bear an exces- 



204 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

" sively high price. The want of compe- 
" tition, together with the prohibitions and 
" restraints of every kind laid on commerce, 
" render all the productions of India and of 
" China at least as dear there as in Europe ; 
" and this colony, although the various 
" imports bring near 800,000 piastres an- 
" nually into the treasury, costs Spain 
" 1,500,000 besides, which are sent there 
" every year from Mexico. 

" The immense possessions of the Spa- 
" niards in America have not admitted of 
" the government essentially directing its 
" attention to the Philippines, which resem- 
" ble the estates of those great lords whose 
" lands lie uncultivated, though capable of 
" making the fortunes of many families. 
" I should not hesitate to assert, that a very 
" great nation, possessed of no other colony 
" than the Philippine Islands, and who 
" should establish the best Government of 
" which they are capable, might behold all 
" the European settlements in Africa and 
" America without envy. 

" Three millions of inhabitants people 
«* these various islands, of whom that of 



TO CHINA. 205 

'* Luconia contains nearly one-third. These 
" people appear in no respect inferior to 
u those of Europe. They cultivate the 
" earth like men of understanding; are 
" carpenters, joiners, smiths, goldsmiths, 
" weavers, masons, &c. I have walked 
" through their villages, and found them 
" kind, hospitable, and communicative; 
" and, though the Spaniards speak of and 
" treat them with contempt, I perceived 
" that the vices they attributed to the 
" Indians* ought rather to be imputed 
" to the government they have themselves 
" established/' Speaking of no encou- 
ragement being given to labour, he states, 
that " as soon as the inhabitants have the 
" quantity of rice, of sugar, and of vege- 
" tables, necessary for their subsistence, 
" the superflux is of no value whatever. 
" In such circumstances, sugar has been 
" sold for less than a halfpenny the pound, 



# It is remarked that an island, not far from Luconia, is 
inhabited by woolly-haired negroes, the descendants of 
some Africans, who (in a slave-ship from that coast) were 
at one time wrecked on it. 



206 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

" and the rice remained upon the ground 
" without being reaped. 

" It would be difficult for the most un- 
" enlightened society to form a system 
" of government more absurd than that 
" which has regulated these colonies for 
" the last two centuries. 

" The port of Manilla, which ought to 
" be free and open to all nations, has been 
" till very lately shut against Europeans, 
" and open only to a few Moors, Ameri- 
" cans, and the Portuguese of Goa. The 
" governor is invested with the most de- 
" spotic authority; and the xludiencia, which 
" ought to moderate his power, is totally 
" impotent before the representative of the 
" Spanish government. In point of fact, 
" though not by law, it lies in his breast 
" to admit or confiscate the merchandise 
" of foreigners whom the hope of advan- 
" tage may have brought to Manilla, and 
" who would not expose themselves to this 
" risk but on the probability of a very 
" great profit, ultimately ruinous to the 
" consumers/' It is undoubtedly as unac- 
countable, as it appears to be unen- 



TO CHINA. 207 

lightened, that a nation should take deli- 
berate measures to make a colony a burden 
to it, which is not only fully able to 
maintain itself, if permitted, but to enrich 
the mother country. It seems almost 
equal to the sublime policy of restoring the 
Inquisition. 

The Spanish authorities here were 
marked in their attentions to the Embassa- 
dor during his stay ; and, on the 9th of Feb- 
ruary, having re-embarked, we got under 
weigh, bound homeward, and parted com- 
pany with our consort, the Lyra, which 
soon afterwards proceeded from hence with 
despatches for India. 



208 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 



CHAP. VI. 



Depart from Manilla — Shipwrecked on Pulo 
Leat — Attacked by the Malays — Occurrences 
on the Island — Passage of Lord Amherst and 
the Embassy to Batavia. 

A COURSE was now shaped to avoid 
the numerous rocks and shoals, not well 
defined, which lie in that part of the Chi- 
nese Sea more immediately to the west- 
ward of the Philippines, and to the north- 
westward of Borneo ; and having by the 
14th passed the whole, and got into the 
usual track for the passage of either the 
Straits of Banca or Caspar, it was resolved 
to proceed through the latter, as being 
more direct and less subject to calms than 
the former, and considering them equally 
safe, from the latest surveys and directions 



TO CHINA. 209 

being on board, some of them by those 
who had personally examined them. At 
day-light in the morning of the 18th we 
made Caspar Island, exactly at the time 
expected, and, passing it, stood on for the 
Straits. As is customary in approaching 
any coast or passage whatever, but more 
especially one that all are not familiarly 
acquainted with, the utmost precaution 
was taken by keeping the leads going in 
both chains, men looking out at the mast- 
heads, yard-arms, and bowsprit end ; the 
captain, master, and officer of the watch, 
on whom the charge of the ship at such a 
time more particularly devolves, having 
been vigilantly on deck during the whole 
of the previous night and this morning. 
Steering under all these guarded circum- 
stances, the soundings exactly correspond- 
ing with the charts, and following the ex- 
press line prescribed by all concurring 
directions to clear every danger (and the 
last danger of this sort between us and 
England), the ship about half-past seven 
in the morning struck with a horrid crash 

r 



210 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

on a reef of sunken rocks, and remained 
immovable ! 

It was very soon indeed but too evident 
that any attempt to move her would be 
attended with the most fatal consequences; 
for, on each side of the rocks on which she 
hung, the water deepened from ten to seven- 
teen fathoms immediately around her; 
and, from the injury received, she must 
have gone down in a few minutes, had she 
forced her way over this narrow reef. The 
best bower anchor was therefore let go, to 
keep her fast ; and the pumps were soon 
abandoned, being clearly of no avail. 

The boats were now hoisted out, and 
Lieutenant Hoppner, with the barge and 
cutter, ordered to proceed with the Em- 
bassador and suite, and all those not essen- 
tially required, to the nearest part of the 
island, which seemed about three miles and 
a half distant. Meanwhile every exertion 
was used by the captain and officers, who 
remained by the ship, to secure what pro- 
visions and stores could be obtained ; a 
task of considerable labour and difficulty, 



TO CHINA. 211 

for all was under water, which now rose 
above the orlop-deck. 

When she struck the tide must have 
been rising, for towards the afternoon it 
fell outside, and consequently inside the 
ship several feet ; thereby enabling us to 
save ourselves from absolute starvation by 
laying hold of some articles of provender 
which floated up, assisted by divers, and 
which the boats were employed in con- 
veying to the shore. A raft was also con- 
structed, on which were placed the heavier 
stores, with some baggage, and towed 
towards the island. By the return of those 
boats which carried his Excellency on 
shore we learnt the very great difficulty of 
effecting a landing, the mangrove-trees 
growing out to a considerable distance in 
the water ; and it was not until after 
ranging alongshore for nearly three miles 
from the place they at first attempted that 
a small opening appeared, through which, 
by scrambling from rock to rock, they at 
last obtained a footing on terra fir ma. 
Here, by cutting away a quantity of the 
smaller jungle at the foot of a hill (for the 

p 2 



212 VOYAGE OF H. M.S. ALCESTE 

island was completely overgrown with 
wood), a space was cleared away, where, 
under the shade of the loftier trees, they 
bivouacqued for that day and night. 

On board the ship the work went on 
with activity, endeavouring to save what- 
ever might be most useful on such an 
occasion ; but, as the tide rose, the swell 
of the sea lifting her from the rocks, she 
dashed on them again with such violence, 
as to render it necessary about midnight 
to cut away the topmasts. At day-light, 
on Wednesday the 19th, Mr. M'Leod 
landed with two men who had been severely 
wounded by the fall of the masts, and with 
a report from the captain to Lord Am- 
herst. The spot in which our party were 
situated was sufficiently romantic, but seemed 
at the same time the abode of ruin and of 
havoc. Few of its inhabitants (and among 
the rest the Embassador) had more than a 
shirt or pair of trowsers on. The wreck 
of books, or, as it was not unaptly termed, 
" a literary manure," was spread about in 
all directions ; whilst parliamentary robes, 
court-dresses, and mandarin habits, inter- 



TO CHINA. 213 

mixed with check shirts and tarry jackets, 
were hung around in wild confusion on 
every tree. 

On his lordship being informed that no 
fresh water had as yet been obtained from 
the ship, and that it was barely probable 
some might be got by scuttling the lower 
deck, he desired every body might be 
called around him, and ordered that a gill 
of that which had been sent on shore the 
day before (what happened to be on deck 
in the dripstones and water-jugs), with half 
that quantity of rum, should be equally 
served out to every man without distinc- 
tion, and, taking his own share with per- 
fect good humour, afforded to others an 
example of calm fortitude, and a cheerful 
readiness to share in every privation, which 
never fails on such occasions to have a 
powerful and beneficial effect, more espe- 
cially when that example is found, where 
it ought to be, in the first rank. 

Parties were now returning, who had 
been searching for water in vain, every 
attempt to dig for it having proved fruit- 
less ; or, being too near the sea, salt water 



214 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

alone had oozed into the pits. At one 
spot they found the skeleton of a man, and 
the horrid idea of his having died from 
thirst rushed on every mind. Those who 
went into the wood, on these excursions, 
were obliged to notch the trees, and leave 
marks as they advanced, in order to find 
their way back. In the forenoon Captain 
Maxwell came on shore, to confer with Lord 
Amherst on the best mode to be adopted 
in the perilous situation in which they were 
then placed. The boats were utterly 
incapable of conveying half our number 
any where ; and, as some must necessarily 
go to the nearest friendly port for assist- 
ance, Captain Maxwell judged it best that 
his Excellency and suite should proceed 
with a proper guard for Batavia, or what- 
ever part of Java they could fetch, from 
whence vessels could be despatched to 
bring off those who remained behind. 

This being what is termed the north- 
west monsoon, there was every likelihood 
of the boats reaching Java (the current 
being also in their favour) in three days ; 
and by this arrangement, which very 



TO CHINA. 215 

happily was settled without loss of time, 
two grand purposes were answered, the 
nearest to the captain's heart and his first 
duty ; viz. the immediate conveyance of 
the Embassador and suite to a place of 
safety; and, by their safety 4 ensuring more 
effectually than by any other means that 
of the officers and men who remained with 
himself upon this desert isle. It was 
thought probable that row-boats might be 
despatched from Batavia after the arrival 
of his Excellency, so as to reach the 
island (even against wind and current) in 
twelve or fifteen days ; and, as Mr. Ellis 
volunteered to return with the first boat 
or vessel that shoved off to our assistance, 
an additional assurance was thus given, 
that, combined with the influence of 
the Embassador with the Dutch govern- 
ment, no delay would occur in forwarding 
relief. After a short, and very slender f&te 
champetre in this wilderness (in which salt 
was viewed with the same horror as ar- 
senic), his lordship, about five in theevening, 
accompanied by the gentlemen of his suite, 
by Lieutenant Hoppner, in command of 



216 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

the boats, Mr. Mayne to navigate, Lieu- 
tenant Cooke, R. M. (with a party, as 
officer of the guard, in the event of falling 
in with any of the Malay pirates who infest 
these seas), Mr. Blair, midshipman, and 
Mr. Somerset (who had come to see the 
world a little), waded out to the edge of the 
reef, and embarked in the barge and cutter. 
They were in all forty- seven persons, and had 
with them a small stock of provisions, con- 
sisting of a side of mutton, a ham, a tongue, 
about twenty pounds of coarse biscuit, and 
some few more of fine ; seven gallons of water, 
the same of beer, as many of spruce, and 
about thirty bottles of wine. This was 
all that could be spared ; and, being deemed 
equal to sustain nature for four or five days, 
in which period they must either make the 
land, or be so disposed of as to require no 
provisions, it was considered sufficient by 
the party themselves, and they looked for no 
more. After pulling outwards a little way to 
clear all the rocks, they made sail to the 
southward, attended by the best wishes of 
every man on the island, and were soon out 
of sight. The number left behind was 



TO CHINA. 217 

two hundred men and boys, and one 
woman. 

The first measure of Captain Maxwell, 
after fixing a party to dig a well in a spot 
which was judged, from a combination of 
circumstances, the most likely to find water, 
was to remove our bivouac to the top of the 
hill, where we could breathe a cooler and 
purer air ; a place in all respects not only 
better adapted to the preservation of our 
health, but to our defence in case of attack. 
A path was cut upwards, and a party em- 
ployed in clearing away and setting fire to 
the underwood on the summit. This last 
operation tended much to free us from 
myriads of ants, and of snakes, scorpions, 
centipedes, and other reptiles, which in 
such a place and climate generally abound. 
Others were employed in removing up- 
wards our small stock of provisions, which 
were deposited (under a strict guard), in a 
sort of natural magazine, formed by the 
tumbling together of some huge masses of 
rock on the highest part of this eminence. 
On board the wreck a party was stationed, 
endeavouring to gain any accession they 



218 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALC'ESTE 

could to our stock of provisions and arms, 
and to save any public stores that could 
be found. There was a communication 
for this purpose between the shore and the 
ship whenever the tide permitted. For the 
last two days every one had experienced 
much misery from thirst : a small cask of 
water (the only one which could be ob- 
tained from the ship) was scarcely equal 
to a pint each in the course of that period ; 
and perhaps no question was ever so 
anxiously repeated, as " What hope from 
the well V About eleven at night the dig- 
gers had got, by rather a tortuous direction 
(on account of large stones), as far down as 
twenty feet, when they came to a clayey or 
marly soil, that above it being a red earth, 
which seemed rather moist, and had no- 
thing saline in the taste. At a little past 
midnight a bottle of muddy water was 
brought the captain as a specimen, and, 
the moment it was understood to be fresh, 
the rush to the well was such as to impede 
the workmen ; therefore it became necessary 
to plant sentries to enable them to complete 
their task, and permit the water to settle a 



TO CHINA. 219 

little. Fortunately alxn.it this time a heavy 
shower of rain fell, and, by spreading sheets, 
table-cloths, $c. and wringing them, some 
relief was afforded. There are few situa- 
tions in which men exposed without shelter 
to a torrent of rain would, as in the pre- 
sent instance, hail that circumstance as a 
blessing : bathing in the sea was also re- 
sorted to by many in order to drink by 
absorption, and they fancied it afforded 
relief. 

Thursday, 20th. This morning the 
captain, ordering all hands together, stated 
to them in few words, that every man, by 
the regulations of the nav3 r , was as liable to 
answer for his conduct on the present as 
on any other occasion ; that, as long as he 
lived, the same discipline should be exerted, 
and, if necessary, with greater rigour than 
aboard; a discipline for the general welfare, 
which he trusted every sensible man of 
the party must see the necess^r of main- 
taining ; — assuring them, at the same time, 
he would have much pleasure in recom- 
mending those who distinguished them- 
selves by the regularity and propriety of 



220 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

their conduct ; — that the provisions we had 
been able to save should be served out, 
although necessarily with a very sparing 
hand, yet with the most rigid equality to all 
ranks, until we obtained that relief which 
he trusted would soon follow the arrival of 
Lord Amherst at Java. 

During this day the well afforded a pint 
of water for each man ; it had a sweetish 
milk-and-water taste, something like the 
juice of the cocoa-nut, but nobody found 
fault with it*; on the contrary, it diffused 
that sort of happiness which only they can 
feel who have felt the horrible sensation of 
thirst under a vertical sun, subject at the 
same time to a harassing and fatiguing 
duty. This day was employed in getting 
up every thing from the foot of the hill ; 
boats passing to the ship, but unfortunately 
almost every thing of real value to us in 
our present case was under water. We 
were in hopes, however, that, as no bad 



* It was happily said, when mixed with a little rum, to 
resemble milk-punch ; and we endeavoured to persuade 
ourselves that it was so. 



TO CHINA. 221 

weather was likely to happen, we might be 
enabled by scuttling at low water, or by 
burning her upper-works, to acquire many 
useful articles. 

On Friday (21st) the party stationed 
at the ship found themselves, soon after 
day-light, surrounded by a number of 
Malay proas, apparently well armed, and 
full of men. Without a single sword or 
musquetfor defence, they had just time to 
throw themselves into the boat alongside, 
and push for the shore, chased by the 
pirates, who, finding two of our other boats 
push out to their assistance, returned to the 
ship, and took possession of her. Soon 
afterwards it was reported, from the look- 
out rock, that the savages, armed with 
spears, were landing at a point about two 
miles off. Under all the depressing circum- 
stances attending shipwreck ; — of hunger, 
thirst, and fatigue ; and menaced by a 
ruthless foe; — it was glorious to see the 
British spirit staunch and unsubdued. 
The order was given for every man to arm 
himself in the best way he could, and it was 
obeyed with the utmost promptitude and 



222 VOYAGE OF II. M. S. ALCESTE 

alacrity. Rude pike-staves were formed, 
by cutting down young trees ; small swords, 
dirks, knives, chisels, and even large spike- 
nails sharpened, were firmly affixed to the 
ends of these poles ; and those who could 
find nothing better hardened the end of 
the wood in the fire, and, bringing it to a 
sharp point, formed a tolerable weapon. 
There were, perhaps, a dozen cutlasses ; 
the marines had about thirty muskets and 
bayonets, but could muster no more than 
seventy-five ball-cartridges among the whole 
party. We had fortunately preserved some 
loose powder drawn from the upper-deck 
guns after the ship had struck, (for the 
magazine was under water in five minutes,) 
and the marines, by hammering their 
buttons round, and by rolling up pieces 
of broken bottles in cartridges, did their 
best to supply themselves with a sort of 
langrage which would have some effect at 
close quarters, and strict orders were given 
not to throw away a single shot until sure 
of their aim. Mr. Cheffy, the carpenter, 
and his crew, under the direction of the 
captain, were busied in forming a sort of 



TO CHINA. 223 

abattis, by felling trees, and enclosing in a 
circular shape the ground we occupied ; 
and, by interweaving loose branches with 
the stakes driven in among these, a breast- 
work was constructed, which afforded us 
some cover, and must naturally impede the 
progress of any enemy un supplied with 
artillery. That part of the island we had 
landed on was a narrow ridge, not above 
musket-shot across, bounded on one side 
by the sea, and on the other by a creek, 
extending upwards of a mile inland, and 
nearly communicating with the sea at its 
head. Our hill was the outer point of this 
tongue, and its shape might be very well 
represented by an inverted punch-bowl : 
the circle on which the bowl stands would 
then shew the fortification ; and the space 
within it our citadel. 

It appeared by the report of scouts, a 
short time after the first account, that the 
Malays had not actually landed, but had 
taken possession of" some rocks near this 
point, on which they deposited a quantity 
of plunder brought from the ship ; and 
during the day they continued making 
these predatory trips. 



224 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

In the evening all hands were mustered 
under arms, and a motley group they pre- 
sented ; it was gratifying, however, to ob- 
serve, that, rude as were their implements 
of defence, there seemed to be no want of 
spirit to use them if occasion offered *. 
The officers and men were now marshalled 
regularly into the different divisions and 
companies, their various posts assigned, 
and other arrangements made. An officer 
and party were ordered to take charge of 
the boats for the night, and they were 
hauled closer into the landing-place. An 
alarm which occurred during the night 
shewed the benefit of these regulations, for, 
on a sentry challenging a noise among the 
bushes, every one was at his post in an 
instant, and without the least confusion. 

* Even the little boys had managed to make fast a 
table-fork, or something of that kind, on the end of a 
stick, for their defence. One of the men who had been 
so severely bruised by the falling of the masts, and was 
slung in his hammock between two trees, had been ob- 
served carefully Jishing, or fixing, with two sticks and a 
rope-yarn, the blade of an old razor. — On being asked 
what he meant to do with it, he replied, " You know I 
" cannot stand ; but, if any of these fellows come within 
u reach of my hammock, I'll mark them." 



TO CHINA. 225 

On Saturday morning (22d,) some of 
the Malay boats approached the place 
where ours were moored ; and, with the 
view of ascertaining whether they had any 
inclination to communicate on friendly 
terms, the gig, with an officer and four 
hands, pulled gently towards them, waving 
the bough of a tree, (a general symbol of 
peace every where,) shewing the usual 
demonstrations of friendship, and of a desire 
to speak to them ; but all was vain, for they 
were merely reconnoitring our position, 
and immediately pulled back to their 
rock. 

The second lieutenant (Mr. Hay) was 
now ordered with the barge, cutter, and gig, 
armed in the best way we could, to proceed 
to the ship, and regain possession of her, 
either by fair means or by force; the pirates 
not appearing, at this time, to have more 
than eighty men. Those on the rocks, seeing 
our boats approach, threw all their plunder 
into their vessels, and made off. 

Two of their largest proas were now 
at work on the ship ; but, on observing 
their comrades abandon the rock, and the 

Q 



226 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

advance of the boats, they also made sail 
away, having previously set fire to the ship, 
which they did so effectually, that in a few 
minutes the flames burst from every port, 
and she was soon enveloped in a cloud of 
smoke. The boats were unable to board 
her, and therefore returned. 

Here was a period to every hope of ac- 
commodation with these people, if, indeed, 
any reasonable hope could ever have been 
entertained on that head. The Malays, 
more especially those wandering and pira- 
tical tribes, who roam about the coasts 
of Borneo, Billiton, and the wilder parts of 
Sumatra, are a race of savages, perhaps 
the most merciless and inhuman to be 
foimd in any part of the world. The 
Battas are literally cannibals. In setting 
fire to the ship, they gave a decided proof 
of their disposition to us ; but, although 
certainly with no good intention, they did 
merely what we intended to do ; for, by 
burning her upper works and decks, every 
thing buoyant could float up from below, 
and be more easily laid hold of. 

The ship continued burning during the 



TO CHINA. 227 

whole of the night ; and the flames, which 
could be seen through the openings of the 
trees, shed a melancholy glare around, and 
excited the most mournful ideas. This 
night also all hands were suddenly under 
arms again, from a marine firing his mus- 
ket at what he very properly considered 
a suspicious character near his post, who 
appeared advancing upon him, and refused 
to answer after being repeatedly hailed. It 
turned out afterwards that the branch of a 
tree, half-cut through the day before, had 
given way, under one of a race of large 
baboons, which we found about this time 
disputed the possession of the island with 
us. At the well, where there generally was 
kept a good fire at night, on account of the 
mosquitoes, the sentries had more than 
once been alarmed by these gentlemen 
shewing their black faces from behind the 
trees. They became so extremely trouble- 
some to some ducks we had saved from the 
wreck, (seizing and carrying them up the 
trees, and letting them foil down again 
when alarmed,) that on several occasions 
they left their little yard, and came up 

q 2 



228 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

among the people, when the monkeys got 
among them, thus instinctively preferring 
the society of man for protection. 

On Sunday morning, (23d,) the boats 
were sent to the still-smoking wreck, and 
some flour, a few cases of wine, and a cask 
of beer, had floated up. This last God- 
send was announced just at the conclusion 
of divine service, which was this morning 
held in the mess-tent, and a pint was or- 
dered to be immediately served out to each 
man, which called forth three cheers *. 
This seems to be the only style in which a 
British seaman can give vent to the warmer 
feelings of his heart. It is his mode of 
thanksgiving for benefits received ; and it 
equally serves him to honour his friend, to 
defy his enemy, or to proclaim victory. 
This day we continued improving our fence, 
and clearing away a glacis immediately 

# Some decorously righteous man, observing to the 
chaplain that he had never seen such a scene in England 
as the congregation cheering at the church-door; the 
latter replied, with proper liberality, (and tolerable good 
humour,) " perhaps you never saw a thirsty English 
audience dismissed with the promise of a pint of beer 
a-piece." 



TO CHINA. 229 

around it, that we might see and have fair 
play with these barbarians, should they ap- 
proach. They had retired behind a little 
islet, (called Pulo Chalacca, or Misfortune's 
Isle J about two miles from us, and seemed 
waiting there for reinforcements ; for some 
of their party had made sail towards 
Billiton. 

Monday morning, (24th,) the boats, as 
yesterday, went to the wreck, and returned 
with some casks of flour, only partially da- 
maged ; a few cases of wine, and about forty 
boarding-pikes, with eighteen muskets, 
were also laid hold of. With the loose 
powder secured out of the great guns in the 
first instance, Mr. Holman, the gunner, had 
been actively employed, forming musket- 
cartridges ; and by melting down some 
pewter basins and jugs, with a small quan- 
tity of lead, lately obtained from the wreck, 
balls were cast in clay moulds, increasing 
not a little our confidence and security. A 
quart of water each had been our daily 
allowance from the well hitherto, and on 
this day a second was completed near the 
foot of the hill, in another direction, whicji 



230 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

not only supplied clearer water, but in 
greater plenty; and we could now, without 
restriction, indulge in the luxury of a long 
drink, not caring even to excite thirst, 
in order to enjoy that luxury in higher 
perfection. 

On Tuesday, (25th,) the boats made 
their usual trip ; some more cases of wine, 
and a few boarding-pikes were obtained, 
both excellent articles in their way, in the 
hands of men who are inclined to entertain 
either " their friends or their foes/' On 
shore we were employed completing the 
paths to the wells, and felling trees which 
intercepted our view of the sea. 

"Wednesday, (26th,) at day-light, two of 
the pirate proas, with each a canoe astern, 
were discovered close in with the cove 
where our boats were moored. Lieutenant 
Hay, (a straight-forward sort of fellow,) 
who had the guard that night at the boats, 
and of course slept in them, immediately 
dashed at them with the barge, cutter, and 
gig. On perceiving this, they cut adrift 
their canoes, and made all sail chased by 
our boats ; they rather distanced the cutter 



TO CHINA. 231 

and gig, but the barge gained upon them. 
On closing, the Malays evinced every 
sign of defiance, placing themselves in the 
most threatening attitudes, and firing their 
swivels at the barge. This was returned by 
Mr. Hay with the only musket he had in 
the boat, and, as they closed nearer, the 
Malays commenced throwing their javelins 
and darts, several falling into the barge, 
but without wounding any of the men. 
Soon after they were grappled by our 
fellows, when three of them having been 
shot, and a fourth knocked down with 
the butt end of the musket, five more 
jumped overboard and drowned themselves, 
(evidently disdaining quarter,) and two 
were taken prisoners, one of whom w r as 
severely wounded. This close style of 
fighting is termed by seamen man-handling 
an enemy. 

The Malays had taken some measure to 
sink their proa, for she went down almost 
immediately. Nothing could exceed the 
desperate ferocity of these people. One 
who had been shot through the body, but 
who was not quite dead, on being removed 



232 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

into the barge, with a view of saving him, 
(as his own vessel was sinking), furiously 
grasped a cutlass which came within his 
reach, and it was not without a struggle 
wrenched from his hand : he died in a few 
minutes- The consort of this proa, firing a 
parting shot, bore up round the north end 
of the island, and escaped. Their canoes* 
(which we found very useful to us) were 
also brought on shore, containing several 
articles of plunder from the ship. They 
appeared to be the two identical proas 
which set fire to her. The prisoners (the 



# During the time the boats were absent in chase, 
Mr. Fisher, anxious to secure one of the canoes, which 
was drifting past with the current, swam out towards it. 
When within a short distance of his object, an enormous 
shark was seen hovering near him, crossing and re-cross- 
ing, as they are sometimes observed to do, before making a 
seizure. To have called out might probably have un- 
nerved him (for he was unconscious of his situation), and 
it was resolved to let him proceed without remark to 
the canoe, which was the nearest point of security. 
Happily he succeeded in getting safely into it, whilst 
the shark, by his too long delay, lost a very wholesome 
breakfast. 



TO CHINA. 233 

one rather elderly, the other young) when 
brought on shore, seemed to have no hope 
of being permitted to live, and sullenly 
awaited their fate ; but, on the wounds of 
the younger being dressed, the hands of 
the other untied, and food offered to them, 
with other marks of kindness, they became 
more cheerful, and appeared especially 
gratified at seeing one of their dead com- 
panions, who had been brought on shore, 
decently buried. 

The Malays are a people of very 
unprepossessing aspect ; their bodies of a 
deep bronze colour ; their black teeth and 
reddened lips, (from chewing the betel-nut 
and siri), their gaping nostrils, and lank 
clotted hair hanging about their shoulders 
and over their scowling countenances, give 
them altogether a fiend-like and murderous 
look. They are likewise an unjoyous race, 
and seldom smile. 

The state of one of the wounds received 
by the Malay (his knee-joint being pene- 
trated, and the bones much injured) would 
have justified, more particularly in this kind 
of field practice, amputation; but, on 



234 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

consideration that it would be impossible 
to convince him of this being done with the 
intention of benefitting him, and might 
have the appearance of torture, which it 
was not improbable might suggest the idea 
of amputation and other operations to them, 
in the event of any, or all of us, falling into 
their hands, it was determined, therefore, 
to try the effect of a good constitution, 
and careful attention. A little wigwam was 
built, and a blanket and other comforts 
given to him, his comrade being appointed 
his cook and attendant. They refused at 
first the provisions we offered them ; but, 
on giving them some rice to prepare in 
their own way, they seemed satisfied. 
Never expecting quarter, when over- 
powered in their piratical attempts, and 
having been generally tortured w T hen taken 
alive, may account for the others drowning 
themselves. 

. In the forenoon, immediately after this 
rencontre, fourteen proas and smaller boats 
appeared standing across from the Banca 
side, and soon after they anchored behind 
Pulo Chalacca. Several of their people 



TO CHINA. 235 

landed, and carrying up some bundles on 
their shoulders, left them in the wood, and 
returned for more. We had some hope, 
from the direction in which they first 
appeared, as well as their anchoring at 
that spot (the rendezvous agreed upon at 
the departure of Lord Amherst), that 
they might have been from Batavia to our 
relief. 

The small flag (belonging to the em- 
bassy) was brought down and displayed 
on the look-out rock ; the strangers, each, 
immediately hoisted some flag at their 
mast-heads. Anxious to know still more 
about them, Mr. Sykes was allowed to 
advance Avith the union-jack, accompanied 
by some more of the young gentlemen, 
along the strand, to a considerable dis- 
tance ; and soon after some of their party, 
with a flag, set off to meet them. As they 
mutually approached, the Malays drop- 
ped a little in the rear of their flag-bearer, 
and laid down their arms ; ours also fell 
astern, and the two ancients (or colour 
men), wading into a creek which separated 
them, cautiously met each other. The 



236 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

Malay salamed a good deal : many fine 
Yorkshire bows were made on the other 
side : shaking hands was the next cere- 
mony, and then, joining flags, they walked 
up arm and arm to the place where the 
captain and several others were stationed. 
Satisfied now they must be friends sent to 
our assistance, they were welcomed with 
cheers, and every countenance was glad- 
dened. But our joy was of short dura- 
tion ; for, although their flag was laid sub- 
missively at the captain's feet, and all were 
sufficiently civil in their deportment, yet 
they turned out to be mere wanderers, 
employed gathering a sort of sea-weed, 
found on the coast of these (but in still 
greater abundance among the Pelew) 
islands, said by some to be an article of 
commerce with the Chinese epicures, who 
use it like the bird-nests in their soups. 
All this was made out chiefly by signs, 
added to a few Malay words which some 
understood. 

Mr. Hay, with his division armed, pro- 
ceeded down to their anchorage, himself 
and some other officers, going on board 



TO CHINA. 237 

with their Rajah (as they styled him), who 
expressed a great desire to see the captain 
on board, and sent him a present of apiece 
offish, and some cocoa-nut milk. During 
the night many schemes were proposed as 
to the best mode of negotiating with these 
people. Some thought that, by the hope 
of reward, they might be induced to carry 
part of us to Java, and our four remaining 
boats would then be equal to the con- 
veyance of the rest. Others, adverting to 
the treacherous character of the Malays, 
and the great temptation to murder us 
when in their power, from that sort of pro- 
perty still in our possession, and to them of 
great value, considered it safest to seize 
upon and disarm them, carrying ourselves 
to Batavia, and then most amply to remu- 
nerate them for any inconvenience they 
might have sustained from being pressed 
into the service. 

The morning of Thursday, the 27th, 
however, perfectly relieved us from any 
further discussion on this subject, the 
Rajah and his suite having proceeded to 
plunder the wreck, which by this time the/ 



238 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

had espied. It is probable they were not 
certain of our real situation on the first 
evening, but might have supposed, from 
seeing the uniforms, colours, and other 
military appearance, that some settlement, 
as at Minto, (in the Island of Banca) had 
been established there ; and this may also 
account for their civility in the first instance; 
for, from the moment their harpy-like spirit 
was excited by the wreck, and they saw our 
real condition, there were no more offerings 
of fish, or of cocoa-nut milk. 

To have sent the boats openly to attack 
them was judged impolitic ; it would only 
have driven them off for a moment, and 
put them on their guard against surprise 
by night, should it be thought necessary, 
in a day or two, to do so. They could 
deprive us of little ; for the copper bolts 
and iron work, which they were now most 
interested about, were not to us of material 
importance. 

We had the day before moved the boats 
into another cove, more out of sight (from 
the overspreading branches of the trees), 
and safer in case of attack, being com- 



TO CHINA. 239 

manded by two strong little ports (one 
having a rude draw-bridge), erected on the 
rocks immediately above it, and wattled in, 
where an officer and piquet were nightly 
placed ; and a new serpentine path was 
cut down to this inlet, communicating with 
our main position aloft. 

On Friday, the 28th, the Malays were still 
employed on the wreck. A boat approached 
us in the forenoon ; but on the gig going out 
to meet it, they refused to correspond, and 
returned to their party. No relief having 
appeared from Batavia, and the period being 
elapsed at which (as was now thought) we 
had reason to expect it, measures were 
taken, by repairing the launch and con- 
structing a firm raft, to give us additional 
powers of transporting ourselves from our 
present abode, before our stock of provi- 
sions was entirely exhausted. 

On Saturday, the 1st of March, the Ma- 
lays acquired a great accession of strength, 
by the arrival of fourteen more proas from 
the northward (probably of the old party), 
who joined in breaking up the remains of 
the wreck. 



240 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

At day-light, on Sunday, the 2d, still 
greater force having joined them during 
the night, the pirates (leaving a number at 
work on the wreck) advanced, with up- 
wards of twenty of their heaviest vessels, 
towards our landing-place ; fired one of 
their patereroes ; beat their gongs ; and, 
making a hideous yelling noise, they an- 
chored in a line, about a cable's length 
from our cove. We were instantly under 
arms, the party covering the boats strength- 
ened, and scouts sent out to watch their 
motions, as some of their boats had gone 
up the creek, at the back of our position ; 
and to beat about, lest any should be laying 
in ambush from the land. About this time, 
the old Malay prisoner, who was under 
charge of the sentries at the well, and who 
had been incautiously trusted by them to 
cut some wood for the fire, hearing the 
howling of his tribe, left his wounded 
comrade to shift for himself, ran off into 
the wood, and escaped, carrying with him 
his hatchet. Finding, after waiting a short 
time in this state of preparation, that they 
made no attempt to land, an officer was 



TO CHINA. 241 

sent a little outside the cove in a canoe, 
waving in a friendly manner, to try how 
they would act. After some deliberation, 
one of their boats, with several men armed 
with creeses, or their crooked daggers, ap- 
proached : here, as usual, little could be 
made out, except a display of their ma- 
rauding spirit, by taking a fancy to the 
shirt and trowsers of one of the young gen- 
tlemen in the canoe ; but, on his refusing 
to give them up, they used no force. 

A letter was now written, and addressed 
to the chief authority at Minto, a small 
settlement on the northwest point of Banca, 
stating the situation in which we were 
placed, and requesting him to forward, if 
in his power, one or two small vessels to us, 
with a little bread and salt provisions, and 
some ammunition. Again the officer went 
out in the canoe, and was again met by 
the Malay boat. This letter was given to 
them, the word Minto repeatedly pro- 
nounced, (which they seemed to under- 
stand,) the direction pointed out, and signs 
made that on their return with an answer 
they should be rewarded with abundance 

R 



242 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

of dollars, shewing them one as a specimen. 
This was done more to try them than with 
any hope of their performing the service ; 
for, although a boat went down to Pulo 
Chalacca, (where they appeared to have 
somebody in superior authority,) yet none 
took the direction of Banca. Meantime 
their force rapidly increased, their proas 
and boats of different sizes amounting to 
fifty. The larger had from sixteen to 
twenty men ; the smaller about seven or 
eight ; so that, averaging even at the low r est 
ten each, they had fully five hundred men. 
The wreck seemed now nearly exhausted, 
and appeared to be a very secondary ob- 
ject, knowing the chief booty must be in 
our possession ; and they blockaded us 
with increased rigour, drawing closer into 
the cove, more especially at high water, 
fearful lest our boats, being afloat at that 
period, should push out and escape them. 
In the afternoon some of the Rajah's peo- 
ple (whom we at first considered our 
friends) made their appearance, as if seek- 
ing a parley ; and on communicating with 
them, gave us to understand, by signs, and 



TO CHINA. 243 

as many words as could be made out, that 
all the Malays, except their party, were ex- 
tremely hostile to us ; that it was their de- 
termination to attack us that night; and 
urging also that some of their people 
should sleep up the hill, in order to pro- 
tect us. Their former conduct and pre- 
sent connexions displayed so evidently 
the treachery of this offer, that it is need- 
less to say it was rejected, giving them to 
understand we could trust to ourselves. They 
immediately returned to their gang, who 
certainly assumed a most menacing atti- 
tude. In the evening, when the officers and 
men were assembled as usual under arms, 
in order to inspect them, and settle the 
watches for the night, the captain spoke to 
them with much animation, almost verbatim 
as follows : " My lads, you must all have 
observed this day, as well as myself, the 
great increase of the enemy's force, for 
enemies we must now consider them, 
and the threatening posture they have as- 
sumed. I have, on various grounds, strong 
reason to believe they will attack us this 
night. I do not wish to conceal our real 
r 2 



244 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

state, because I think there is not a man 
here who is afraid to face any sort of dan- 
ger. We are now strongly fenced in, and 
our position in all respects so good, that, 
armed as we are, we ought to make a for- 
midable defence against even regular 
troops : what then would be thought of us, 
if we allowed ourselves to be surprised by 
a set of naked savages, with their spears 
and creeses ? It is true they have swivels 
in their boats, but they cannot act here. 
I have not observed that they have any 
matchlocks or muskets ; but, if they have, 
so have we. I do not wish to deceive you 
as to the means of resistance in our power. 
When we were first thrown together on 
shore, we were almost defenceless ; se- 
venty-five ball-cartridges only could be 
mustered : we have now sixteen hundred! 
They cannot, I believe, send up more than 
five hundred men ; but, with two hundred 
such as now stand around me, I do not 
fear a thousand, nay, fifteen hundred of 
them ! I have the fullest confidence we 
shall beat them ; the pike-men standing 
firm, we can give them such a volley of 



TO CHINA. 245 

" musketry as they will be little prepared 
" for; and, when we find they are thrown 
" into confusion, well sally out among 
" them, chase them into the water, and 
" ten to one but we secure their vessels. 
" Let every man, therefore, be on the alert 
" with his arms in his hands ; and, should 
" these barbarians this night attempt our 
" hill, I trust we shall convince them that 
" they are dealing with Britons." Perhaps 
three jollier hurras were never given than 
at the conclusion of this short but well- 
timed address. The woods fairly echoed 
again ; whilst the piquet at the cove, and 
those stationed at the wells, the instant it 
caught their ear, instinctively joined their 
sympathetic cheers to the general chorus. 

There was something like unity and con- 
cord in such a sound, (one neither resem- 
bling the feeble shout nor savage yell,) 
which, rung in the ears of these gentlemen, 
no doubt had its effect ; for about this time 
(8 P.M.) they were observed making signals 
with lights to some of their tribe behind the 
islet. If ever seamen or marines had a 
strong inducement to fight, it was on the 



246 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

present occasion, for every thing conduced 
to animate them. The feeling excited by a 
savage, cruel, and inhospitable aggression 
on the part of the Malays, — an aggression 
adding calamity to misfortune, — roused 
every mind to a spirit of just revenge; and 
the appeal now made to them on the score 
of national character was not likely to let 
that feeling cool. That they might come 
seemed to be the anxious wish of every 
heart. After a slender but cheerful 
repast, the men laid down as usual 
upon their arms, whilst the captain re- 
mained with those on guard to superintend 
his arrangements. An alarm during the 
night shewed the effect of preparation on 
the people's minds, for all like lightning 
were at their posts, and returned growling 
and disappointed because the alarm was 
false. 

Day-light, on Monday the 3d, discovered 
the pirates exactly in the same position in 
front of us ; ten more vessels having joined 
them during the night, making their num- 
ber now at least six hundred men. " The 
u plot began to thicken/' and our situation 



TO CHINA. 247 

became hourly more critical. Their force 
rapidly accumulating, and our little stock 
of provisions daily shortening, rendered some 
desperate measure immediately necessary. 

That which seemed most feasible was by 
a sudden night attack, with our four boats 
well armed, to carry by boarding some of 
their vessels, and, by manning them, repeat 
our attack with increased force, taking 
more, or dispersing them. The possession 
of some of their proas, in addition to our 
own boats, (taking into consideration that 
our numbers would be thinned on the occa- 
sion,) might enable us to shove off for Java, 
in defiance of them. Any attempt to move 
on a raft, with their vessels playing round 
it, armed with swivels, was evidently im- 
possible. Awful as our situation now was, 
and every hour becoming more so ; — starva. 
tion staring us in the face, on one hand, and 
without a. hope of mercy from the savages 
on the other; — yet were there no symptoms 
of depression, or gloomy despair; every 
mind seemed buoyant; and, if any estimate 
of the general feeling could be collected 
from countenances, from the manner and 



248 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

expressions of all, there appeared to be 
formed in every breast a calm determina- 
tion to dash at them, and be successful ; 
or to fall, as became men, in the attempt 
to be free. 

About noon on this day, whilst schemes 
and proposals were flying about, as to the 
mode of executing the measures in view, 
Mr. Johnstone, (ever on the alert,) who had 
mounted the look-out tree, one of the lof- 
tiest on the summit of our hill, descried a 
sail at a great distance to the southward, 
which he thought larger than a Malay ves- 
sel. The buz of conversation was in a 
moment hushed, and every eye fixed anxi- 
ously on the tree for the next report, a 
signal-man and telescope being instantly 
sent up. She was now lost sight of from 
a dark squall overspreading that part of 
the horizon, but in about twenty minutes 
she again emerged from the cloud, and was 
decidedly announced to be a square-rigged 
vessel. " Are you quite sure of that V was 
eagerly inquired : — " Quite certain" was the 
reply :— " it is either a ship or a brig stand- 
ing towards the island, under all sail !" — The 



TO CHINA. 249 

joy this happy sight infused, and the grati- 
tude of every heart at this prospect of de- 
liverance, may be more easily conceived 
than described. It occasioned a sudden 
transition of the mind from one train of 
thinking to another, as if waking from a 
disagreeable dream. We immediately dis- 
played our colours on the highest branch of 
the tree, to attract attention, lest she should 
only be a passing stranger. 

The pirates soon after this discovered the 
ship, (a signal having been made with a 
gun by those anchored behind Pulo Cha- 
lacca,) which occasioned an evident stir 
among them. As the water was ebbing 
fast, it was thought possible, by an unex- 
pected rush out to the edge of the reef, to 
get some of them under fire, and secure 
them. They seemed, however, to have 
suspected our purpose ; for, the moment the 
seamen and marines appeared from under 
the mangroves, the nearest proa let fly her 
swivel among a party of the officers, who 
had been previously wading outwards*, 

* The shot was picked up by one of the young gentlen* n, 
and appeared to be of malleable iron, not quite round. 



250 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCEST1L 

and the whole, instantly getting under 
weigh, made sail off, fired at by our people, 
but unfortunately without effect; for, in 
addition to the dexterous management of 
their boats, the wind enabled them to wea- 
ther the rocks. It was fortunate, however, 
this attack on them took place, and that it 
had the effect of driving them away ; for, 
had they stood their ground, we were as 
much in their power as ever, the ship being 
obliged to anchor eight miles to leeward of 
the island, and eleven or twelve from our 
position, on account of the wind and cur- 
rent ; and, as this wind and current conti- 
nued the same for some time afterwards, 
they might, most easily, (with their force,) 
have cut off all communication between us. 
Indeed it was a most providential and ex- 
traordinary circumstance, during this mon- 
soon, that the ship was able to fetch up so 
far as she did. The blockade being now 
raised, the gig, with Messrs. Sykes and 
Abbot, was despatched to the ship, which 
proved to be the Ternate, one of the com- 
pany's cruizers, sent by Lord Amherst to 
our assistance, having on board Messrs. 



TO CHINA. 251 

Ellis and Hoppner, who embarked on the 
day of their arrival at Batavia, and pushed 
back to the island. 

The gig was able to return (being a light 
boat); but our friends, who attempted to 
pull ashore in the cutter, were compelled 
to put back, after struggling with the cur- 
rent for nine hours, during the night of 
Monday, and morning of Tuesday, the 4th. 
That day was employed in getting all the 
moveables we had saved from the wreck 
ready for embarkation. Wednesday, the 
5th, landed Messrs. Ellis and Hoppner : — 
the recollection of the voluntary promise 
made by the former at parting, now ful- 
filled, and re-appearing as a deliverer, 
added to the many interesting and pecu- 
liar circumstances of the meeting, gave a 
new glow to every feeling of friendship, 
and, on entering Fort Maxwell, they were 
received with heartfelt acclamation by the 
whole garrison under arms. 

This fortification and its inhabitants had 
altogether a very singular and romantic 
look. The wigwams (or dens, as they were 
called) of some, neatly formed by branches, 



252 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

and thatched with the palm-leaf, scattered 
about at the feet of the majestic trees, 
which shaded our circle ; the rude tents or \ 
others ; the wrecked, unshaven, ragged ap- 
pearance of the men, with pikes and cut- 
lasses in their hands, gave, more especially 
by fire-light at night, a wild and picturesque 
effect to this spot, far beyond any robber- 
scene the imagination can portray. 

Two of the Termite's boats also arrived 
with a twelve- pounder carronade, some 
round and grape, and musket ammunition, 
in the event of the pirates thinking proper 
to return before we had finished our busi- 
ness ; which, from the difficulty of commu- 
nicating, required the whole of Wednesday 
to perform. 

On Thursday, the 6th, the majority of 
the officers and men embarked in the boats 
(now increased in number), and proceeded 
to the Ternate ; the raft, also, with four 
officers and forty-six men, (and a cow,) got 
under sail, and, after a comfortable cold- 
bath navigation, of eight hours, reached the 
ship after dark. Every article which could 
not be carried off, and was thought might 



TO CHINA. 253 

be of the slightest use to the savages, was 
piled into a heap, on the top of the hill, and 
made into a bonfire. 

At midnight the boats returned to bring 
off Captain Maxwell, and those remaining 
with him ; the whole arriving safe on board 
the Ternate on the morning of the 7th 
March, where we were most hospitably 
received by Captain Davidson and his 
officers*. 

The island of Pulo Leat is about six 
miles long, and five broad ; situate about 
two degrees and a half to the southward of 
the equator : it lies next to Banca, and is 
in the line of islands between it and Borneo. 
As far as we could explore, (and exploring 
was no easy task,) it appeared to produce 
nothing for the use of man. We found a 
great number of the rinds of what Ave after- 
wards discovered at Batavia to be the far- 
famed and delicious mangustin, which only 
thrives near the Line ; — but the baboons, 
who manage to live here, had previously 

* The wounded Malay was also carried to Batavia, and 
he is now (although with rather a disabled joint) most pro- 
bably employed on board the Temate. 



254 VOYAGE OF II. M. S. ALCESTE 

monopolized all the fruit. Had we found 
any entire, we might have indulged in them, 
even without knowing their nature; as, 
more especially in a case of short commons 
like ours, there could be no great danger 
in following the example of a monkey. 
We found a number of oysters adhering 
to the rocks along the sea-shore, which at 
first we were afraid to eat, from their 
exciting thirst ; but as soon as we were 
happy enough to obtain a sufficient supply 
of water, they very speedily disappeared. 

The soil of the island appears to be 
capable of affording any production of the 
torrid zone, and, if cleared and cultivated, 
would be a very prett}" place ; the tree which 
produces the caoutchouc or Indian rubber 
grows here. 

From something like smoke having been 
repeatedly observed rising at one particular 
place among the trees, about a mile from the 
head of our creek, it was by some imagined 
that either the island was peopled, or that 
the savages had taken post there. In various 
attempts, however, to reconnoitre this spot, 
no trace of human footstep could be found, 



TO CHINA. 255 

being in every direction an impenetrable 
thicket ; and we ultimately ascertained that 
it was entirely uninhabited. 

The small stock of provisions saved from 
the wreck, and the uncertainty of our stay 
there, rendered economy in their distri- 
bution, as well as the preventing any waste 
or abuse, a most important duty. The 
mode adopted by Captain Maxwell, to 
make things go as far as possible, was to 
chop up the allowance for the day into 
small pieces, whether fowls, salt beef, pork, 
or Hour, mixing the whole hotch-potch, 
boiling them together, and serving out a 
measure of this to each, publicly and 
openly*, and without any distinction. By 
these means no nourishment Avas lost ; it 
could be more equally divided than by any 
other way ; and, although necessarily a 
scanty, it was not an unsavoury, mess. All 

* Truth requires it to be stated, and it may naturally 
be supposed, that, among so many, one or two progging 
sort of people might be observed, who had no disincli- 
nation to a little more than their just allowance ; but the 
general feeling was much too maul) and fine to admit of 
contamination. 



256 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

the bread, except a few pounds, was lost. 
The men had half allowance of rum divided 
between dinner and suppei, (sometimes 
more on hard fags,) and the officers two 
glasses of wine at dinner, and a quarter 
allowance of rum (a small dram-glass) at 
supper. It is astonishing how soon order 
sprung out of confusion, and the general 
cheerfulness and content which prevailed, 
for Saturday night was drank in defiance 
of the Malays. 

A small bag of oatmeal was found one 
morning, which some of the young Scotch 
midshipmen considered as their own, and 
sat down, with great glee and smiling 
countenances, round a washhand basin* full 
of burgoo, made from it ; but they reckoned 
too securely on the antipathies of their 
English friends, for (not thinking this, 
perhaps, a proper time for indulging 
national prejudices) they claimed their 
share, and managed to get through it 
without a wry face. A few weeks schooling 
on a desert isle would also be a great 

* Not the only extraordinary mess-dish which this 
occasion had reduced some to. 



TO CHINA. 257 

blessing to many thousands who are capri- 
ciously unhappy in the midst of superfluity, 
and wretched only because they have never 
known distress. 

The guards at the posts, covering the 
boats, were generally under charge, alter- 
nately, of Lieut. Hay, Messrs. Casey, John- 
stone, Sykes, Abbot, Brownrigg, and Hope. 
The garrison duty, at night, was conducted, 
in turns, by the surgeon, chaplain, Messrs. 
Eden, Raper, Mostyn, Stopford, and Gore ; 
thus making it light, and enabling them to 
keep their eyes open, and walk vigilantly 
round to observe that all the sentries were 
on the alert, and called out every quarter of 
an hour ; the younger midshipmen, Messrs. 
Maxwell, Martin, Hawthorn, Gordon, and 
Browne, being perched, in rotation, on the 
look-out rock during the day, to watch the 
motions of the pirates, and give notice of 
any ship or vessel which might appear in 
the offing. 

As there is no evil from which some good 
may not be derived, so the younger officers 
had, on the present occasion, an opportunity 
of marking the resources which spring from 

s 



258 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

self-possession and cool exertion, even un- 
der the most appalling difficulties ; and 
thereby of imbibing a character of promp- 
titude, with a contempt of helpless indeci- 
sion — a failing of all others, in cases of danger 
or emergency, not only the most injurious 
to private fame, but to the public service. 

It is somewhat remarkable, that, during 
our stay here of nineteen days, exposed 
alternately to heavy rain, and the fierce 
heat of a vertical sun, none were taken sick, 
and those who landed so (some very ill) all 
recovered, except a marine, who was in the 
last stage of a liver complaint, contracted 
whilst in China, as one of the guard to the 
Embassador*. Another man, of very trou- 
blesome character, thought proper to leave 
his companions on the third day after 
landing. He may have been bitten by a 
serpent in the woods, and died there, or 
have fallen into the hands of the savages ; 
but he was never afterwards heard of. We 
marked with oil and blacking, in large 

* The only complaint made by this poor fellow, 
(Denyer) in his enfeebled state, was his inability to turn. 
out with his comrades and face the Malays. 



TO CHINA. 259 

characters, on the rocks, the date of our 
departure, to be a guide to any that might 
come there in quest of us, and in the after- 
noon of the 7th, we bid adieu to Pulo Leat, 
where it is not wonderful that, in our situ- 
ation, we should have suffered some hardship 
and privation; but it is remarkable, indeed, 
that, surrounded by so many dangers, the 
occurrence of any one of which would have 
proved fatal, that we should have escaped 
the whole. We had, for example, great 
reason to be thankful that the ship did not 
fall from the rocks on which she first struck 
into deeper water, for then all must have 
perished ; — that no accident happened to 
the boats which conveyed the embassy to 
Batavia ; for, in that case, we should never 
have been heard of; — that we found water ; 
— that no mutiny or division took place 
among ourselves ; — that we had been able 
and willing to stand our ground against the 
pirates ; — and that the Ternate had suc- 
ceeded in anchoring in sight of the island ; 
which she was only enabled to do by a for- 
tuitous slant of wind for an hour or two. 
Had we been unfortunate in any one of 

s 2 



200 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

these circumstances, iew would have re- 
mained to tell our tale. 

It is a tribute due to Captain Maxwell 
to state, (and it is a tribute which all most 
cheerfully pay,) that, by his judicious 
arrangements, we were preserved from all 
the horrors of anarchy and confusion. His 
measures inspired confidence and hope ; 
whilst his personal example, in the hour of 
danger, gave courage and animation to all 
around him. 

We arrived at Batavia on the 9th, and, 
from the Ternate being so small, a number 
of our party crossed in the boats, which 
kept company with the ship. On the 10th 
we landed, and were most hospitably 
received by Lord Amherst, who converted 
his table into a general mess for the officers, 
as well as the embassy. Comfortable 
quarters were also provided for the men*, 
who, in a day or two, landed, and marched 

* The hospitable houses of Messrs. Milne and Terre- 
neau, afforded lodging to the officers during their stay ; 
and much kind attention was experienced from Captains 
Forbes, Dalgairns, Hanson, and M'Mahon ; on the staff 
of Sir William Kelr. 



TO CHINA. 



261 



through Batavia to Weltevreden, with the 
flag which had been saved. They were met 
at Ryswick by his lordship, who kindly 
accompanied them up to his own house, 
from whence, after receiving some refresh- 
ment, they proceeded to their barrack. At 
Weltevreden, also, the officers met with a 
small, but choice, band of their country- 
men, whose society will not be easily for- 
gotten, or ever remembered without plea- 
sure. 

A short journal of Lieutenant Cooke 
describes the passage of the embassy across 
the Javanese sea, in the boats. — " i\t seven 
** in the evening of Wednesday, the 19th 
" of February, all arrangements having 
" been speedily made, the barge and cutter 
" weighed, and pulled out to seaward, there 
" being a heavy swell across the reef; — 
" soon after made sail, and sounded in 
" nineteen fathoms ; — kept more to the 
" southward, having got into mid-chan- 
" nel;— at nine at night, Entrance Point, in 
" the island of Banca, bore west, three or 
" four miles. 

" Thursday, the 20th. — At day-light, the 
" cutter in company ; moderate breezes at 



262 VOYAGE OF H. SI. S. ALCESTE 

" W. N. W., and fair, with a smooth sea; 
" high land of Banca bearing north ; — 
" having been much crowded in the night, 
" some shifted into the other boat, in order 
" to equalize the numbers. At seven, 
" served out, for the first time, some pro- 
" visions : a small portion of fresh meat 
" and biscuit, with a gill of water and half 
" a gill of rum, to each person. At ten a 
" heavy squall occurred, attended by rain, 
" which enabled us, by spreading cloths, 
" and wringing them, to catch a bucket of 
" rain-water, affording, to each person, 
" about half a pint. Light airs, and calm : 
" occasionally found it necessary to pull 
" eight oars, and, by the assistance of the 
" marines, we had two reliefs. Spelled the 
" oars every two hours. Served out pro- 
" visions and grog in the usual small pro- 
" portions. Lowered the sails, the wind 
" being adverse, afterwards becoming 
" calm, and at other times light breezes 
" from the south-west : each person had 
" about half a pint of beer. Lightning 
" from west to south-west, — water very 
" smooth, — midnight, light airs. 

" Friday, the 21st. — Moderate breezes 



TO CHINA. 263 

" from the westward, which soon became 
" squally, and more to the southward, 
" occasioned by a swell of the sea. At 
44 seven o'clock served out the remains of 
" the fresh meat, and the usual gill of 
44 water, and half a gill of rum. Examined 
" stock after breakfast, and found remain- 
44 ing six gallons of water ; spruce beer, 
" eight gallons ; rum, four gallons and a 
" half; beer, four gallons ; wine, nineteen 
44 bottles; five ditto of additional water, 
44 one ham, one tongue, and thirty pounds 
44 of bread. Served out, at twelve o'clock, 
44 some spruce to all hands. In the after- 
44 noon, served grog in the usual quantity. 
44 Continued rowing all night, and gave 
44 some spruce beer to the rowers, who 
" began to be much fatigued. Wind 
44 variable from west to south-west. 

44 Saturday the 22d. — Continued pulling 
44 all this morning, the breeze being very 
44 light ; mustered provisions, and found 
44 them much reduced. At seven o'clock 
44 issued grog and a little bread to each, 
44 reserving a ham, the only meat now 
44 remaining, until dinner time. All the 



264 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

" gentlemen who could pull relieved the 

" rowers. About one o'clock a favourable 

" breeze sprung up at N. W. : made all 

" sail, and at half-past three o'clock saw 

" Carawang Point, in Java, distant about 

" nine or ten miles. At six o'clock 

" the land-breeze coming off obliged the 

" boats to anchor. Served out part of the 

" ham, and a little biscuit and grog, as 

" usual. At seven the wind moderated a 

" little, and an attempt was made to row 

" in ; but, the people being nearly ex- 

" hausted, anchored again at nine o'clock ; 

" the cutter having no grapnel, made fast 

" to the barge. The night was fine, but a 

" heavy swell occasioned the boat to roll 

" extremely. 

" Sunday morning the 23d, the people 

" having had some repose, and a little 

;t refreshment served out to them, weighed 

" the grapnel, and pulled towards Batavia. 

" Between the two points of land here, we 

" accidentally fell in, although at a con- 

" siderable distance from the shore, with 

" a stream of fresh water running into the 

" sea, which put all in high spirits. To 



TO CHINA. 265 

" prevent any ill consequences, a little 
" rum was put into a bucket, and every 
" man drank about a pint. A favourable 
" breeze also sprung up, and at half past 
" ten o'clock we went alongside the ship 
" Princess Charlotte, in the roads, where 
ie we were very kindly received, our stock 
" of provisions for forty-seven being at this 
" time four or five pounds of bread, and 
" (previous to falling in with the stream 
" of fresh water in the sea), one gallon of 
" water, one gallon of rum, and five 
" bottles of wine, with some Madeira in a 
" jar/' During the whole of this little 
voyage the strictest equality was observed 
in the distribution of provisions ; and if 
any distinction was made it was in favour 
of the rowers, those gentlemen who were 
unable to pull themselves taking a rather 
smaller proportion than those who did. 

The circumstance of the stream of fresh 
water, which seemed so providentially to 
extend into the sea, and afforded so much 
relief, is found to exist in many parts of 
the world, and has been lately turned to 
advantage by out Toulon fleet, which was 






266 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

enabled to water at the mouth of the Rhone, 
almost without losing sight of the port it 
was blockading. 

Off the Mississippi, ships can water even 
out of sight of land ; and the same is stated 
to be the case with the Oronoco, in South 
America. This will most probably be 
found in all narrow-mouthed rivers, which 
burst suddenly on the sea ; where from the 
fresh being specifically lighter than the salt 
water, it naturally floats on the surface of 
the heavier body, and remains unmixed as 
long as the current retains its force. 

The chief discomfort of this boat-voyage 
proceeded from being so crowded, and 
being obliged to sit so long in a particular 
posture, and the great distress arising from 
thirst. It was very difficult indeed to 
prevent the people from drinking salt 
water; one man became delirious, and it 
was attributed to this cause. It most 
probably, however, arose from the ex- 
treme irritation occasioned by thirst; for 
salt water, although an article of Materia 
Medica in very extensive use, has never 
been known to take the direction of the head . 



TO CHINA. 267 

About the 21st March the ship Char- 
lotte, which had sailed for the purpose 
of relieving us, returned to Batavia, 
in company with the Ternate, having on 
board Messrs. Mayne, Blair, and Marrige. 
After beating against wind and current, 
from the 24th February to the l6'th March, 
without being able to fetch farther than 
the south-east end of Banca, the current 
constantly sweeping them to leeward the mo- 
ment they opened the Straits, Mr. Mayne, 
rinding nothing was to be done in the 
ship, resolved to shove off in the barge, 
accompanied by the above gentlemen, and 
Mr. Thompson the supercargo, with two 
casks of water and one of beef for us, in 
the event of being still on the island. They 
tugged at the oars until the next day, when, 
arriving in sight of the place we had occu- 
pied, they found a large flotilla of the pi- 
rates at anchor there, three of whom imme- 
diately gave chase to our boat. There was 
no time to be lost; the barge made sail; 
but, in addition to their sails, the Malays 
pulled furiously, and were gaining fast. 
The beef and water were now thrown over- 



268 VOYAGE OF H.M.S. ALCESTE 

board, to lighten the barge ; and, knowing 
whom they had to deal with, they pre- 
pared, being tolerably armed, to sell them- 
selves as dearly as possible. Fortunately at 
this moment a strong squall occurred, which 
compelled the Malays to lower their sails, 
whilst the barge, carrying through all, got 
a-head and escaped, the pirates hauling 
their wind again towards the island. 

These proas were probably of the more 
distant islands, who, having only lately 
heard of the wreck, had arrived a day after 
the fair, and were hungry, and annoyed at 
finding no plunder. 

The ready acquiescence of Lord Amherst 
to proceed in the boats, appears to have 
been attended with the happiest conse- 
quences ; for the indecision of a single day 
in this respect would in all probability have 
placed him in the hands of these savages, 
and thereby occasioned the most fatal 
results. 



TO CHINA. 269 



CHAP. VII. 



Remarks on Java — Passage homewards — Touch 
at the Cape of Good Hope and St. Helena — 
Arrival in England. 



NOTHING could exceed the deplorable 
state of Java at the period of its conquest 
by the British forces in 1811. The natives 
had at all times been enslaved and oppressed 
by the Dutch colonists ; and, from the strict 
blockade of our cruizers, the produce of 
the soil which they were unable to export 
was rotting in their warehouses, and re- 
ducing the latter to a state of bankruptcy. 

The system of government immediately 
introduced by Lord Minto, undertheablesu- 
perintendence of Mr. (now Sir Thos.) Raffles, 
corresponding with that existing in British 
(and what is here termed western) India, 
very much altered the state of affairs; but it 



270 VOYAGE OF If. M. S. ALCESTE 

more especially ameliorated the condition 
of the native Javanese. It had been usual 
to compel the people to labour at the pub- 
lic works, whenever occasion required, with- 
out any, or at least for a very inadequate, 
remuneration. They were also obliged to 
deliver in a certain quantity of produce, 
often exceeding what they were able to af- 
ford ; whilst they were tyrannically restrict- 
ed to the cultivation of those articles onlj T 
which best answered the purposes of the 
Dutch monopolists. By the new order of 
things these forced services were imme- 
diately abolished. The people were paid a 
reasonable price for their voluntary labour ; 
and, instead of arbitrary and compulsory 
deliveries, encouragement was given to grow 
what were considered the most valuable 
productions of the island, and the Javanese 
were now stimulated to exertion by having 
an interest in the fruits of their industry. 
The revenue was now raised (except in one 
or two immaterial instances, which could 
not at once be conveniently altered) by a 
moderate land-tax on the whole. The Ra- 
jahs or Regents of the different districts 



TO CHINA. 271 

were allowed (and indeed preferred) a 
fixed salary, to abandon their claims to the 
former harsh method of raising their in- 
comes, whilst they were still intrusted under 
proper surveillance with the administration 
of the laws, which were also new-modelled 
and rendered more equitable, torture being 
abolished, and the instruments burnt in 
the public square. The Chinese farmers of 
revenue, employed under the Dutch, who 
possessed peculiar ingenuity in squeezing 
the natives, were either removed, or their 
conduct narrowly inspected by the British 
residents*. In Java there is no interrup- 
tion to the course of vegetation. The spring 
is eternal ; and it is quite usual on the same 
day to see them sowing in one field, the 



* Sir T. Raffles, in his elaborate work on Java, states, 
" that whenever the Chinese formed extensive settlements 
" in Java, the native inhabitants had no alternative but 
" that of abandoning the district, or of becoming slaves 
" of the soil. Their monopolizing spirit was often 
** even pernicious to the produce, as may be seen 
" at this day in the immediate vicinity of Batavia, 
" where all the public markets are farmed by them, and 
" the degeneracy and poverty of the lower classes are 
" proverbial." 



272 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

second in half blossom, and reaping in the 
third. But with all these advantages of 
soil and climate the people had been driven 
to relinquish their native villages, and even 
to destroy the trees which the cruel impo- 
licy of the whites compelled them to cul- 
tivate, equally against their interest and 
their inclination. 

In the first settlement of colonies, it is 
notorious that enormities were committed 
by all Europeans on the aborigines of the 
country ; but without flattering our amour 
■propre national, this unconciliatory and over- 
bearing system seems to have been far less 
practised by us than by other nations, if 
we may judge from the comparative per- 
sonal security with which a Briton roams 
every where at large. Previ > to our 
possession of Java, (when travelling became 
even more safe than in England), no 
Dutchman ever ventured to undertake a 
journey among the natives without a guard. 
The same is the case with the Portuguese 
and the original Brazilians, as well as the 
Spaniards at Manilla, and throughout the 
whole island of Luconia. 



TO CHINA. 273 

With the Javanese harsh and rigorous 
measures seem, and indeed have been 
clearly proved to be, as unnecessary as they 
are unjustifiable, for few people bear a 
more mild, docile, or inoffensive character. 
They are a distinct race from the Malays 
of the coasts, not only speaking a different 
language, but are anxious not to be con- 
founded with them. Lord Minto, who 
was personally at Java at the period of its 
falling into our possession, made the fol- 
lowing observations on the existing state 
of affairs, and the alterations he judged 
necessary : — 

" Contingents of rice, and, indeed, of 
" other productions, have been hitherto 
" required of the cultivators, by govern- 
" ment, at an arbitrary rate; this also, is 
" a vicious system, to be abandoned as 
" soon as possible. The system of con- 
" tingents did not arise from the mere 
" solicitude for the people, but was a mea- 
" sure alone of finance and control, to 
"enable government to derive a revenue 
" from a high price imposed on the con- 
" sumer, and to keep the whole body of 

T 



274 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTJi, 

" the people dependent on its pleasure 
" for subsistence. I recommend a radical 
" reform in this branch to the serious and 
; ' early attention of government. The 
" principle of encouraging industry in the 
M cultivation and improvement of lands, 
" by creating an interest in the effort and 
" fruits of that industry, can be expected 
" in Java only by a fundamental change 
" of the whole system of landed property 
" and tenure. A wide field, but a sorne- 
" what distant one, is open to this great 
" and interesting improvement ; the dis- 
" cussion of the subject, however, must 
" necessarily be delayed till the investiga- 
" tion it requires is more complete. I 
" shall transmit such thoughts as I have 
" entertained, and such hopes as I have 
" indulged, in this grand object of ame- 
" lioration ; but I am to request the aid of 
" all the information, and all the lights, 
" that this island can afford. On this 
" branch, nothing must be done that is 
" not mature, because the change is too 
" extensive to be suddenly or ignorantly 
" attempted. But fixed and immutable 



TO CHINA. 275 

" principles of the human character, and 
" of human association, assure me of ulti- 
" mate, and, I hope, not remote success, 
" in views that are consonant with every 
" motive of action that operates on man, 
" and are justified by the practice and 
" experience of every flourishing country 
" of the world." 

The wisdom and sound policy of these 
liberal and enlightened views have been 
fully proved by the increasing happiness 
and prosperity of the colony, from the day 
they were practically adopted, up to the 
period of the transfer of the island; and 
that the same system should be continued 
under the restored government appears to 
be the decided opinion of the wisest and 
most clear-sighted of the Dutch colonists ; 
as well for its obvious justice and humanity, 
as from a conviction of its superior efficacy 
in every other respect. 

At the same time measures were taken to 
abolish slavery, for the continuance of 
which, in Java, there appeared not even 
the plea of expediency. The farther impor- 
tation of slaves was forbidden, (for they were 
t 2 



276 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

generally brought, for obvious reasons, 
from the neighbouring islands), and regu- 
lations were formed for the protection and 
better treatment of those actually existing. 
They were not allowed, for instance, to be 
sold or transferred from one master to 
another, but with their own approbation ; 
they were permitted the right of acquiring 
property either by their own industry, or 
from the gifts of others, independently of 
the control of their masters, which they 
might appropriate, if they thought proper, 
after a certain term, to the purchase of 
their freedom, at a reasonable valuation, 
subject to the approval of a magistrate. 
An annual registry of each slave was also 
required, and a tax laid upon that 
registry, the proceeds of which were 
applied to charitable purposes ; and, in 
any instance where this registry was 
omitted to be given in, the slave was 
declared free. 

Although their present religion is that of 
Mahomet, (with a mixture of Paganism), 
yet the numerous relics of Hinduism, in 
high preservation throughout the island, 



TO CHINA. 277 

evidently shew that the latter was the 
original mode of worship. Indeed, Balli, 
one of the neighbouring islands, perforins 
the Hindu rites at this day. 

Batavia is considered, and with much 
reason, to be one of the most unhealthy 
spots in the world. But this character is 
applicable only to the town itself; which, 
agreeably to Dutch usage, wherever they 
could find one, is built in a swamp. The 
effect of this, within seven degrees of the 
equator, is precisely what might be ex- 
pected ; but at Ryswick and Weltevreden, 
where the ground rises, certainly, not above 
a dozen or fifteen feet, and situated within 
three miles of the town, health is retained, 
at least as perfectly as in any other part of 
India ; and it has been even said that a 
battalion of a regiment quartered there has 
returned a smaller sick report than the other, 
stationed in some part of England. No Euro- 
pean, who can possibly avoid it, ever sleeps 
in the city ; but, after transacting his business, 
removes to the neighbourhood. Among 
seamen and soldiers, a night or two spent in 
Batavia is deemed mortal ; but the in- 



278 VOYAGE OF II. M. S. ALCESTE 

creased fatality among this class of the com- 
munity proceeds evidently from their never 
sleeping there but for the express purpose of 
getting drunk ; and, when immersion in pu- 
trid and marsh effluvia, in so hot a climate, 
is applied to a body, rendered highly suscep- 
tible of their impression from previous 
ebriety, it is not to be wondered that a 
fever of the worst class should be the con- 
sequence. They are also not so likely, 
in these cases, to receive that prompt as- 
sistance which alone can save them ; for, 
conscious of having been irregular in their 
conduct, they are ashamed and unwilling 
to make application until it is often too 
late ; and the loss of a single day will, in 
severer cases, be attended, in all probability, 
with the most dangerous consequences *. 



* Captain Charles Ross, of the Pique, in the West 
Indies, among other judicious regulations of that ex- 
cellent officer, (whose orders were neither multiplied nor 
confused, and, for that reason, more likely to be rational,) 
always considered a man found drunk to be an object 
for the surgeon's immediate care, in the first instance ; 
and it is astonishing the good effect this had, not only in 
preventing drunkenness, but in obviating its effects. 



TO CHINA. 279 

The insalubrity of Batavia is attributed, 
but with little appearance of justice, to the 
numerous canals which intersect the town ; 
for they rather seem to do good, by acting 
as drains, in a marshy soil; and, if they 
are the receptacles of filth and -carcasses, 
(which appeared not to be the case,) it is 
the fault of the police, and not of the canals. 
Rice-fields, creating an artificial swamp, in 
addition to the natural moisture of the 
ground, are an evident cause of mischief, 
and certainly ought not to be permitted 
to exist in the immediate vicinity of a po- 
pulous city ; as they cannot be at all 
necessary in a country, two-thirds of which 
is uncultivated. 

The climate of Java may be varied at 
pleasure, from the suffocating heat of Ban- 
tam, or Batavia, to the cool, and even 
keen air of the mountains, where fires and 
blankets are necessary ; which, to invalids 
requiring an immediate change of tem- 
perature, is an advantage of the highest 
importance. 

It is observable that all colonies are very 
defective in seminaries of education ; — a 



280 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALOESTE 

defect, more especially in those that are 
extensive and populous, for which there 
can be no good excuse, and is attended 
with much inconvenience ; for either the 
youth of both sexes receive no education 
at all, or must be sent home, at a great 
expense, for that purpose. This would 
appear to be much the case at Batavia, for 
the young men required to fill situations 
of responsibility must be supplied by fresh 
importations ; and the ladies, surrounded 
by a crowd of flattering slave-girls, gene- 
rally creolizc* the whole day in a delectable 
state of apathy, without any sort of occu- 
pation ; at sun-set, perhaps, taking a short 
airing in the environs. The elder dames 
inveterately adhere to the kubaya (a loose 
sort of gown, or wrapper, sometimes richly 
embroidered) ; but the English and French 
modes are universal among the rising ge- 
neration. They form a curious contrast 

* Creolizing is an easy and elegant mode of lounging 
in a warm climate; so called, because much in fashion 
among the ladies of the West Indies : that is, reclining 
back in one arm-chair, with their feet upon another, and 
sometimes upon the table. 



TO CHINA. 281 

on public occasions, for, although sump- 
tuary laws exist, which prevent, more espe- 
cially ladies, from wearing jewels beyond a 
certain amount, and appearing abroad at- 
tended by servants exceeding the number 
allowed for the particular rank of their 
husbands or fathers, yet all classes, male 
and female, seem privileged to undress 
themselves as they please. 

One evening, on our passage outwards, 
at a grand ball given at the Harmonie 
by the British army officers, on the anni- 
versary of the battle of Waterloo, an old 
gentleman, in a full suit of black, highly 
trimmed, and in the cut of the last century, 
was seen strutting about the room with a 
white night-cap on his head. Indeed, at 
dinner, in the best companies, they do not 
hesitate to wear their hats, if there is the 
least motion in the air, for they dread 
nothing so much as sitting in a current. 

The villas of the councillors of the Indies 
are distinguished by having black instead 
of white statues in their fronts, and about 
their gardens. They are, generally, heavy- 
looking houses, situated on the Jacatra 



282 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

* 

and Ryswick roads, but have an air of 
stateliness. 

The restored Dutch government profess 
to act upon the principles which have been 
found successful during our possession; but 
a circumstance which occurred a short time 
before our arrival here evinced strong 
symptoms of a recurrence to the system of 
terror. A body of the natives, about five 
hundred in number, having had some 
dispute with the local authorities near Indra 
Mayo, whilst making representation about 
some hardship (which they had been lately 
freely in the habit of doing, whenever they 
considered themselves in any way aggrieved), 
were seized, and confined in a house, which, 
like the black hole at Calcutta, being too 
small for the prisoners, they, in desperation, 
attempted to break through the roof; when 
a body of military having by this time been 
collected, they were fired upon, the greater 
part killed, and the remainder, in some 
way or other, destroyed. It is somewhat 
remarkable that the Dutch, who are, at 
home, a very unassuming, plain, and 
moral sort of people, should have displayed, 



TO CHINA. 283 

on so many occasions, a ferocious and 
blood-thirsty disposition in their colonies *. 
Marshal Daendels, it is confessed, made 
many judicious arrangements by the vigour 
of his measures, had he only been a little 
more scrupulous as to the mode of obtain- 
ing his purposes ; but, to use his own 
expression, he " found it necessary to put 
" himself above the usual formalities, and 
" to disregard every law but that which 
" enjoined the preservation of the colony 
" intrusted to his management/' 

On one occasion he is said to have 
requested the magistrates to demolish their 
grand church in Batavia, which was not 
only in the way of some favourite scheme 
he had in view, but its cupola was the only 
land-mark for entering the bay, and, as 
such, greatly assisted the enemy's cruizers. 
The burgomasters ventured to oppose this 
project. In a very short time the church 
was found to be on fire ; and the building 
being thereby in a great degree consumed 



* The Dutch will have considerable difficulty in 
retaining their possessions in this quarter. 



284 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

and damaged, the remainder Avas soon 
razed to the ground *. His great military 
road, carried some hundred miles across 
the island, cost the lives of thousands of 
the Javanese, who were sacrificed to the 
system of forced services. lie appears to 
have been little less despotic with the 
whites ; and many stories are told about 
him, " that he could even make hens lay 
" eggs when he thought proper;" but, 
although all seem to agree that he carried 
a high and imperious hand, yet none dare, 
even now, speak ill of him, for fear he may 
return. 

In equipping a considerable army, 
merely from the resources of the country, 
when entirely cut off from any communi- 
cation with Europe, supplying them with 
a cloth adapted to the climate, and fur- 
nishing them with most of the other 
accoutrements, he put the manufacturing 
talents of the natives to the test, and he 
succeeded. 

Sir William Keir, Mr. Fendal, and 

* The incendiaries were never found out. 



TO CHINA. 285 

Mr. Cranssen, were still, at Batavia, for 
the purpose of finally adjusting the trans- 
fer of the colonies, with the commissioners 
of his majesty, the king of the Nether- 
lands. The Dutch squadron was absent 
at the different islands, resuming possession 
of them. They had, as well as the land- 
forces, suffered a very heavy loss from 
deaths; and the Baron de Capellan, who 
is individually a man of humanity, and 
was extremely solicitous about their pre- 
servation, was stated to have personally 
interfered with the medical staff, who 
appear to have been much wedded to the 
old-fashioned practice, and to have given 
positive orders that the mode of managing 
the sick, which had proved successful with 
our troops on the very same ground, should 
be adhered to. 

The ship Caesar, Captain Taylor, which 
had been engaged to carry to England the 
embassy, with the officers and crew of the 
Alceste, being now ready for sea, her 
equipment having been expedited by the 
assistance of our artificers, Lord Amherst 
embarked on the 12th of April, attended 



286 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

by Sir William Keir, and all his staff, and 
received from the Dutch authorities every 
mark of respect due to his rank. We sailed 
on the same morning, and soon clearing the 
Straits of Sunda, proceeded with a fair wind 
across the Indian Ocean. 

The gay scenes we had experienced for 
the last few weeks among our friends at 
Weltevreden and Batavia, which we had 
enjoyed with the greater spirit from our 
previous adventures, made us now more 
susceptible of the dull sameness attending 
our present sky-and-water view. But a cir- 
cumstance occurred, of all others, pro- 
ducing; the most instantaneous and effectual 
relief from this feeling of tedium vitce or 
ennui. The ship, one morning, was de- 
clared to be on fire in the after store-room, 
and (to render the intelligence still more 
agreeable and interesting) close to the 
magazine, whilst the flames seen in that 
direction, and volumes of smoke now 
bursting forth, left no doubt of the fact. 
In a moment the liveliest bustle took place 
of listless yawning, and every mind was 
roused into a state of the highest activity. 



TO CHINA. 287 

To be in a ship on fire in the middle of 
the ocean is supposed to be the most awk- 
ward and unenviable situation in which a 
man of weak nerves can be placed. Some 
again assert that it affords, more than any 
other occasion, an opportunity for the 
display of coolness, presence of mind, and 
decision. Happily, there were not want- 
ing many possessing the latter qualities, 
who, by pushing through the smoke to the 
point of danger, and scuttling the decks 
immediately above the place, succeeded 
in extinguishing the flames in about three 
quarters of an hour, but not without con- 
siderable difficulty and damage. Very 
fortunately it was washing morning, and, 
of course, buckets, and other water uten- 
sils, were at hand. Had the accident 
taken place during the night, or had it 
been unobserved for a few minutes longer, 
and the fire had communicated to some oil 
and other combustibles near it, no human 
power could have saved us. This alarm- 
ing occurrence, so nearly proving fatal, was 
occasioned by an idle looby, belonging to 
the Caesar, carelessly pumping off spirits 



288 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

with a naked light, in order to preserve the 
body of a parrot, which had died the night 
before. It had the effect, however, of oc- 
casioning the most rigorous precautions in 
future. 

Notwithstanding the crowded state of 
the Caesar, two passengers, of rather a 
singular nature, were put on board at 
Batavia, for a passage to England : the 
one, a snake of that species called Boa 
Constrictor; the other, an Ourang Outang. 
- — The former was somewhat small of his 
kind, being only about sixteen feet long, 
and of about eighteen inches in circum- 
ference; but his stomach was rather dispro- 
portionate to his size, as will presently 
appear. He was a native of Borneo, and 
was the property of a gentleman (now in 
England), who had two of the same sort; 
but, in their passage up to Batavia, one of 
them broke loose from his confinement, 
and very soon cleared die decks, as every 
body very civilly made way for him, and 
ran up the rigging, or to some other place 
of security. Not being used to a ship, 
however, or taking, perhaps, the sea for a 



TO CHINA. 289 

green field, he sprawled overboard, and 
was drowned. He is said not to have 
sunk immediately, but to have reared his 
head several times, and with it a consider- 
able portion of his body, out of the sea. 
His companion, lately our shipmate, was 
brought safely on shore, and lodged in the 
court-yard of Mr. Davidson's house at 
Ryswick, where he remained for some 
months, waiting for an.opportunity of being 
conveyed home in some commodious ship 
sailing directly for England, in which he 
was likely to be carefully attended to. 
This opportunity offered in the Caesar, and 
he was accordingly embarked on board of 
that ship with the rest of her numerous 
passengers. 

During his stay at Ryswick he is said to 
have been usually entertained with a goat 
for dinner, once in every three or four 
weeks, with occasionally a duck or a fowl, 
by way of a dessert. — He was brought on 
board shut up in a wooden crib or cage, 
the bars of which were sufficiently close to 
prevent his escape ; and it had a sliding 
door, for the purpose of admitting the 

u 



290 VOYAGE OF II. M. S. ALCESTE 

articles on which he was to subsist ; the 
dimensions of the crib were about four 
feet high, and five feet square ; a space 
sufficiently large to allow him to coil him- 
self round with ease. The live stock for 
his use during the passage, consisting of 
six goats of the ordinary size, were sent 
with him on board, five being considered 
as a fair allowance for as many months. 
At an early period of the voyage we had 
an exhibition of his talent in the way of 
eating, which was publicly performed on 
the quarter-deck, upon which he was 
brought. The sliding door being opened, 
one of the goats was thrust in, and the 
door of the cage shut. The poor goat, as 
if instantly aware of all the horrors of its 
perilous situation, immediately began to 
utter the most piercing and distressing 
cries, butting instinctively, at the same 
time, with its head towards the serpent, in 
self-defence. 

The snake, which at first appeared 
scarcely to notice the poor animal, soon 
began to stir a little, and, turning his head 
in the direction of the goat, he at length 



TO CH7NA. 291 

fixed a deadly and malignant eye on the 
trembling victim, whose agony and terror 
seemed to increase ; for, previous to the 
snake seizing his prey, it shook in every 
limb, but still continuing its unavailing 
show of attack, by butting at the serpent, 
which now became sufficiently animated to 
prepare for the banquet. The first opera- 
tion was that of darting out his forked 
tongue, and at the same time rearing 
a little his head ; then suddenly seizing 
the goat by the fore leg with his mouth, 
and throwing it down, it was encircled in 
an instant in his horrid folds. So quick, 
indeed, and so instantaneous was the act, 
that it was impossible for the eye to follow 
the rapid convolution of his elongated 
body. It was not a regular screw-like turn 
that was formed, but resembling rather a 
knot, one part of the body overlaying the 
other, as if to add weight to the muscular 
pressure, the more effectually to crush his 
object. During this time he continued to 
grasp with his fangs, though it appeared 
an unnecessary precaution, that part of 
the animal which he had first seized. The 

u 2 



292 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

poor goat, in the mean time, continued its 
feeble and half-stifled cries for some 
minutes, but they soon became more and 
more faint, and at last it expired. The 
snake, however, retained it for a consider- 
able time in his grasp, after it was apparently 
motionless. He then slowly and cau- 
tiously unfolded himself, till the goat fell 
dead from his monstrous embrace, when 
he began to prepare himself for swallow- 
ing it. Placing his mouth in front of 
the head of the dead animal, he com- 
menced by lubricating with his saliva that 
part of the goat; and then taking its 
muzzle into his mouth, which had, and 
indeed always has, the appearance of a 
raw lacerated wound, he sucked it in, as 
far as the horns would allow. These pro- 
tuberances opposed some little difficulty, 
not so much from their extent, as from 
their points ; however, they also, in a very 
short time, disappeared ; that is to say, 
externally ; but their progress was still to be 
traced very distinctly on the outside, threat- 
ening every moment to protrude through 
the skin. The victim had now descended as 



TO CHINA. 293 

far as the shoulders ; and it was an asto- 
nishing sight to observe the extraordinary 
action of the snake's muscles when 
stretched to such an unnatural extent — an 
extent which must have utterly destroyed 
all muscular power in any animal that 
was not, like himself, endowed with very 
peculiar faculties of expansion and action 
at the same time. When his head and 
neck had no other appearance than that of 
a serpent's skin, stuffed almost to bursting, 
still the workings of the muscles were evi- 
dent ; and his power of suction, as it is 
erroneously called, unabated ; it was, in 
fact, the effect of a contractile muscular 
power, assisted by two rows of strong 
hooked teeth. With all this he must be so 
formed as to be able to suspend, for a 
time, his respiration, for it is impossible to 
conceive that the process of breathing 
could be carried on while the mouth and 
throat were so completely stuffed and 
expanded by the body of the goat, and the 
lungs themselves (admitting the trachea to 
be ever so hard) compressed, as they must 
have been, by its passage downwards. 



1294 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

The whole operation of completely 
gorging the goat occupied about two hours 
and twenty minutes : at the end of which 
time, the tumefaction was confined to the 
middle part of the body, or stomach, the 
superior parts, which had been so much 
distended, having resumed their natural 
dimensions. He now coiled himself up 
again, and laid quietly in his usual torpid 
state for about three weeks or a month, 
when, his last meal appearing to be com- 
pletely digested and dissolved, he was 
presented with another goat, which he 
killed and devoured with equal facility. 
It would appear that almost all he swallows 
is converted into nutrition, for a small 
quantity of calcareous matter (and that, 
perhaps, not a tenth part of the bones of 
the animal) with occasionally some of the 
hairs, seemed to compose his general 
faeces ; — and this may account for these 
animals being able to remain so long 
without a supply of food. He had more 
difficulty in killing a fowl than a larger 
animal, the former being too small for his 
grasp. 



TO CHINA. 295 

Few of those who had witnessed his first 
exhibition were desirous of being present 
at the second. A man may be impelled 
by curiosity, and a wish to ascertain the 
truth of a fact frequently stated, but which 
seems almost incredible, to satisfy his own 
mind by ocular proof; but he will leave 
the scene with those feelings of horror and 
disgust, which such a sight is well calcu- 
lated to create. It is difficult to behold, 
without the most painful sensation, the 
anxiety and trepidation of the harmless 
victim, or to observe the hideous writhing 
of the serpent around his prey, and not to 
imagine what our own case would be in the 
same helpless and dreadful situation. 

A lion, a tiger, and other beasts of prey, 
are sufficiently terrible ; but they seldom, 
unless strongly urged by hunger, attack 
human beings, and generally give some 
sort of warning; but, against the silent, sly, 
and insidious approach of a snake, there is 
no guarding, nor any escape when once 
entwined within his folds. 

As we approached the Cape of Good 
Hope, this animal began to droop, as was 



296 VOYAGE OF H. M. 5. ALCESTE 

then supposed, from the increasing cold- 
ness of the weather, (which may probably 
have had its influence), and he refused to 
kill some fowls which were offered to him. 
Between the Cape and St. Helena he was 
found dead in his cage ; and, on dissection, 
the coats of the stomach were discovered 
to be excoriated and perforated by worms. 
Nothing remained of the goat except one 
of the horns, every other part being dis- 
solved. 

It may here be mentioned, that, during 
a captivity of some months at Whidah, in 
the kingdom of Dahomey, on the coast 
of Africa, the author of this narrative had 
opportunities of observing snakes more 
than double the size of this one just de- 
scribed ; but he cannot venture to say 
whether or not they were of the same 
species, though he has no doubt of their 
being of the genus Boa. They killed their 
prey, however, precisely in a similar 
manner; and, from their superior bulk, 
were capable of swallowing animals much 
larger than goats or sheep. Governor Ab- 
son, who had for thirty-seven years resided 



TO CHINA. 297 

at Fort William, (one of the African Com- 
pany's settlements there,) described some 
desperate struggles which he had either 
seen, or had come to his knowledge, between 
the snakes and wild beasts, as well as 
the smaller cattle, in which the former 
were always victorious. A negro herds- 
man belonging to Mr. Abson (who after- 
wards limped for many years about the 
fort) had been seized by one of these 
monsters by the thigh ; but from his situa- 
tion in a wood, the serpent, in attempting 
to throw himself around him, got entangled 
with a tree; and the man, being thus pre- 
served from a state of compression which 
would have instantly rendered him quite 
pow r erless, had presence of mind enough 
to cut with a large knife, which he car- 
ried about with him, deep gashes in the 
neck and throat of his antagonist, thereby 
killing him, and disengaging himself from 
his alarming situation. He never after- 
wards, however, recovered the use of that 
limb, which had sustained considerable 
injury from his fangs, and the mere force 
of his jaws. 



298 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

These larger reptiles are seldom ob- 
served to be venomous, the smaller tribe 
being, in this respect, much more dan- 
gerous. 

In this country they had a smaller 
species of snake, called Daboa, which is 
the object of their worship and adoration. 
It is perfectly harmless, (to larger crea- 
tures,) and is tameable. Great attention 
is paid to any that are found, being- 
lodged in their temples, and fed by the 
priestesses with rats, mice, and smaller 
animals. People who are sick apply to 
it for relief; and should one of them 
happen to entwine itself around a preg- 
nant woman, it is considered the happiest 
possible omen for herself and child. In 
this state she proudly marches through 
the town, sanctified, as it were, by the 
attachment of the snake, which encircles 
her naked frame ; and followed by crowds, 
those who meet her falling on their knees, 
and snapping their fingers (the usual salu- 
tation) as she passes. 

The Ourang Outang, also a native of 
Borneo, is an animal remarkable not only 



TO CHINA* 299 

from being extremely rare, but as possess- 
ing, in many respects, a strong resemblance 
to man. What is technically denominated 
the cranium, is perfectly human in its ap- 
pearance ; the shape of the upper part of 
the head, the forehead, the eyes (which are 
dark and full), the eye-lashes, and, indeed, 
every thing relating to the eyes and ears, 
differing in no respect from man. The hair 
of his head, however, is merely the same 
which covers his body generally. The nose 
is very flat, — the distance between it and 
the mouth considerable ; the chin, and, in 
fact, the whole of the lower jaw, is very 
large, and his teeth, twenty-six in number, 
are strong. The lower part of his face is 
what may be termed an ugly, or caricature, 
likeness of the human countenance. The 
position of the scapulae, or shoulder blades, 
the general form of the shoulders and 
breasts, as well as the figure of the arms, 
the eJ bow-joint especially, and the hands, 
strongly continue the resemblance. The 
metacarpal, or that part of the hand imme- 
diately above the fingers, is somewhat elon- 
gated ; and, by the thumb being thrown a 



300 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

little higher up, nature seems to have 
adapted the hand to his mode of life, and 
given him the power of grasping more 
effectually the branches of trees. 

He is corpulent about the abdomen, or, 
in common phrase, rather pot-bellied, look- 
ing like one of those figures of Bacchus 
often seen riding on casks ; but whether 
this is his natural appearance when wild, or 
acquired since his introduction into genteel 
society, and by indulging in a high style of 
living, it is difficult to determine. 

His thighs and legs are short and bandy, 
the ankle and heel like the human ; but the 
fore part of the foot is composed of toes, 
as long and as pliable as his fingers, with a 
thumb, situated a little before the inner 
ankle ; this conformation enabling him to 
hold equally fast with his feet as with his 
hands. When he stands erect he is about 
three feet high, and he can walk, when led, 
like a child ; but his natural locomotion, 
when on a plane surface, is supporting 
himself along, at every step, by placing the 
knuckles of his hands upon the ground. 
All the fingers, both of the hands and feet s 



TO CHINA. 301 

have nails exactly like the human race, 
except the thumb of the foot which is 
without any. 

His natural food would appear to be all 
kinds of fruit and nuts ; but he eats biscuit, 
or any other sort of bread, and sometimes 
animal food. He will drink grog, or even 
spirits, if given to him; has been even 
known repeatedly to help himself in this 
way (and was actually turned out of the 
boatswain's mess, for taking more than 
his allowance) ; he was also taught to 
sip his tea or coffee, and, since his ar- 
rival in England, has discovered a taste 
for a pot of porter. His usual conduct 
is not mischievous and chattering, like 
that of monkeys in general ; but he has 
rather a grave and sedate character, and 
is much inclined to be social, and on good 
terms, with every body. He made no diffi- 
culty, however, when cold, or inclined to 
sleep, in supplying himself with any jacket 
he found hanging about, or in stealing a 
pillow from a hammock, in order to lie 
more soft and comfortably. 

Sometimes when teased by shewing 



•302 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

him something to eat, he would display 
in a very strong manner the human pas- 
sions, following the person whining and 
crying, throwing himself on his hack, 
and rolling about apparently in a great 
rage, attempting to bite those near him, 
and frequently lowering himself by a 
rope over the ship's side, as if pretending 
to drown himself; but, when he came near 
the water's edge, he always re-considered 
the matter, and came on board again. He 
would often rifle and examine the pockets 
of his friends in quest of nuts and biscuits, 
which they sometimes carried for him. He 
had a great antipathy to the smaller tribe of 
monkeys, and would throw them overboard 
if he could ; but in his general habits and 
disposition there is much docility and good 
nature, and, when not annoyed, he is ex- 
tremely inoffensive. He approaches, upon 
the whole, nearer to the human kind than 
any other animal. 

On the 27th May we anchored in Simon's 
Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope, from 
which we sailed again on the 11th of June, 
steering for St. Helena, where we arrived 



TO CHINA. 303 

on the 27th. The exterior of this island 
has much of that appearance which induced 
Madame Bertrand to term it the birth- 
place of the demon of Ennui ; but the in- 
terior is not destitute of beauties, for there 
are many very pleasing spots situated in its 
different valleys. 

One cannot help, in contemplating the 
calm tranquillity which reigns about Long- 
wood (now the peaceful habitation of the 
once mighty agitator of the world), being 
forcibly struck by the great mutability of 
human affairs. 

Buonaparte had for a considerable time 
past been very retired and difficult of 
access, but he was perfectly disposed to 
see Lord Amherst ; and on the day pre- 
vious to our departure his lordship rode 
out there, accompanied by the gentlemen 
of his suite. He was introduced by Ber- 
trand with not a little form, and had, as well 
as Mr. Ellis, a very long private conver- 
sation previous to the introduction of the 
other gentlemen, who in the mean time 
were attended by Generals Bertrand, Mon- 
tholon, and Gourgaud, in the next room. 



304 VOYAGE OF H. M. S. ALCESTE 

At last they also were ushered in ; and a ring 
having been formed by the grand Marshal 
round the principal personage of the group, 
Lord Amherst presented to him first Captain 
Maxwell, to whom he bowed very civilly, 
and said his name was not unknown to him ; 
observing, that he had commanded on an 
occasion where one of his frigates, La 
Pomone, was taken in the Mediterranean. 
" Vous Stiez tres ?nechant—Eh bien ! your 
government must not blame you for the 
loss of the Alceste, for you have taken one 
of my frigates." He said he was very 
happy to see young JerTery Amherst, and 
good-humouredly asked him what pre- 
sents he had brought with him from China, 
and so forth. 

The author of this narrative he interro- 
gated about the length of time he had 
served, and whether he had been wounded; 
repeating the last question in English. 

Proceeding next to Mr. Abel, (who, al- 
though the chief medical attendant of the 
embassy, was introduced as naturalist), he 
inquired if he belonged to the Royal Society, 
or any of the public institutions, or was a 



TO CHINA. 305 

candidate for that honour ; asking if he had 
been happy, in this voyage, in making any 
discoveries in natural history, which could 
add to our stock of knowledge on that sub- 
ject. Whether he knew Sir Joseph Banks, 
whose name, he said, had been a passport in 
France, and his wishes always attended to, 
even during war. 

Mr. Cooke's name induced him to ask 
if he was a descendant of the celebrated 
navigator ; observing, " You had a Cook, 
who was, indeed, a great man/' He 
requested to know, on Dr. Lynn being pre- 
sented, at what university he had studied. — 
" At Edinburgh" was the reply. — " Edin- 
boorg!" he repeated; and went on to inter- 
rogate him whether he was a Brunonian in 
practice ; or if he bled and gave as much 
mercury as our St. Helena doctors. 

Mr. Griffith, the chaplain, was next in- 
troduced, whom Buonaparte termed C An- 
monier, and pronouncing, also, in English, 
dair-gee-man. " Well, sir/' he continued, 
" have you found out what religion the Chi- 
nese profess V Mr. G. replied it was some- 
what difficult to say ; but it seemed a poly- 

x 



306 VOYAGE OF H. M.S. ALCESTE 

theism. Not appearing to understand the 
meaning of this word, spoken in English, 
Bertrand remarked, "Pluralite de Dieux." — 
" Ah ! pluralite de Dieux/' said he ; " do they 
believe in the immortality of the soul?" " I 
think they have some idea of a future state" 
was the reply. ** Well," said Buonaparte, 
" when you go home you must get a good 
living ; I wish you may be made a pre- 
bendary, sir." Proceeding to Mr. Hayne, he 
also questioned him in some general way ; 
and having now completed the circle, and 
said something to every body, he very 
courteously bowed to each of the party as 
they retired, who all felt much gratified at 
the opportunity of the interview. Although 
there was nothing descending in his manner, 
yet it was affable and polite ; and, whatever 
may be his general habit, he can behave 
himself very prettily if he pleases. He is 
by no means so corpulent as is usually re- 
presented, and his health appears to be 
excellent. Longwood, from its situation, 
ought certainly to be highly salubrious. 
On the 2d of July we sailed from St. Helena, 
touched at the Island of Ascension on 



TO CHINA. 



307 



the 7th, and, on the 12th, crossed the line, 
and got into our own hemisphere. Our 
passage homewards was extremely favour- 
able, on the 16th of August making the 
land, and the next morning brought us to 
Spithead, from whence we landed once 
more in our native isle; not merely with 
the common feeling of happiness which all 
mankind naturally enjoy on revisiting the 
land of their birth, but with those sensa- 
tions of pride and satisfaction with which 
every Briton may look round him, in his 
own country, after having seen all others. 



END OF THE NARRATIVE. 




x '■> 



APPENDIX. 



No. I. 

ON our arrival at Portsmouth, a court-martial (as is 
usual in the Navy) was held on board the Queen Char- 
lotte, to inquire into all the circumstances attending the 
loss of the ship, and into the conduct of the officers and 
men on that occasion ; composed of Captain Sir Archibald 
Dickson, Bart. President; Captains Alexander, Dacres, 
Meynell, and Hickey ; Moses Greatham, Esq. Judge 
Advocate ; when, after Captain Maxwell's interesting Nar- 
rative, detailing the facts relative thereto, having been read, 
and a number of witnesses examined on the various state- 
ments contained in it, the Court pronounced the following 
Sentence, after the usual preamble: — 

" Having maturely and deliberately weighed and consi- 
" dered the whole, the Court is of opinion that the loss 
" of his Majesty's late ship Alceste was caused by her 
" striking on a sunken rock, until then unknown, in the 
** Straits of Gaspar. That Captain Murray Maxwell, 
w previous to the circumstance, appeared to have con- 



310 APPENDIX. 

" ducted himself in the most zealous and officer-like man- 
" ner; and, after the ship struck, his coolness, self-col- 
w lection, and exertions, were highly conspicuous ; and 
" that every thing was done by him and his officers 
" within the power of man to execute, previous to the 
" loss of the ship, and afterwards to preserve the lives of 
" the Right Honourable Lord Amherst, his Majesty's 
" Embassador, and his suite, as well as those of the 
" ship's company, and to save her stores on that occa- 
" sion ; and therefore adjudge the said Captain Murray 
" Maxwell, his officers and men, to be most fully 

" ACQUITTED." 

The Court was extremely crowded, and there were 
present Lords Amherst and Colchester. The former, 
being examined by the Court, stated, " that he had se- 
" lected Captain Maxwell, on the occasion of the em- 
" bassy, from motives of personal friendship, as well as 
" from the high opinion he entertained of his professional 
" character, which opinion had been much increased by 
" the events of this voyage." 



APPENDIX. 311 



No. II. 

CHRONOLOGICAL LIST of the Kings of Lewchew, 
from the End of the Twelfth Century, to the Beginning 
of the last. 

First Year of 

their Reign. Lived. Reigned. 

NAMES OF KINGS. . _, ' — 

A. D. V ears. Years. 

Chun-tien 1187 72 51 

Chun-Machuny, son of Chun-tien .1238 64 11 

Ypen, son of Chun-Machuny 1249 — — 

Yn-tsou ., 1260 71 40 

Ta-tching, son of Yn-tsou 1 30 1 — 9 

Yn-tse, second son of Ta-tching. . 1309 — 5 

Yu-tching, fourth son of Yn-tse . . 1314 — 23 

Ly-Oucy, son of Yu-tching 1337 23 14 

Tsay-tou 1350 — 46 

Ou-ning, son of Tsay-tou 1396 — — 

Tse-chao, son of Ou-ning 1406 — 16 

Chang-pa-tchi, son of Tse-chao . . 1424 6S 18 
Chang-tchong, second son of 

Chang-pa-tchi 1440 54 — 

Chang-tse-ta, son of Chan-tchong . 1445 42 5 
Chang-kin-foo, paternal uncle of 

Chang-tse-ta 1450 52 4 

Chang-tai-kieou, brother of Chang- 
kin-foo 1454 46 7 



312 APPENDIX. 

Fir9t Year of 

their Reign. Lived. Reigned. 

NAMES OF KINGS. 

A. D. Years. Years. 

Chang-te, third son of Chang- 

ta-kieou 1461 29 9 

Chan-y-ven 1470 62 7 

Chang-tching, son of Chang-y-ven. . 1477 62 50 

Chang-tsing, third son of Chang- 
tching 1527 59 29 

Chang-y-ven, second son of Chang- 
tsing 1556 45 17 

Chang-yong, second son of Chang- 
y-ven 1573 35 16 

Chang-ning, grandson of Chang- 
tsing 1588 57 32 

Chang-fong, descendant of a bro- 
ther of Chang-yong 1621 51 20 

Chang-hien, third son of Chang-fong 1641 23 7 

Chang-tche, brother of Chang-hien 1648 40 21 

Chang-tching, son of Chang-hien . . 1669 65 41 

Chang-pen, grandson of Chang- 
tching 1710 34 3 

Chang-king, son of Chang-pen. ... 1713 — — 

The above list being copied, by Pere Gaubil, from the 

Chinese Report of Supoa-Koang, they have, in that 
translation from the original language, no doubt, acquired 
their present Chang-chong character of expression. 



APPENDIX. 



313 



No. III. 

NAMES and SITUATION of the Lewchew Islands, 
according to the same authority. 



To the North-eastward. 

Yon-chang-pou 

Fokou 

Yeoula 

Oa-kinou 

Kia-ki-luma 

Tatao (of considerable size) 

Ki-ki-ai 

To the South and Westward. 
Typin-chan, or Ma-kou-chan 
Ykima 
Yleang-pa 
Koulima 
Talama 
Mienna 
Oukomi 

Pat-chong- chan (Patchusan) 
Palouma 
Yeouni Koumi 
Kaumi 

Te-ke-tou-non 
Kauli-che-ma 
Ola-ke-se-kou 
Pa-tou-li-ma 



To the North and Westward. 

Gan-kini-chan 

Kichaa 

Ye-Kichan 

Lun-koan-chan (or Sulphur 

Island) 
Mat-che-chan, surrounded 

by five islets 
Another Mat-che-chan 
Koumi-chan 

To the Eastward, 
Kon-ta-kia 
Tsin-kinou 
Ysi 
Pama 

The whole situate at various dis- 
tances, extending from the main 
island towards Japan, Corea, and 
the islaud of Formosa, four only 
lying to the eastward. The Chi- 
nese have in this instance, as in the 
list of kings, applied their own 
abominable and harsh-sounding 
terms to the greater number of these 
islands, such as JLieou Kieou, Yon- 
chang-pou, Lun-Koan-chan, and 
Pat-chong-chun ; whilst all the 
native names, as Lewchew, Era- 
boo, Agtnhu, Ashumah, Talama, 
and so forth, are very soft and 
pleasiug to the ear. 



314 



APPENDIX. 



No. IV. 

MR. FISHER collected a few of the Lewchewan words, 
which may tend to give some idea of the sound of their 
language. 



Beard. 




Figoo. 


Button. 




Tama. 


Book. 




Shumutsee 


Bite. 




Quayon. 


Boat with Sails. 


Tima. 


Boat rowed with Oars. 


Chunee. 


Branches of Trees. 


Tanun. 


Comb. 




Sabachee. 


Chair. 




Ee. 


Cows. 




Ooshu. 


Cold. 




Fuisa. 


Cut. 




Chichau. 


Candle. 




Doe. 


Coffin. 




Quan. 


Come a 


shore. 


Chung. 


Cloth. 




Dasha. 


Colours 


(Ensign). 


Chuata. 


Coral. 




Ooru 





APPENDIX. 


Day. 




Okiou. 


Drink. 




Nummee. 


Dead. 




Sijoug. 


Eye. 




Me. 


Egg. 




Cooga. 


Earth. 




Sinna. 


Eat. 




Conun. 


Fingers. 




Ibec. 


Feet. 




Fisha. 


Fowls. 




Fuee. 


Fan. 




Ogee. 


Fan-ning. 




Ogee-shun 


Fish-iug. 




Juh-shun. 


Goat. 




Figa. 


Good. 




Yutissa. 


Grave (for dead). 


Haeka. 


Good-by ? 


or adieu. 


Wa-coutee. 


God. 




Joh. 


Hair. 




Carasee. 


Hat. 




Camuree. 


He. 




Adee. 


Handkerchief. 


Sagee. 


Horse. 




Mah. 


Head-pin 


with a star-head 


. Camesashee. 


Head-pin 


with a scoop-head. Usisashee. 


How do you do ? 


Uga-ma-bidda ? 


Ink. 




Tamagufing. 


Jar. 




Tusaadzee. 


I or me. 




Oau 


I will come again. 


Atucara. 


I do not i 


understand. 


Chi-carang. 


I thank you. 


Ca-fush. 



315 



316 


APPENDIX. 


I will go. 


Oa Atchung. 


1 will sing. 


Oa Utshang 


Knife. 


Sigu. 


Large. 


Ufisha. 


Moon. 


Stee. 


Musquito. 


Gadjang. 


Milk. 


Chee. 


Man. 


Ekegah. 


Nose. 


Hana. 


Nails. 


Cimee. 


Night. 


Masta. 


Not good. 


Wassa. 


No. 


Arang. 


Oil. 


Unda. 


Paper. 


Cabee. 


Potatoes (sweet) 


Moo. 


Physician or Surgeon. Isha. 


Priest. 


Bozy. 


Pig- 


Oa. 


Rain. 


Amuie. 


Riding. 


Ditaugin. 


Sun. 


Tida. 


Stars. 


Hushee 


Shoes. 


Saba. 


Stones. 


Ishee. 


Sit down. 


Iree. 


Ship (large). 


Ufubuny. 


Ship (small). 


Cubunee. 


Sleep. 


Ninjun. 


Sick. 


Yadon. 


Sailor. 


Biotee. 


Shell. 


Keh. 



APPENDIX, 



317 



Silk. 

Stone-mason. 

Square used by ditto. 

Serpent. 

Sea. 

Sand. 

Sash or Girdle, worn by 
the Lewchewans. 

Stop. 

Small. 

Teeth. 

Trowsers. 

Trees. 

Tobacco-pipe. 

To bring. 

Tea. 

Temple, or house of wor- 
ship in the garden, 
where the sick were. 

Umbrella. 

Very good. 

Water. 

Wind. 

Wood. 

Woman. 

You. 

You give me. 

Yes. 

You are a good fellow. 



Dunsy. 

Ichi-secu. 

Banjoganee 

Onegha. 

Ooshu. 

Sinna. 

Ubu. 

Ichuna. 

Coosa. 

Ha. 

Jacama. 
Ifcoojee. 
Tsidee. 
Toute-coo. 
Cha (Chinese). 



J ah Joh. 

Cassa. 

Churissa. 

Midzee 

Casechute. 

Kee. 

Inago. 

Ya. 

Yare Currau. 

Simung. 

Churamung. 



318 



APPENDIX. 



NUMERALS. 



1 Titsee. 




30 Sanjoo. 


2 Tatsee. 




3] Sanjoo-Titsee, &c. 


3 Metsee. 




40 Sinjoo. 


4 Yutsee. 




41 Sinjoo-Titsee, &c. 


5 Ititsee. 




50 Gunjoo. 


6 Mutsee. 




51 Gunjoo-Titsee, &c. 


7 Nanatsee. 




60 Docodoo. 


8 Jatsee. 




61 Docodoo-Titsee, &c. 


9 Cucunutsee. 




70 Stigoo. 


10 Too. 




71 Stigoo-Titsee, &c. 


11 Too-Titsee. 




80 Hacheegoo. 


12 Too-Tatsee, and so on to 


81 Hachegoo-Titsee, &c 


nineteen. 




90 Cunjoo. 


20 Nijoo. 




91 Cunjoo-Titsee, &c. 


21 Nijoo-Titsee, 


&c. 


100 Hiacoo. 



The numbers after each ten were always repeated in a 
manner similar to our own arithmetic. 



APPENDIX. 319 

No. V. 
THE FAREWELL. 



The following Lines written by Mr. Gillard, on leaving our hos- 
pitable friends at Grand Lewchew, speak not onlu his own, but 
the general feeling on that occasion. 



THE sails are set, — the anchor's weigh'd; 
Their seaward course the ships pursue ; 
And, friendly signs at parting made, 
We bid the land a last adieu ! 

From crowded boats, that grace our wake, 
Where all appear in vestments gay, 

Their mute " Farewell" the natives take, 
Yet, lingering, seem to court our stay. 

Slowly the vessels glide along, 

While groups from every village pour, 

And rushing downward join the throng 
Assembled on the sandy shore, 



320 APPENDIX. 

High on the arch that spans the tide, 
In faint perspective, crowds appear; 

While thousands line the river's side, 
And throng the boats that hither steer. 

From neighbouring heights, with verdure crown'd, 
The toiling hinds in wonder gaze ; 

And still-increasing groups are found 
At every spot the eye surveys. 

Yet all is as the night serene, 

And not a sound disturbs the air : 
So thronged, and yet so still, the scene, 

It might be deemed some spell was there : — 

Save that, along the crowded shore, 
Are raised a thousand waving hands, 

As, till the ships are seen no more, 

Each gazing friend unwearied stands : — 

Save too, as slow their boats return, 
The chiefs their parting signs renew, 

While, bending o'er the vessel's stern, 
We waft our silent — last — " Adieu !" 

Now, springing from the distant hills, 

The favouring breeze more freshly blows : 

And all the spreading canvass fills, 
While fainter every prospect grows. 



APPENDIX. 321 

The harbour dimly shews astern; 

In mist the curling bie^kers fade; — 
Nor aught can no%\ the eye discern 

W ithout the glass's friendly aid. 

The path beside the watering-place, 
Where branching pines adorn the hill, 

The assisted eye can faintly trace, 

And mark its numerous windings still. 

Oft on that spot have hours been past, 
Mid smiles that broken converse drew; 

And oft we deemed they fled too fast, 
When evening bade us say — Adieu ! 

There, too, the stone enclosure stands, 

Within whose high extensive walls 
The Pagan native lifts his hands, 

And on his wooden idol calls. 

Though Wisdom there has never shed 
A ray, to chase the mental night ; — 

Though sacred teacher ne'er has spread, 

The faith that springs from heavenly light;— 

Yet ye, who boast the Christian name, 
Blush at a deed that marks them well : — 

Thither they bore our sick and lame, 
And bade them in their temples dwell. 
Y 



322 APPENDIX. 

In yonder grove's encircling shade, 

Where Time will long the truth attest, — 

The last sad rites by strangers paid, — 
A youthful seaman's ashes rest. 

What though Oblivion o'er his name 
May spread her veil of deepest gloom, 

Full many a favorite child of Fame 
Would not disdain an equal tomb. 

Yet not alone the drooping frame, 

Or rites sepulchral, claimed their care ; 

With Nature's gifts they daily came, 
And bade the ships their bounties share. 

While friendship thus was shewn to all, 
Congenial minds attached a few ; 

And Memory oft will pleased recall 

The names of " Mad'ra" and " Ge-roo." 

Farewell, dear Isle ! — on thee may ne'er 
The breath of civil discord blow! 

Far from your shores be every fear, 
And far — oh ! far — the invading foe ! 

To distant climes our course we bend, 
Where Fashion boasts her splendid reign ; 

Where Science, Fame, and Wealth, attend, 
While Luxury revels in their train. 



APPENDIX. 323 

Meanwhile, ne'er 'mid your smiling scenes 
May Pride ami fierce Ambition spring ! 

Ne'er may they know what misery means, 
Which Vice and Dissipation bring ! 

Still on your plains may Plenty shine ! 

Still may your happiness increase ! 
And Friendship long your hearts entwine 

With Love, with Innocence, and Peace ! 

No mere ; — for now the freshening breeze 

Impels us swiftly o'er the deep : 
Your verdant shores no longer please, 

And faint appear your mountains steep. 

Their summits now are clothed in gray, 
And scarce the eye their place can tell ; 

And now they're melted quite away, — 

Once more, dear island, Fare thee well! 

G. 



THE END. 



sr^ 





Printed by W. CLOWES, Northumberland-court, Strand, London. 



